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1910s Queen's Road Central

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1910s Queen's Road Central

 

Where: The building on the right was home to the Mercantile Bank of India, It stood on the corner of Queen's Road Central (QRC), which heads off into the distance on the left, and Ice House Street, exiting to the right.

 

What: The ornately decorated sedan chair would be hired to carry brides on their wedding day - something like hiring a limousine today.

Bridal sedan chair

 

The small plate on the sedan chair has these Chinese characters:

Sedan chair sign

 

I asked my wife to read them out and she says that, reading from the right the first two characters look like "sun maan", meaning "new ten thousand" or "new many". Can anyone recognise the last character?

 

Who: Despite the special sedan chair, I don't think there's a bride in this scene. Some years ago I posted another picture of a bridal sedan chair:

c.1930 Carrying the bride

 

In the comments to that photo, Thomas noted we'd expect to see a band accompanying the sedan chair if it contained the bride, and that the carriers would show more signs of effort from carrying the extra weight. The same points apply to the current photo, so I believe the sedan chair in the current photo was empty.

 

When: The photographer used a wide aperture setting on the camera that took this photo, so the buildings in the background are out of focus. They're still recognisable though, and can be compared with other views of this scene.

4 & 6 QRC in the 1900s-1920s

 

The building at 4 QRC, on the corner of Duddell Street, was redeveloped between the time the first and last photos were taken. In the 1900s it was an ornate building on the same line as the other buildings along the road. The new building, completed in 1921, sits back from the road, probably to allow the road to be widened at some point in the future. We don't see number 4 in the main photo, but we can see two flagpoles that were part of it. They aren't set back from the road, so the the older building was still standing - meaning the main photo was taken before 1921.

The next clue comes from the policeman.

Policeman (BG008)

 

The design of Hong Kong's police uniforms changed around 1920, with the new uniforms having breast pockets on the front of the jacket, and five front buttons instead of six. This man is wearing the old style of uniform, pushing the photo's date back to before 1920.

Do we have any hat-historians reading, who can tell us if the other mens' hats help identify when the photo was taken?

Straw boater

 

Hat (BG008)

 

Even without a date from the hats, none of the Chinese men appear to have the pre-revolutionary shaved forehead and queue, which dates the photo to 1911 or later. I'll date it to the middle of the 1910s: c. 1915. Corrections welcome!

 

Gwulo photo ID: BG008

Further reading: There are lots more old Hong Kong photos and their stories in the new Gwulo book. The printer finished printing the pages and covers this week, so they just need to bind them into the finished book and the books can be delivered to me. If you'd like a copy, you can pre-order the book to take advantage of the pre-order special offers: discounted price, free shipping, and signed copies.

See more photos of the Mercantile Bank of India and 4 QRC, and more photos tagged: hat, police, or sedan chair


Pre-order the new Gwulo book for special pricing, free shipping, signed copies, and a free sample

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Take advantage of these pre-order offers as we get close to the launch of the new Volume 4: 

Special price

The book's list price will be HK$168, but regular readers can pre-order copies until 20 November at HK$150.

Please click a "Pre-order ..." link below to pre-order your book(s). Payment can be made online using a Paypal account or a credit card. Readers with a Hong Kong dollar bank account also have the option to pay by bank transfer, or HK$ cheque.

 

Free shipping

All deliveries to Hong Kong addresses are shipped free of charge.

Overseas orders are very welcome. If you live overseas, you can also get free shipping if you order two or more of Gwulo's books to be delivered to the same address: if you can combine an order with a friend, or buy an extra copy to give as a gift, shipping is free. (Copies of Volume 1,  Volume 2, and Volume 3 also count, so order two or more copies of any combination of Volumes 1, 2, 3, or 4 and you'll get free international shipping.)

Overseas orders for a single book pay the airmail postage. The cost of airmail varies by country, and will be shown to you before you confirm payment for your order.

 

Signed copies

If you'd like me to sign your copy to be signed, that's easy to arrange. When you've placed your order you'll receive an order confirmation email. Please reply to that with a message as follows:

If you'd like ...you send the reply ...and I'll write ...
Standard signaturePlease signWith best wishes,
David
Standard + namesPlease sign to Emma and JohnTo Emma and John,
with best wishes,
David
Custom messagePlease sign: A gift from Ann and CharlesA gift from Ann and Charles

 

Free sample

You've seen the cover...

Gwulo book - Volume 4 - front cover

... but if you'd like a look inside please download a PDF sample of pages from the book.

 

Q&A

Q. When will the orders be mailed out?

A. The original delivery date was 24 November, but printing has gone very smoothly and yesterday I heard the good news that the books will be delivered this Friday, 13 November. We'll get to work packing and mailing your orders as soon as the books arrive.

 

Q. So will they arrive in time for Christmas?

A.1 All Hong Kong orders will arrive before Christmas.

A.2 Most Overseas orders will arrive before Christmas. Though airmail was suspended for a while due to COVID-19, it has been restored to most countries, including Australia, UK, and USA. You can check if airmail is available to your country in the latest "Types of services currently available to overseas destinations" document on the Hongkong Post website.

For countries where airmail services are still suspended, e.g. Canada or New Zealand, your order will be sent by surface mail, typically taking 7-10 weeks to arrive.

 

Q. How can I add the other Volumes to my order?

A. Please click any of the links below to add earlier volumes to your order:

If you need to make any corrections, you can make changes to the content of your shopping cart. If all is correct, please go to the Checkout page to complete your order.


 

If anything isn't clear, or if you have any other questions, please let me know in the comments below.

Regards,

David

PS If you have friends who like old Hong Kong but may not be subscribers to Gwulo's newsletter, please could you let them know about this offer?

Gwulo book - Volume 4 - back cover

Photo (4): Hilltop houses

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The first extract from the new Gwulo book discovers that although this photo might look dull, its story has hidden treasure - literally!


 

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Our last photo from the album shows these two buildings on a hilltop. The site also has a grim story attached, but our album owner couldn’t have known that as the events didn’t take place until the 1940s.

Back to 1929, and where was this taken? We’ve obviously left mid-levels behind as we’re at the top of a hill. I drew a blank, and asked readers on the Gwulo website for their help. Regular contributor Moddsey pointed me to the hill between Wanchai Gap and Magazine Gap, and sure enough, it’s a match! Now that we know where to look, I can also see the hill back on pages four and seven, and in this 1930 panorama from Volume 1 (p. 90).

 

p024B.1-A135+6.newsletter.jpg

 

These buildings certainly had a fantastic view out over Hong Kong and Kowloon. Of course it also meant the buildings could be seen from most of Hong Kong’s built-up areas. That would be their downfall.

Skip ahead to 1942, not long after Hong Kong had surrendered to the Japanese. The Japanese started work on a grand war memorial that would commemorate their victory, and honour their war dead. They wanted a location that was impossible to miss, so this hilltop was perfect. Down came the houses, and up went a large granite platform in their place, with the new memorial on top.

But Japan’s fortunes soon changed, and the memorial took on a new, darker purpose. In post-war trials, Japanese Major Hirao Yoshio said that by 1943 they already knew Hong Kong would eventually be recaptured, and that the memorial was to be a tomb where all the Japanese would gather to die. Fortunately, Japan’s sudden surrender in 1945 meant those plans were never put into action.

After the war, Hong Kong wanted this glaring reminder of the recent miseries removed as quickly as possible. It took longer than expected, as the engineers found that the memorial was an almost solid block of reinforced concrete. Finally, in February 1947, the wait was over.

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The granite platform still survives, though. If you visit, you’ll quickly spot its buttresses, i.e. the three vertical lines in the photos above. Also keep an eye out for buried treasure: legend says a rare 500-year-old Japanese sword was buried there in 1943, and is still there today!


 

The new book, Volume 4 of Old Hong Kong Photos and The Tales They Tell, starts with a sequence of photos from a photo album dated to around 1929. None of the photos look very exciting at first glance, but dig a bit deeper and they all have their surprises.

If you pre-order the new book on or before 20 November, you can get special pricing, free shipping, signed copies, and a free sample.


 

Further reading:

Photo (10): Pedder Street

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Four buildings, a uniform, and a 'traffic stave' will pin down the date of the photo in this second extract from the new Gwulo book.


 

p046A-EE061.newsletter.jpg

 

This time we’re looking along Pedder Street in the opposite direction, across Des Voeux Road towards Queen’s Road. That means the Hong Kong Hotel is on the left, where The Landmark stands today.

We’re obviously several years later than the previous photo as Jardine House in the right foreground is all finished, and motor cars have appeared on the roads. The police have had to adapt to the changes: we can see there’s now a traffic policeman at the junction, standing with his back to us.

p046B-EE061.newsletter.jpg

 

He gives us two clues to help us date the photo. First, he’s wearing the ‘new’ uniform, introduced at the start of 1920. Second, he is holding a black and white striped stick he uses to direct the traffic. These sticks, known as ‘traffic staves’, were first introduced in 1922, so the photo can’t be older than that.

Four buildings will give us more clues. First are the three new buildings highlighted here.

p047A-EE061.newsletter.jpg

 

From left to right they’re the Asiatic Building (later renamed as Shell House), the China Building, and finally Pedder Building, still with us and closing in on its 100th birthday. All three buildings were completed in 1924. Two years later, on New Year’s Day of 1926, the nearest section of the Hong Kong Hotel was gutted by fire. This photo must have been taken between those events, likely in 1925.

Comparing the hotel with the previous photo, I noticed they’d changed their lamps. The 1908 lamps were very attractive, hanging from long cables to cast their light over the pavement.

p047B-A436.newsletter.jpg

 

The 1925 design kept the curved wall mounting, but used a plain, glass globe.

p047C.1-EE061.newsletter.jpg

 

I can’t be sure why they changed, but I guess that heavy, glass lamps hanging from long cables lost their appeal when the first typhoon struck!

This photo’s shoulder poles aren’t easy to spot because the people carrying them are so small – they’re probably just children. One carrier is at the very left edge of the photo and the other, even shorter but wearing the same style hat, is behind the rickshaw puller.

p047D-EE061.newsletter.jpg

 


 

This photo and its story come from the second section of Gwulo's new book, Volume 4 of Old Hong Kong Photos and The Tales They Tell. That section's photos all show people using shoulder poles to carry various loads. One discovery that surprised me is how all the heavy items delivered to the grand mansions on the Peak used to be carried up the steep hill paths on shoulder poles, and usually by women.

If you pre-order the new book on or before this Friday, 20 November, you can get special pricing, free shipping, signed copies, and a free sample.


 

Further reading:

Photo (16): Queen Victoria’s statue

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Simmering cauldrons, steam cranes, and a disappointing statue all make appearances in this third extract from the new Gwulo book.


 

p070A-NDA07.newsletter.jpg

 

Hurley stuck with the patriotic theme, choosing a photo of ‘The Queen Victoria Jubilee Monument’ that was taken from Prince’s Building. Queen Victoria had died the previous year, ending a 63-year reign that began just a few years before Hong Kong became a British colony.

The monument, shown in the left foreground, was built to celebrate the Queen’s Golden Jubilee of 1887. It consisted of a stone shelter, housing a ‘disappointing’ statue of a seated Queen Victoria. The disappointment was due to a muddle in communication: Hong Kong thought it had ordered a marble statue, but the sculptor understood it was to be cast in bronze. The mistake wasn’t discovered until it was too late, so a bronze statue is what was unveiled in 1896. Victoria then spent the next four decades sitting peacefully in regal splendour, until the Second World War brought major changes.

After the Japanese victory in Hong Kong in 1941, the statue was shipped off to Japan to be melted down for use in Japan’s war effort. The stone shelter remained, but now housed a copy of a proclamation given by Hong Kong’s new Japanese Governor. In 1945 the British returned and the proclamation was quickly removed, but Victoria was considered lost forever, until … in 1946 the statue was found in ‘the murky shadows of the Osaka Army Arsenal’. It was returned to Hong Kong, but Victoria hadn’t been treated gently during her visit to Japan, so the statue needed major restoration work. By 1952 the restoration was all done, but by then the shelter had already been demolished ‘to improve traffic conditions’. Eventually the statue was re-erected in the new Victoria Park in 1955, and that’s where you’ll still find it today.

The patch of land behind the statue was known as ‘Hong Kong’s finest site’ in the 1910s and 20s, but back in 1902 it was a builders’ yard. In addition to its various sheds and stores, there was also this steam crane, set on rails that ran out to the water’s edge.

p071A-NDA07.newsletter.jpg

 

1902 was a busy time for steam cranes, as there’s another one on a barge near the centre of this photo, and a third in the centre of the cofferdam in the previous photo.

The grand building behind the steam crane is the Hong Kong Club, and hidden behind it is the club’s annexe that we saw previously. Though the annexe was still under construction, the main building shown here was already five years old. It was a much larger building than the old clubhouse on Queen’s Road, but though the members appreciated the larger accommodation, they weren’t very impressed with the view from their new front door. If it was bad in 1902, it would get worse – by 1909 the builders’ yard had also acquired a brick oven and two simmering cauldrons of coal tar, leading local businessman Mr Murray Stewart to complain about it at a Legislative Council meeting.

The Government replied that nothing could be done – Hong Kong was, as always, short of land, and there just wasn’t anywhere else to put it. Fortunately the new Law Courts, the last of the yard’s big construction projects, were nearly finished. The yard would soon be cleared away, and after being turfed the ground looked much more respectable.

p072A-batgung.newsletter.jpg

 

Builders returned to the finest site in the early 1920s, but this time they met with no objections. They were working on Hong Kong’s new Cenotaph, which was completed and unveiled there in 1923. (See Volume 1, p. 28.)

 

‘The Kowloon Peninsula’

p073A-NDA03.newsletter.jpg

 

In Hurley’s next photo, shown here, he wants us to look at Kowloon. Instead, look at the bottom left corner, where there’s an oddly plain wall, part of Prince’s Building. I say odd because, as the Hong Kong Club building has shown, plain wasn’t the fashion in 1902. The explanation is that this was an interior wall, not meant to be seen. Prince’s Building was bigger than its neighbours, and was built in several phases. We’ve caught it at the end of phase one, getting a rare glimpse of the wall before it was hidden by the next round of building.

Looking right from the wall, in the centre foreground there’s a domed roof, but it isn’t Queen Victoria’s. Instead it crowned the Hong Kong and Shanghai Bank’s building. At far right there’s the Hong Kong Club again, then look across the harbour to see Kowloon and Tsim Sha Tsui (TST). When we saw this area in 1886, TST was almost empty (Volume 1, p. 79). Here in 1902 there are plenty of new buildings to be seen.

p073B.1-NDA03.newsletter.jpg

 

(A) and (C) are warehouses for the Kowloon Wharves, separated by (B), a boat basin for the Water Police. Next there’s open land (D), then more buildings on the south shore (E). For a closer look at Kowloon’s development, we’ll leave Hurley’s album and turn our attention to some newer photos instead.

 


 

This photo and its story come from the third section of Gwulo's new book, Volume 4 of Old Hong Kong Photos and The Tales They Tell. The third section uses photos from an album produced in 1902, giving us an excuse to visit several well-known Hong Kong sites and see how they looked at the start of the 20th century.

If you pre-order the new book on or before this Friday, 20 November, you can get special pricing, free shipping, signed copies, and a free sample.


 

Further reading:

Photo (19): Telephone House 

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The fourth and final extract from the new Gwulo book introduces Kowloon's first skyscraper.


 

p084A-A293G.newsletter.jpg

 

This photo looks south along Nathan Road from near the junction with Kimberley Road. It was taken in the 1950s, and captures a new generation of buildings that were starting to appear.

Back in Volume 2 (p. 82), we saw the three-storey buildings in the distance in the 1920s when they were bright and new. They’re still standing in the 1950s, but they’re definitely showing their age.

p084B.1-A293G.newsletter.jpg


The first of the post-war generation that replaced them was Telephone House, the tall building with the clock tower in the centre of the main photo. Here’s how the newspapers described it in 1948:

Kowloon will see the beginnings of its first skyscraper when the first piles are driven this week for a twelve storey office building at the corner of Nathan and Cameron roads.

Though it pales in comparison with today’s 108-storey International Commerce Centre, its twelve storeys were a big deal in 1948. The obvious news was the building’s technological advance over its lowly neighbours, and how it would steal the Peninsula’s crown to become Kowloon’s tallest building. Readers would also have recognised another message behind the new building: Hong Kong was back on its feet after the lean war years, and was starting to grow again.

Other new buildings soon followed, including the Princess Theatre in the foreground. It was playing the movie Salome, dating the photo to August 1953, when the theatre building was less than a year old.

p085A.1-A293G.newsletter.jpg


 
Kowloon’s redevelopment was working its way north along Nathan Road. If we turned 180 degrees we’d see another tall, new building.


 

This photo and its story come from the fourth section of Gwulo's new book, Volume 4 of Old Hong Kong Photos and The Tales They Tell. This final section shows photos of Kowloon taken in the 1910s through to the 1950s, using them to follow Kowloon's explosive development during those years.

Last call for pre-orders! The pre-order offers on the new book finish at midnight tonight: special pricing, free shipping, signed copies, and a free sample.


 

Further reading:

79 years ago: Hong Kong's wartime diaries

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December, 1941.

79 years ago tensions were high as war with Japan seemed inevitable. On December 8th, those fears were confirmed when Japanese planes attacked Kai Tak, and Japanese soldiers crossed the border into the New Territories. The fighting continued until the British surrendered on Christmas Day.

The end of the fighting marked the beginning of the Japanese occupation, a time of great hardship for Hong Kong's residents. They would have to endure for three years and eight months, until the Japanese surrendered in August 1945, and Hong Kong was liberated shortly afterwards.

 

What was it like?

Let the people who lived through these times tell you themselves.

We've collected several wartime diaries, and split them into their day-by-day accounts. Each day we send out an email message containing all the diary entries written on that day, 79 years ago.

 

How to sign up to receive the daily messages?

Please click here to subscribe.

You'll see another screen that asks for your email address. Enter your details, hit the "Subscribe" button, then each day you'll receive an email message with today's diary entries.

It's free of charge, your details stay private, and you can unsubscribe at any time.

 

What do the daily messages look like?

Here are sample extracts from the messages you'll receive:

  • 30 Nov 1941: "Topper says we are as near war now as we have ever been, that Japan with her militarist Govt. can't very well back down now."
     
  • 1 Dec 1941: "Government advising further evacuation.  Only hope seems to be that Japs now say they will keep on talks with USA in hope that USA will change viewpoint - that isn't thought likely."
     
  • 7 Dec 1941: "There must be something in the wind, G.H.Q. staff are preparing to move into Battle HQ, a huge underground structure just behind the Garrison Sgts. Mess."
Extract from Barbara Anslow's Diary

Extract from Barbara Anslow's Diary: "war had been declared"

  • 8 Dec 1941: "I started my birthday with a war. Kowloon bombed about 8AM."
     
  • 10 Dec 1941: "Sid has been wounded.  Bullet through shoulder.  He told Hospital to phone Mum at the Jockey Club and she went to see him."
     
  • 13 Dec 1941: "We hear rumours that the Mainland is being evacuated and that the Royal Scots, Middlesex Regt. and the Indian Regts. are fighting a rearguard action back to Kowloon."
     
  • 14 - 15 Dec 1941: "Raids most of daylight hours, and shelling day and night.
    Central Police Station bombed badly in afternoon, several killed.  Felt the concussion even in the tunnel."
     
  • 16 Dec 1941: "The 9.2 guns at Stanley and Mount Davis have been firing salvoes all day and all through the night, the noise is deafening. It keeps me awake most of the night so I was up at 4.30a.m. and got quite a bit of paperwork completed working behind a blacked out screen."
     
  • 17 Dec 1941: "What a contrast from a week ago. Plenty of signs of bombing and shelling. Damaged buildings, wrecked cars and lorries everywhere. The tramline wires are strewn across the road. Some dead bodies lie about on the roadways and not a living soul in sight."
     
  • 19 Dec 1941: "Hammond and Tuck stand guard outside while Kingsford and I and the Naval man enter the house. We find about 15 people wounded, mostly Naval men, some civilians, and two women, one a Chinese shot through the chest, the other a European was dead."
     
  • 21 Dec 1941: "The Canadians are fighting a losing battle against the Japs on Stanley Mound, and the neighbouring peaks. The Japs have superiority in numbers."
     
  • 23 Dec 1941: "We returned to the Exchange Building where Hammond, Edgar and I were joined by a Russian musician. He decided to take over the driving of the big Bedford van. We set off and ran into a series of shell explosions on the way. It was now obvious that the musician could not drive a wheelbarrow not to mind the Bedford, besides he was also shivering with fright. I tried to take over the wheel but he would not move over, and it was too dangerous to stop. However, we reached the Bakery which was up a very narrow passageway. He jammed the van in it so in the end I had to use the butt of my rifle to make him let go."
     
  • 24 Dec 1941: "8.50PM heard the rattle of tanks on Island Rd as they approached the village (Jap). 2 knocked out by anti-tank gun & hell broke loose. Everything opened up on them & the Jap troops with them who were urged on by peculiar cries from their Commander."
     
  • 25 Dec 1941: "While I was sitting on floor beside Sid, Mrs Johnson a friend who was helping the wounded, came over to us and said 'I have bad news for you - we've surrendered.' She was half-crying, and wouldn't look at us."
     
Notice from SCMP, 26 December 1941

Notice from SCMP, 26 December 1941

  • 26 Dec 1941: "Although capitulation is not so good it feels nice to know that the likelihood of being shot or blown apart is gone."
     
  • 8 Jan 1942: "Brushwood on hillsides [south] of Prison set alight today. Heard ammunition exploding."
     
  • 9 Jan 1942: Captain Tanaka, at the time Japanese head of communications, gives permission to Thomas Edgar and other bakers to start making bread for the hospitals. They open the Chinese-owned Green Dragon (Ching Loong) Bakery in Wanchai. They are also allowed to bake for the Allied civilians in the hotels and later at Stanley. Barbara Anslow's diary establishes that the bread - one slice for each internee - began to arrive on January 12.
     
  • 19 Jan 1942: "Fire opposite us in the night - very near thing.  There were just sooty sparks at first, but later the fire really got going.  All the gongs in the neighbourhood were beating as alarms, several huge tongues of fire blew over in our direction."
     
  • 21 Jan 1942: "In morning, we were given a quarter of an hour to pack and get out of the hotel, then marched down Des Voeux Road. Then boarded top-heavy Macau steamer and set out for Stanley.  It could have been lovely - such a beautiful day. Our boat too big to go right up to the jetty at Stanley, so we had to clamber over the side of the ferry on to the side of the junk - then jump into the body of the junk.  Poor Mrs Grant who weighed over 15 stone, cried from the side of the ferry that she just couldn't make the transfer, but somehow she did."

Please click here to subscribe, and start receiving daily diary entries by email.

 

What do previous subscribers to the Wartime Diaries say about them?

This is the 10th year we'll run this project. Here are comments from some of the readers who subscribed in previous years. They are located all around the world, and have many different reasons for subscribing:

  • My father and uncle were interned in Sham Shui Po and Argyle Street camps. My grandfather, aunt and cousin were interned in Stanley camp. I have a keen interest in the history of that time.
    Once you know HK it’s fascinating to understand the flow of the battle for Hong Kong and the aftermath that extended into 3 years and 8 months of incarceration for foreign nationals of the allied cause and a very tough life for others that had to exist in perilous times with dwindling food and an oppressive occupying force.
    Glenn Smith

  • I read the emails practically daily. The suspense of what would happen and what would be shown tomorrow keeps my interest in reading the "once a day reports" everyday.
    Tai Hang Wong, Mississauga, Canada.

  • I rarely miss a day and the reason is I think is partly the scale of the information and partly the serial format. Because the description are, by definition, excerpts, they are quick to read. By reading them regularly, I have become invested in the characters.
    What has fascinated me most I think is the information that the internees are getting in camp. Some seems speculative, but they seem to be getting some reasonably accurate information on the Solomon and Libyan Campaigns. Their Eastern Front info seems a little more vague.  I like the varying sources and perspectives in the short format.
    Neil Williams

  • What keeps me interested in reading the daily diary entries is that they give me what feels like an authentic connection with the everyday lives of the people even though it feels like reading a series of telegrams. Both of my parents grew up in Hong Kong and Macau in the 20s and 30s and had already arrived in Australia while many of their school friends (Zimmern, Broadbridge, Hunt) remained in Hong Kong. These entries give me some insight into their lives during the occupation.
    The entries have acted as prompts to research diverse aspects of the history of the occupation. For example mention of hidden wireless receivers had me researching stories and more background about the people, the radios, the programs and the punishments if discovered. I am fascinated by how much information managed to flow into and around the community, especially about the progress of the war.
    Stephen Rapley, Sydney

  • My father was in Hong Kong with the RN in 1945. Myself and my dad walked around Hong Kong swapping tales for years before he died, so your reports (especially of after liberation) are of significant importance and interest to me. I relate to them in many ways. It helps me retain the link to that era. One that is personally important to me.
    Les Bird

  • I read most days, mainly from an interest in the life of Barbara and her family and the background extracts from other sources. It is different from reading a book on the subject - the emails are interesting personal experiences which may be unique to the authors.
    Jeff
  • I read the daily messages because I was born during the war in Macau where my British parents had taken refuge.  The rest of the relatives were interned in Stanley.
    Antoinette Gordon, Los Angeles

  • I read the emails every day & daily if I am at home or as soon as possible. I love military history, especially WW2, & even more so about Hong Kong having lived there twice & my father, my wife & I having all served there in the Army.
    The once a day format is clever because it takes the pace & rhythm of what it was like for those who went through it. It makes it easier to imagine what it must have been like for the captives living with the day to day of not knowing what will happen. You also can’t cheat & find out what happened out of sequence.
    It is a wonderful confirmation of the endurance & determination of people to never give up. 
    GHW

  • I read every single one. I’m interested because I was stationed in Hong Kong in 1958/60 during Regular Army Service. The best experience of my life, bar none. What a place !
    I enjoy the “once a day” format, and the messages open your eyes to things that were happening on the other side of the world during Japanese occupation and how human behaviour can “seesaw”.
    Colin Cobb

  • I read them most days, and I look out for any mentions of Hong Kong Police. Reading these emails helps the reader to obtain a greater sense of vicarious experience.
    Andrew Hill

  • I think the daily email format is a great idea, at least I could keep reading. This part of history is something we shouldnt forget.
    Jason Ng from Hong Kong, now at Birmingham 

  • I’m reading them almost daily because I find it interesting to read diary entries from times long ago. Sometime when I’m short in time I spare them for the weekend and read all of them in a row. I personally like more to spend a minute a day in the past than to read a book that would take hours.
    Klaus Liphard

  • I read them most days, as I like to be reminded of what my family went through there. The daily email is not as daunting or time consuming as reading a book - it is so interesting and well worth the few moments to read it daily.
    Marjorie Elston, Canada

 

Thank you!

Thank you to the subscribers for letting me post their feedback. Also thanks to everyone who has contributed diary material to this project and helped with typing and posting the material. Finally, special thanks to Alison, Barbara, Brian, and Tony, who got us started:

 

Are there more diaries out there?

I hope we can add more diaries, to get a broader range of viewpoints. If you know anyone who has family diaries covering Hong Kong between 1941-1945, please could you ask if they are willing to share them with us?

Thanks & regards,

David

PS That subscription link one last time - please click here to subscribe.

New on Gwulo: 2020, week 50

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I've listed some of the recent highlights below, but you can visit the What's New page at any time to see all the latest additions to the site.

 

General

 


 

Places

 


 

Book news

The pre-launch offer ended with 247 copies of the new Gwulo book sold, so a big thank you to everyone who ordered. I'm pleased to see that's around 10% more than we sold in the pre-launch for Volume 3, which is reassuring. (Pre-launch sales of Volume 3 were less than Volume 2, which were less than Volume 1, which meant I was worried that interest in this type of book had dried up.)

Worldwide

The orders came from all around the world - as well as Hong Kong we've sent books to Australia, Canada, Finland, France, Germany, Italy, Japan, Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, Singapore, Sweden, Switzerland, UK, and USA.

Airmail services to Canada and New Zealand are still suspended, but books have already reached most of the other countries. One record-breaker reached New Jersey in the USA just seven days after we sent it!

Reviews

If you've enjoyed the latest book's photos and stories, I'll be very grateful if you could review it, to help introduce it to new readers. Volume 4's page on Goodreads doesn't have any reviews yet, so it'll be great if you could give it a star rating and / or a short review. Or if you're in a club whose members are interested in Hong Kong, and that has a newsletter or an internet discussion group, a mention there would be appreciated.

Bookshops

After we'd sent out all the pre-launch orders we switched to delivering books to local bookshops. Gwulo's books are now on the shelves at:

 

Thanks to Bleak House Books for this interview:

 

And thanks to Bookazine for adding the new book to their Top 10:

Bookazine Top 10

 


 

People

 


 

Photos

Regular contributor Andrew Suddaby has posted more photos from his visit to Hong Kong in 1981. I'll post a few samples below, then you can see all the photos in his 1981 gallery.

Yu Yat Kee Watch Co.
Yu Yat Kee Watch Co., by Andrew Suddaby

 

Children's talent contest.
Children's talent contest., by Andrew Suddaby

 

Food Street b.
Food Street b., by Andrew Suddaby

 

Macao hydrofoil ticket.
Macao hydrofoil ticket., by Andrew Suddaby

 

Exciting things to do in Hong Kong a.jpg
Exciting things to do in Hong Kong a.jpg, by Andrew Suddaby

 

Temple Street Night Market sea food b.
Temple Street Night Market sea food b., by Andrew Suddaby

 

Temple Street Night Market lantern rentals.
Temple Street Night Market lantern rentals., by Andrew Suddaby

 

Boy with his new toy
Boy with his new toy, by Andrew Suddaby

 

Poor Man's Nightclub e
Poor Man's Nightclub e, by Andrew Suddaby

 


Mike asks if anyone can identify the date / location / people / occasion in these family photos:

1940s (1).jpg
1940s (1).jpg, by King's Studio - family photo album

 

1940s (1.1).jpg
1940s (1.1).jpg, by King's Studio - family photo album

 


 

Showing Wan Chai  1890's (Looking West).jpg
Showing Wan Chai 1890's (Looking West).jpg, by danielwettling

 

Queens Own 7th Hussars 1954-1957
Queens Own 7th Hussars 1954-1957, by W G Cully

 

尖沙嘴消防局 Tsim Sha Tsui Fire Station 1947
尖沙嘴消防局 Tsim Sha Tsui Fire Station 1947, by richardwonghkbook4

 

1963 Chinese University
1963 Chinese University, by eternal1966e

 

Arthur James Rumjahn2.jpg
Arthur James Rumjahn2.jpg, by weightman family

 

Barker Road Houses 1930(?)
Barker Road Houses 1930(?), by Klaus

 

1950s Middle Road Children's Playground
1950s Middle Road Children's Playground, by Moddsey

 

1954 Nathan Road
1954 Nathan Road, by Eternal1966

 

1954 Rose Hotel
1954 Rose Hotel, by Eternal1966

 

1954 Cameron Road
1954 Cameron Road, by Eternal1966

 

1930s Mount Austin (Peak) Road
1930s Mount Austin (Peak) Road, by Eternal1966

 

1954 Kam Tin Road
1954 Kam Tin Road, by Eternal1966

 

1972 TST Trash truck
1972 TST Trash truck, by Eternal1966

 

1927 Peninsula Hotel
1927 Peninsula Hotel, by Moddsey

 

1950s Kwun Tong Road
1950s Kwun Tong Road, by Moddsey

 

LEE, YeChor
LEE, YeChor, by Dewson family photos

 

1962 Luard Road
1962 Luard Road, by eternal66a

 

Cable & Wireless in Hong Kong
Cable & Wireless in Hong Kong, by Cable & Wireless Communications

 

General Post Office
General Post Office , by flyingpeter77

 


Click to see all recently added photos.


Crowd in the Happy Valley Grandstand

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Crowd in the Happy Valley Grandstand

Where: The note on the back of the photo reads "HK, Racecourse", so we're looking at the grandstand in Happy Valley.

 

Who: The star of the scene is this man in the centre, as all heads are turned towards him.

The star of the scene

 

He looks to be saluting, or perhaps raising his hat to, the smiling lady on the right.

I note that his hat has a very wide top to it.

Sailor?

 

There are some soldiers in the crowd, and their caps also have a large top, but their uniforms are a lighter colour.

Soldiers in the grand stand

 

Perhaps the darker uniform on the man in the foreground means he is a sailor?

Does anyone recognise any of the other faces in the crowd?

People at the races

 

Several of the men in the foreground are wearing badges on their lapels, so I guess they are members or perhaps stewards of the Jockey Club.

Jockey Club badges?

 

I also wonder who owned this photo. It isn't a classic tourist's view of Happy Valley, so it was likely taken to capture the crowd. Was the photo's owner one of the people in this scene? I bought it recently from an eBay seller in Albuquerque, New Mexico, so the other mystery is how it ended up there!

 

What: The crowd are gathered in the grandstand, and the stables building is just visible to the left.

Crowd in the Happy Valley Grandstand

 

Recently I've seen those two buildings in another photo.

Racing at Happy Valley

 

It was taken in 1902, and appears in Volume 4 of the Gwulo books. Back in 1902, the grandstand had a simple, narrow staircase at the front of the building, with all the spectators standing on the upper level under the roof. Here's another view of that older staircase from 1897. It was in the centre, with stairs running down to either side.

The Grand Stand

 

But by the time the main photo was taken, wide steps extending across the full width of the grandstand have been added, making room for a much larger group of spectators.

Crowd in the Happy Valley Grandstand

 

When: The women in the scene wear the large hats that were fashionable in the Edwardian era (1901-1910), and for a few years afterwards.

Lady's hat

 

The soldiers' cap badges could also help, as if we knew their regiment we could cross-reference that with which years they were in Hong Kong. Unfortunately they are too far away to see the badges clearly.

Then if we knew when those wide steps were built in front of the grandstand, that would help narrow down the possible dates for the photo. The Annual Reports of the Public Works Department (PWD) often mention construction projects so I turned to them. We know the wide steps were built after the 1902 photo was taken, and that the fashions suggest a date around 1910, so I looked through the Annual Reports from 1902 until 1918. In the 1911 report it mentioned "Alteration to Jockey Club’s premises, Happy Valley" as one of the "Principal Works of a Private nature" that had started that year. It wasn't mentioned in any of the following years' reports, but as a straightforward project it shouldn't have taken long to complete.

I can't be 100% sure the PWD report is referring to these steps, but it seems to fit, so I'll guess 1912 as the year the photo was taken. Please leave a comment below if you spot any clues to help pinpoint the date more accurately.

 

Gwulo photo ID: A620

Further reading:

See photo timelines of...

Then for more old Hong Kong photos and their stories, please see Gwulo's books.

New on Gwulo: 2020, week 52

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This is the last "New on Gwulo" roundup for 2020, but I've got one more newsletter to send out before the end of the year. Until then I hope you're enjoying the holiday break, even if so many of the usual Christmas activities are on hold this year.

Best wishes,

David

 

General

  • We first heard about this Austin 7 last year, when its current owner was trying to learn more about its time in Hong Kong (the car started life in the UK, spent several years in Hong Kong and then the USA, and is now back in the UK). Here's the full story, which ends with the car looking very smart after its recent restoration:
    Austin 7 Car used in Hong Kong  (1960's)   Restored (1)
    Austin 7 Car used in Hong Kong (1960's) Restored (1), by Chinarail

     
  • H Lo has found three old pavilions in the undergrowth on the hillside above the old Tiger Balm Gardens (see the pages for the upper, middle, and lower pavilions). Does anyone remember visiting them and / or have close-up photos of them when they were in better shape?
    IMG_20201218_TaiHangPavilion1.jpg
    IMG_20201218_TaiHangPavilion1.jpg, by H.Lo

 

 


 

Places

 


 

Book news

Good and bad news for UK readers. The bad news is that airmail services from HK to UK have been suspended again, BUT ... the new Volume 4 is now in stock at Amazon UK(affiliate link), so that's the quickest way to order a copy at the moment.

In other good news, we passed a happy milestone just before Christmas, with the 4,000th Gwulo book sold. Most of the recent sales have been of the new Volume 4, but it's been great to see so many orders for the full set of all four volumes - I guess they have been given as Christmas gifts, and I hope they were well received.

Yesterday the first rating for Volume 4 appeared on Goodreads.com, with a generous five star rating from reader Jeannie Hau. Thanks Jeannie!

Then some other good pre-Christmas news was the arrival of Patricia's new book, Women, Crime and the Courts, Hong Kong 1841-1941, from the publisher Blacksmith Books. Copies are available to order direct from Gwulo.

Delivery of "Women, Crime and the Courts"

 


 

People

 


 

Photos

Hong Kong and Shanghai bank ready for demolition
Hong Kong and Shanghai bank ready for demolition, by Andrew Suddaby

 

Tai Pak g.
Tai Pak g., by Andrew Suddaby

 

1961 Salisbury Road
1961 Salisbury Road, by eternal66a

 

1933 Salisbury Road
1933 Salisbury Road, by lsecond975

 

1930s Claremont Hotel
1930s Claremont Hotel, by lsecond975

 

1930 Water Rationing - Connaught Road Central
1930 Water Rationing - Connaught Road Central, by Eternal1966

 

Queen's Road in Central
Queen's Road in Central, by danielwettling

 

1920s Hau Wong Temple, Kowloon City
1920s Hau Wong Temple, Kowloon City, by Moddsey

 

1950s Nathan Road
1950s Nathan Road, by Denny Mingus

 

1950s Nathan Road
1950s Nathan Road, by Denny Mingus

 

location of Scouts Jamboree c 1958
location of Scouts Jamboree c 1958 , by By Not given [Public domain]

 

1908 time ball tower.jpeg
1908 time ball tower.jpeg, by wcfreeman

 

1961 Causeway Bay Typhoon Shelter
1961 Causeway Bay Typhoon Shelter, by Eternal1966

 

Hong Kong Travel Association's first travel poster.
Hong Kong Travel Association's first travel poster., by IDJ

 

09D6D023-A804-4A80-870E-E097E0444A23.jpeg
What year was this photo taken?, by pyktsang

 

1930s Tim Nam Teahouse
1930s Tim Nam Teahouse, by eternal1966e

 

1962 Kowloon View
1962 Kowloon View, by Eternal1966

 

1960 Middle Road
1960 Middle Road, by Eternal1966

 

Inscription PB1 Jardines catchwater.
Inscription PB1 Jardines catchwater., by Andrew Suddaby

 

Tramways Student ID E.jpg
Tramways Student ID E.jpg, by Richard Ling

 

1960s Nathan Road
1960s Nathan Road , by Eternal1966

 

1960s Argyle Street
1960s Argyle Street, by Eternal1966

 

W Redwood inscription.jpg
W Redwood inscription.jpg, by Jill

 

HSBC Bank at Nathan Road and Argyle Street (c.1950s)
HSBC Bank at Nathan Road and Argyle Street (c.1950s), by OldTimer

 

Cheung Chau residence, summer 1926
Cheung Chau residence, summer 1926, by Dr. Stephen V Crowder

 

1963 Nathan Road
1963 Nathan Road, by Eternal1966

 

1954 Junction of Nathan Road and Public Square Street
1954 Junction of Nathan Road and Public Square Street, by Eternal1966

 

1960 Royal Mail Boat
1960 Royal Mail Boat, by eternal1966e

 


Click to see all recently added photos.

Birthday Buildings in 2020

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We'll all be happy to see the end of 2020, but there's one last task I need to do - prepare this year's lists of birthday buildings:



50-year-old buildings:

You know it wasn't a very exciting year for new buildings when the highlight is a multi-storey car park ...

Hong Kong  -   Leaving   -   24 June 1971
Hong Kong - Leaving - 24 June 1971, by Ladycliff

 

Or maybe 1970 had a more interesting building that just hasn't been added to Gwulo yet? If you know of any, please create a page for them, and they'll automatically be added to the list above.

 



75-year-old buildings:

The places on this list frame the main event of 1945, the Japanese surrender and the end of the war.

The two projects built by the Japanese armed forces in Hong Kong date to the start of the year. Up on a hill overlooking Starling Inlet, they built a battery as part of a series of defences against any Allied landing on the nearby beaches. The Japanese pillboxes they built around the battery above Shan Tsui village still exist, and are described in Tymon Mellor's report of his visit to the site.

Shau Tau Battery - Pillbox 4
Shau Tau Battery - Pillbox 4, by Tymon

 

Meanwhile on Lamma Island, we can see the tunnels the Japanese excavated. The tunnels housed small boats that were intended for suicide attacks on Allied ships approaching Hong Kong. You can read more about the tunnels and boats, and they're easy to visit next time you're on Lamma.

"Kamikaze" tunnel, Lamma
View from the back of a "Kamikaze" tunnel on Lamma island

 

Hiram's Highway, the first road to Sai Kung, was built at the end of the year. Although that was after the Japanese surrender, the Japanese were also involved with this project, but this time as POW labourers under the supervision of a team of British Marine Commandos. Bill Lake has a good write-up on who built Hiram's Highway, and how it got its unusual name.

Hiram's Highway Stone
Hiram's Highway Stone, by HK Bill

 



100-year-old buildings

The old fire station in Tsim Sha Tsui is the most photogenic of the centenarians, having been restored as part of the 1881 Heritage project.

Re: Former Kowloon Terminus Fire Station
Re: Former Kowloon Terminus Fire Station, by moddsey

 

But a much plainer building caught my attention, the No.1 Fresh Water Supply Reservoir at Magazine Gap Road. That's because another reservoir made the news this week, the old service reservoir on Bishop Hill in Kowloon, built in the 1900s. It was no longer in use and as it was just described as a "water tank" it was scheduled to be demolished, but once the demolition started and people saw inside they realised it had a real hidden beauty - see the photos on the HKFP website. A flurry of posts of photos like those to social media led to the demolition being halted and then cancelled.

The reservoir at Magazine Gap Road is around 15 years younger than the one at Bishop Hill, but I wonder if it used the same design?

 



125-year-old buildings

Another building with a watery past, this small building is all that's left of the old Yau Ma Tei Pumping Station.

Yau Ma Tei Pumping Station - Still there...!
Yau Ma Tei Pumping Station - Still there...!, by The National Archives UK

 

Yau Ma Tei Pumping Station 2016.jpg
Yau Ma Tei Pumping Station 2016.jpg, by LizB

 

It's interesting to see it on the 1896 map of the area, when it had a sea-view to the front, and two ginger factories at the rear. I find the smell of ginger is very refreshing, but might have a different opinion if I had to work next to a ginger factory every day!

 



150-year-old buildings

Sorry, we don't have any matching Places for this year.

Nothing to report here - do you know of any buildings from 1870 that are still standing?

 



175-year-old buildings

Hurrah! We had the first 175-year-old entry on the list last year, though it was a bit of a stretch as it was just an old boundary marker stone. But this year we have a proper building, the chapel in the Hong Kong Cemetery, believed to be the oldest surviving colonial building in Hong Kong.

Hong Kong Cemetery 1890.jpg
Hong Kong Cemetery 1890.jpg, by Jennifer Lang

 

IMG_7745.JPG
IMG_7745.JPG, by Jennifer Lang

 



Find out more ...

If you'd like to see what information and photos we have for any of the buildings shown above, just click on the blue building name in the list. You can also click on any photo to see a larger version you can zoom in to. And if you'd like to see more birthday buildings, here are the lists for 2019.

 

... or tell us more

If you know of any birthday buildings that we're missing, please go ahead and make a Place page for them. They will automatically be added to the correct list. And of course if you can add any memories, facts or photos, they're always very welcome. Please click to leave a comment, or upload a photo.


 

That wraps up Gwulo's newsletters for the year. Let me wish you all the best for the new year ahead, and let's hope that the vaccines work well so we can all put Covid-19 behind us.

Best regards, David

Hong Kong’s criminal women

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With the recent publication of Women, Crime and the Courts: Hong Kong 1841-1941, I hoped author Patricia O’Sullivan would share some of the book’s themes and stories with us, and also tell us a bit about how the book came to be. Patricia kindly agreed, giving us Gwulo’s first newsletter for 2021:

How it all began … 

I suppose that it was the cantankerous Amy Gillan that started it all. Not one of the gory chopper murderers or callous kidnappers, but a disturbed Western woman bawling out ‘doctored’ hymns and shooting off obscene poison pen letters that became my Case No. 1. 

1907-09-20 HKT p.2 Amy Gillan
1907-09-20 Hongkong Telegraph, page 2

 

I had been following the Hong Kong Police career of one of my grandfather’s cousins, Edmund O’Sullivan. In 1895, he had swapped the hard but not unrewarding life of a dairy farmer in rural Ireland for the uncertainties of the policeman’s lot ‘out East’. In his 19-year career as a detective, Edmund saw more than his share of excitement, including a political murder, the gory ‘Body in a Trunk’ case, and a tense high-stakes bank fraud. There was, perhaps, a sense that his investigation and arrest of this ‘neighbour-from-hell’ was in the way of light relief for him, even if she did possess an unlicensed loaded revolver. 

One of the things that attracted me to this apparently trivial case is that the accounts gives a glimpse of the way that ordinary, working class European women lived. It had puzzled me how little I had been able to find of this in the available histories of Hong Kong. In the UK, by the 1970s and 80s, social history had become so mainstream that it was on school exam syllabi, and we learnt about conditions in 1850s woollen mills along with the foreign policy of the Louis XIV of France. But in Hong Kong, it would seem as if the problems of telling the story of this unique city, where ethnicities and cultures were both intertwined and yet rigorously divided, was so great that most could attempt to tell only a structural history. This is not to ignore the wonderful world of such as Carl Smith, Susanna Hoe and others, but such writers really are the beacon exceptions.

 

Women in the papers and the courts

The years I’d spent scouring old Hong Kong newspapers as I researched my previous book had given me the start of a collection of cases in which women, both Chinese and Western, stood before the magistrates. So I looked at these again, wondering if they would give a similar window into the lives of ordinary people? I suppose it was inevitable that I became as interested in the stories being told as what the inferences I could draw about the world of these long-gone people. Well, who can resist a good crime story? And would I find juicy murder along the way?

Although I was familiar with stories of the cities of Victorian England and Scotland, where between 25% and 37% of defendants at Magistrates’ courts and equivalent were women, I knew enough of Hong Kong not to expect this. Yet I started reading the Police Intelligence columns of the 19th century papers wondering how I could identify male and female names amongst those reported, only to realise that so rare was the latter, that her gender was always noted by the writer. This was confirmed by the crime and prison statistics produced by the Administration and sent to London in the annual Blue Books. Just 5% or so of those on the charge sheets that century were women, and the proportion did not increase to any great degree in the period before the Japanese occupation of the colony in 1941.

It was, generally, only the magistrate who adjudicated on women’s fate in the Hong Kong courts. The total numbers of defendants sent to the Criminal Sessions was never high, especially in the nineteenth century, and here a woman’s appearance was a rear rarity. Not surprisingly, therefore, most of the ‘cases’ I had were merely one or two lines: reporting the possession of non-government opium and a fine of one dollar, or an arrest for hawking without a licence, ‘illegal possession’ of a few lumps of coal or tying up a sampan in a restricted part of the harbour. In amongst these petty infractions, though, were crimes that called out for sanctions beyond a few days in gaol or a paltry fine. And of those with female defendants, not a few brought the colonial criminal justice system into collision with centuries-old customs and social structures.

 

Kidnapping, a profitable trade

These practices prescribed that the relationship between people overruled individual autonomy, whether that was between father/son; mistress/mui tsai; master/servant. But as with customary behaviour world-wide, the checks upon them supplied by the culture around were often lost when transported to a slightly different situation. Thus those who wanted to profit from the power they could wield over others saw nothing wrong in abducting a child from her parents and selling her, though intermediaries, into prostitution or servitude in Singapore, California, Straits Settlements or Hong Kong. Such kidnapping and trading of children (boys and girls) and young women was a common occurrence. And when the object was female, women were frequently closely involved. Indeed, for them it was an opportunity to make sums of money unavailable otherwise. It seems probable that only a small proportion of such abductions came to the attention of the law, and when they did, the trail of evidence was often obscure. But such cases at least resulted in the liberation of the captive child or woman. A brief report in the Daily Press for 14th August 1875 is typical of this and the limited success of such an arrest.

 

Yun Ayee’s dream of freedom

Untangling the somewhat confused story, it appears that Police Inspector John Lee, attached to the Lock Hospital as Inspector for Brothels, had been ‘tipped off’. His informant told him that a married woman, Lai Acheong, had returned to the colony – perhaps from Macao or Canton, with two young women, apparently still in their teens, and they were now in her house. Perhaps neighbours also told him that the girls seemed to be making some disturbance. He spoke at length to both young women and one, Yun Ayee, found the courage to tell the policeman her story. She had worked (outside Hong Kong) as a prostitute for four years, although she had previously lived in the colony since she was nine years old. Now she had enough of that life and wanted to be a free woman. She thought she had certainly served her time to her mistress. But then the mistress had sold her to a friend, Lai Acheong, who, with another woman, Mah Achee, had been visiting. These two women had taken her and the other girl back to Hong Kong with them.

1875-08-14 HKDP p.2 Yun Ayee
1875-08-14 Hong Kong Daily Press, page 2

 

When they arrived in Lai’s house they had wanted to go out, but were forbidden. In fact, they were not even allowed to look out of the window. A few days earlier, their kidnappers told them they would send them both to Singapore. The women did not say what for, but the girls could guess. Yun repeated to Insp. Lee that she wanted to be free, but how could she, now that this woman had paid her former mistress for her? She had no way of getting hold of money to pay off the bond! She was vastly surprised, therefore, when the inspector told her that in Hong Kong she could be a free woman without any payment being made. He would arrest Lai Acheong and perhaps the other woman, and after that, they would both be free.

After listening to the girls, the policeman acted quickly, before any attempt could be made to smuggle the girls onto a Singapore-bound vessel. He arrested only Lai Acheong, but later that day all four women appeared at the magistrate’s court. However, after Insp. Lee’s statement was made, the newspaper records that there was “a deal of conflicting evidence,” and the case was remanded to the next morning. At that hearing, magistrate Charles May could only bind the woman over for security of $50, to be of good behaviour for three months.

Yet at least the two young women were now free, and Lai Acheong could not force them to work for her. But free for what? How now would they make their way in Hong Kong, which offered limited employment opportunities for young, probably uneducated, Chinese women? Would they find any job other than that which they had tried to leave?

Some stories had better endings, as with another case ten years later when a 16-year-old girl from Canton had been abducted by a gang of men and then sold to a mistress who also planned to sell her to a brothel keeper in Singapore. Her employer, a chemist, regarded her more like a daughter than a servant, and made strenuous efforts to find her. Finally, after the girl had been captive for six distressing weeks, he was successful and they were reunited.

 

Desperate times, desperate acts

I was still on the trail of that big ‘scoop’, though. My experience of searching through the old newspapers has been that once you get one story, it tends to lead to other, earlier but related tales. So it seemed like a ‘good omen’ when the first murder case I found with a female protagonist was right at the end of my period, just 18 months before the Japanese invasion. Once investigated, it did indeed lead me backward, to other similar events. In the end I found (or had pointed out to me) ten cases of murder or manslaughter with a woman as a principle defendant. But as I read their stories and unravelled what I could about their situation and motives, there seemed nothing ‘good’ about that omen at all. Poverty and/or desperation were clearly the main factors in half of these, whilst others showed evidence of both confused circumstances and muddled thinking, with subsequent trials often failing to provide any real clarity. But back to that first case …

“Late one warm Sunday evening in May 1940, Kan Wai, watchman in Hee Wong Terrace, West Point, was doing his rounds. Known to all as Uncle Wai, he was a friendly and helpful man, who prided himself on knowing his area and its occupants well and being able to sort out troubles before they escalated into anything nasty. The road was quiet and dark, street lighting being rudimentary here, so when the door of No. 33 burst open and young Wong Miu-lin, old Chui’s daughter-in-law rushed out screaming, he was momentarily taken off guard. “She’s got the chopper, oh, Uncle Wai, she’s murdering us!” Uncle Wai knew that the women in the second-floor flat were quarrelsome - the shrieks between the Chui Chuk’s wife and concubine could often be heard down at street level, but this sounded bad.

1940-06-04 HKDP p.5 Kwan Lai-Chun
1940-06-04 Hong Kong Daily Press, page 5

 

Blood, everywhere

“Alarmed, Uncle Wai made for the apartment. Half way up the second flight of stairs he found Lam Lin-kwai, Chui’s concubine, slumped on the stairs. She was dressed only in her underwear, but that was soaked in blood. Stooping to see what he might do for her, he thought of the children in the flat. A sound made him glance up, and he saw Chui’s wife, Kwan Lai-chun, leaning against the door frame, holding what, in the dim light of the stairwell, looked like a chopper. Leaving Lam for the moment, he carried on up and spoke calmly to Kwan. “What are you doing with that? Come on, give it to me. You don’t have to make a family matter so serious. Let me have that.” He took the chopper from the woman. It was covered in blood and seemed to have hairs and flesh attached to it.

“The amount of blood around alarmed him: Kwan seemed to be bleeding, she was certainly covered in blood, and there was more on the floor. Cautiously, he stepped further into the flat. In the passage near the door, Chui’s 85-year-old mother was lying in a crumpled heap on the floor – she wasn’t moving or making any sound at all. One hand appeared to be completely severed at the wrist. Then he glanced across at the other cubicles – where were the children? Didn’t Lam have a couple of kids? Checking to see that Kwan was still at the door – and the chopper was on the stool, where he had put it, he made his way further in. The first cubicle he tried was locked, the next empty, but as he made for the front one, he passed another bed-space in the passage. He had to hold the door frame opposite for support for a moment – the bed containing the two little bodies was a mass of blood …”

Initially I was puzzled by the questions that hung over this case, yet I was to find that, compared to other such murder cases, this was almost an indisputable case. Almost. That said, it is another aspect of the story that resonates through so many of the accounts of women on the wrong side of the colonial law in the pre-1941 period. In essence, Kwan Lai-chun’s defence, when charged with the murder of Lam Lin-kwai, had been the child’s wail of “she hit me first”. It wasn’t, as she expressed it, even really a matter of self defence. She seemed unaware of the possible consequence of her actions. In other cases, the women involved come across as having little idea of the difference between a story and an account - the latter being quiet foreign to them. Few of the Chinese women portrayed (and some earlier Westerners) had received any education outside the home. This confusion could have serious consequences, as when the younger defendant in the sensational Au Tau killing of ten years earlier almost talked herself into a murder conviction. 

 

The door of the gaol clangs shut … 

Of course, having unearthed the crimes and prosecutions that resulted in prison sentences for these women, I couldn’t leave them as they were escorted from the court. What provision was made for their incarceration? Robert Peel’s reforming Gaol Act was already 20 years old at the outset of Hong Kong’s colonial existence. The scandalous treatment of women in English prisons before that Act was something Victorian Britain was keen to forget. Obviously, here in Hong Kong there would be separate accommodation for convict women, well away from the male cells. But where and what, exactly? The books then available were almost silent on the subject until the post-war period. (The recent publication of Crime, Justice and Punishment in Colonial Hong Kong by May Holdsworth and Christopher Munn, gives a much richer history of Victoria Gaol.)

Accommodation for female prisoners was almost always, it turns out, rather an after-thought. The very first women to serve a sentence were held in a room in the house of the Magistrate. After that, and until the building of Lai Chi Kok Women’s Prison in the 1930s, space had to be found where it could. When the ‘new’ prison of 1862 was built, the eastern-most end of the ground-floor wing, close to Arbuthnot Road, was designated at the ‘Women’s Prison’. But even that to be given up when, in 1885, overcrowding in the men’s prison and prison hospital reached crisis point. Security was never an issue with the female prisoners - Superintendents often remarked on how well-behaved the women were, so a vacant house in Wyndham Street was rented for them and a modest amount spent converting it into a rudimentary prison. 

Map of CPS + Wyndham Street
1897 map showing the main gaol, with Wyndham Street to the right

 

Wyndham Street - an unconventional prison

Fortunately, that year there was then only an average of six prisoners being held on any day, so it was a simple matter to take them the short walk down Arbuthnot Road to the house. The rateable value of the building suggests that this was not large. However, numbers in this prison were growing, and it, too, would soon be overcrowded. Indeed, for example, during most of 1892 there were usually around 27 women held there, either waiting on remand or serving their sentences. 

The Matron was supposed to segregate her charges, according to the type of prisoner (remand, debtor, long-sentence etc., and by race), but this must have been well-nigh impossible in a small house, with only a couple of individual cells, and with only this one woman in charge. But by 1891 the government was having to take notice of the problems the Gaol encountered in recruiting its staff because of the wretched pay and conditions it offered. Wages were increased for all the Westerners and for the more senior Chinese posts. The Matron’s salary rose from $25 to $40 per month - less than half that of a man in a post of similar responsibility. But equally welcome was the news that she would henceforth have a ‘Nurse’ to assist her - although finding suitable women for the very low-paying job was, predictably, difficult. 

The Wyndham Street house had apparently no kitchen, as meals had to be brought by prison coolies from the gaol kitchens. But it did boast bathing and clothes washing facilities. The area had buried drains, but of limited size, so the house would have utilised the night soil collection system that was standard in the colony, rather than flushing water closets. A pressing concern was that the women only had the enclosed side yard of the building in which to exercise. A space of 24’ by 9’ could only hold a few at a time, if they were to be properly supervised and prevented from talking to one another. Although so close to the main building, it was isolated, for it would be many years before the gaol had an internal telephone system. An obstreperous or even violent prisoner might cause real problems for the matron, yet there are no reports of any such incidents.

 

The women of Wyndham Street

So, in 1892 it was an almost daily occurrence that the Matron had to receive yet another woman, perhaps one who had received the relatively stiff sentence of six months for possession of unlawful opium, but more likely the hawkers and petty thieves who would be with her for just a few days. Each, though, had to be searched, bathed and clothed in prison uniform. The rules had to be explained to her, a bed space found and food provided. Those starting a sentence, rather than just being held on remand, had to be set to work, whether the ordinary labour of cleaning and sewing, or the hard labour of oakum picking or laundry work. Some would come with their babies, others might be heavily pregnant. The elderly were often near-destitute, and the prison offered more shelter than they could usually find outside. And then there was the woman who had attempted to end it all by throwing herself off the Praya wall. She had been hauled out uninjured, by an alert constable. She would not be punished, but attempting suicide was still an offence and she must appear before the magistrate who would decide what was best for her. So the police took her to the house in Wyndham Street, where the Matron had to get her dried out, ready to go appear in court the next morning. The hours were long, continuous really, and the conditions rough, but by the end of the nineteenth century the Matron of Victoria Gaol rarely had time to be bored!


 

Thanks to Patricia for sharing these extracts from her latest book, Women, Crime and the Courts: Hong Kong 1841-1941, which was published just before Christmas by Blacksmith Books. Copies of this, and of Patricia’s first book, Policing Hong Kong – An Irish History, are available to order from Gwulo.com. Local and international orders are welcome, with free shipping for all local orders:

For more insights into Patricia’s work, please visit her website, Hong Kong social history.

For more books about Hong Kong's history, please visit Gwulo's bookstore.

And if you fancy making your own discoveries, you can follow Patricia’s approach and browse through the extensive collection of old Hong Kong newspapers that is available to view online at MMIS, part of the Hong Kong Public Library's website.

PolicingHK+WCC covers

New on Gwulo: 2021, week 2

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A look at what's new on the Gwulo website ...

 

General

  • 2021 started with an interview by the Apple Daily newspaper, chatting about running Gwulo, collecting old photos, and whether it's possible to making a living out of it! Here's the video of the interview:

    Than here's the accompanying Chinese article, plus a copy translated into English by Google Translate. The article introduced Gwulo to many new readers - if that includes you, welcome to Gwulo!
     
  • Animal visitors: IDJ has posted newspaper clippings about sightings of tigers, more tigersand whales in Hong Kong in 1936.
     
  • Notes & photos of the 1927 Typhoon
     
  • Klaus found several Pathe films of Hong Kong scenes from 1968.
     
  • Older readers may remember The Railway Tavern in Tai Wai:
    The Railway Tavern, Tai Wai - Exterior
    The Railway Tavern, Tai Wai - Exterior, by Chinarail

    While younger readers may remember riding on this miniature railway:
    Shek-Kong-Airfield-Carnival-Miniature railway
    Shek-Kong-Airfield-Carnival-Miniature railway, by Chinarail

    Peter Crush, a.k.a. Chinarail, was the owner of both, and tells us some of their stories.

 


 

Places

 


 

Book news

The new Volume 4 of Old Hong Kong Photos and The Tales They Tell is now available from Amazon.com and Amazon.co.uk (affiliate links).

 


 

People

 


 

Photos

This photo of the arch shown above comes from an interesting collection taken in 1948-49.

NRP Military Service 1948-49 Page 022
NRP Military Service 1948-49 Page 022, by Jonathan Jones, Nicholas Roy Phillips

 

Click to view the whole album.

 


 

1948 RAF Kai Tak - US Navy Consolidated PBY-5 Catalina
1948 RAF Kai Tak - US Navy Consolidated PBY-5 Catalina, by g_research

 

1966 Baptist college at Kowloon Tong
1966 Baptist college at Kowloon Tong, by HT Wong

 

Sham Shui Po 1927
Sham Shui Po 1927, by Northampton Museums & Art Gallery

 

RAF Officers' Mess.jpg
RAF Officers' Mess.jpg, by Lai Wah Dewson

 

1959 Nathan Road
1959 Nathan Road, by eternal1966e

 

1968 Cameron Road
1968 Cameron Road, by eternal1966b

 

1977 The Golden Glory Restaurant, 16 Carnarvon Road.jpg
1977 The Golden Glory Restaurant, 16 Carnarvon Road.jpg, by Alain

 

1945 Nov Hong Kong Liberation.jpg
1945 Nov Hong Kong Liberation.jpg, by Nona

 

1940_Ration Card.jpg
1940_Ration Card.jpg, by Richard Ling

 

1945_Resident Certificate.jpg
1945_Resident Certificate.jpg, by Richard Ling

 

1945_Cholera Inoculation.jpg
1945_Cholera Inoculation.jpg, by Richard Ling

 

American_Board_Mission_02.jpg
American_Board_Mission_02.jpg, by TN Kwok

 

Tai_Ping_Shan_c1895.jpg
Tai_Ping_Shan_c1895.jpg, by TN Kwok

 

1930s Peak Hotel
1930s Peak Hotel, by Moddsey

 

1960s Upper Peak Tram Station
1960s Upper Peak Tram Station, by Eternal1966

 

Ying_Wah_1912-17_hpcbristol_2_unidentified.jpg
Ying_Wah_1912-17_hpcbristol_2_unidentified.jpg, by TN Kwok

 

Ying_Wah_1927.png
Ying_Wah_1927.png, by TN Kwok

 

Victoria Harbour and Kowloon 1896-97
Victoria Harbour and Kowloon 1896-97, by cmshun

 

1957 map a.
1957 map a., by Andrew Suddaby

 

Commemorative flag for Scouts Cycle to Canton & Macao 1935
Commemorative flag for Scouts Cycle to
Canton & Macao 1935, by 15th HKG Scout

 

15HKG Scouts with their cross-country bicycles
15HKG Scouts with their cross-country bicycles, by 15th HKG Scout

 

IMG_20210106_063105.jpg
Pillbox 029, by go2shing

 

1974 Haiphong Road Flower Shops
1974 Haiphong Road Flower Shops, by Eternal1966

 

1969 Argyle St & Waterloo Rd.jpg
1969 Argyle St & Waterloo Rd.jpg, by Richard Ling

 

Peak Tram from MacDonnell Road Bridge
Peak Tram from MacDonnell Road Bridge, by Dawn in Phuket, Thailand

 

Mid-1930s TST Signal hill
Mid-1930s TST Signal hill, by eternal1966e

 

1970s Shatin Heights Hotel
1970s Shatin Heights Hotel , by foundin_a_attic

 

1950s photo album.jpg
1950s photo album.jpg, by Lai Wah Dewson

 

1975 Kai Tak Runway
1975 Kai Tak Runway, by foundin_a_attic

 

HK Calendars.jpg
HK Calendars.jpg, by Tim Roberts

 

Ice Works Causeway Bay - Conveyor Belt
Ice Works Causeway Bay - Conveyor Belt, by hkms2.0

 

1973 Roof-top View of Mody Road
1973 Roof-top View of Mody Road , by Eternal1966

 

ARP Network No. 23 Old Main Street, Aberdeen, 11.jpg
ARP Network No. 23 Old Main Street, Aberdeen, 11.jpg, by MikeB

 

Shau Kei Wan Ammunitions Depot Entrance.jpg
Shau Kei Wan Ammunitions Depot Entrance.jpg, by MikeB

 

Far East Motors site Middle Road-later site of Ambassador Hotel etc
Far East Motors site Middle Road-later site of Ambassador Hotel etc, by IDJ

 

1961 Another mystery....Somewhere in Kowloon? Diamond Hill?
1961 Cornwall Street Children's Playground, by 1950s 1960s Susan Yu Photos

 


Click to see all recently added photos.

1950s Centre Street, Sai Ying Pun

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1950s Centre Street, Sai Ying Pun

 

Where: The title that was printed on the bottom of the postcard reads: "A 89 Western Market Hong Kong"

Postcard title

 

But here's a modern photo of Hong Kong's Western Market.

2009 Western Market
2009 Western Market, by Moddsey

 

It shows Western Market stands on flat land, not a steep slope like the one in the main photo, so the postcard printer made a mistake with their title. Instead the postcard shows Sai Ying Pun Market, on Centre Street between Second and Third Streets. The market building is the light-coloured building in the distance on the left side of the road.

Sai Ying Pun Market

 

When: This was the second generation of Sai Ying Pun Market, replacing the first generation that stood just off to the right of this view. The 'new' market opened in 1932, so this photo was taken after that.

The photo was printed as a postcard, and luckily for us this copy has been mailed, giving us another date.

Back of postcard

 

The message was written on 15 June 1956, so the photo was taken sometime between 1932 and 1956. The clothes people are wearing look to me to be post-war, so I'll guess this photo was taken in the early 1950s. If you can spot anything that confirms that - or points to an earlier date - please leave a comment below.

 

Who: Here are closer views of some of the people, and maybe their fashions can help with the photo's date. These two young men stand out with their neatly cut, and very glossy, hair. Their jackets are also very shiny. Were they made from a modern synthetic material? Or silk, perhaps? Or some older waxed or oiled material?

Men on Centre Street

 

Several women are using a variety of broad-brimmed hats and umbrellas to keep the sun at bay.

Hats + umbrellas

 

The umbrella at bottom left is also keeping the sun off the baby that the lady is carrying on her back. Here are a couple more young children in similar cloth carriers.

Baby carrier


 

Baby carrier

 

These children will be in their seventies now - please let us know if you recognise them, or even spot yourself!

 

What: The constant flow of people heading to and from the market make this a good location to have a shop. The shops have their shades down to block the hot, afternoon sunshine, but we can still get a glimpse of what two of the shops in the foreground are selling.

I've made this crop lighter to see what's in the shadows. The man looks to be selling some sort of food in bulk from those large, glass jars at the front of the shop. Can anyone recognise what they'd be?

Glass jars in shop

 

This is the name of the shop, hanging next to the first floor's laundry that's out drying in the sunshine.

Shop name

 

The shop next door is also selling in bulk. We've seen shops like this before, so I think these are barrels of rice.

Barrels of rice

 

Each barrel has a narrow sign sticking out from the top, which should confirm what they contain.

Signs in rice

 

In this case the photographer didn't capture all of the vertical signboard with the shop's name, so we're missing the first couple of characters. But I think we can see them over the shop entrance (written right-to-left), so I've pasted them into the crop.

Shop sign 2

 

We can't see clearly into the other shops, but there is one more sign at the end of the terrace.

Shop sign 3

 

Then up past the market is the last sign I can see on the left side of Centre Street, shown at left-centre in this crop.

Shop signs

 

It's faint to read but it looks like the first character is "正", the Chinese character for the "Centre" of Centre Street. Across on the right side there is the familiar bat-shaped sign of a pawn shop, and one last vertical sign below it. (If you remember any of these businesses, or have any information about them to share, please let us know in the comments below.)

The crowds of people have also attracted plenty of hawkers. The group at bottom left are selling from their baskets. I notice their shoulder poles are left attached to the baskets, possibly so they can make a quick escape if they spot any government inspectors approaching.

Hawkers

 

Across to the right there's what looks to be the most basic form of hawking: no basket in sight, just a couple of handfuls of vegetables laid out on the road. If that is really what we're looking at, this lady must have been going through a very difficult time.

Hawker

 

Further right, the last hawker doesn't look too happy about being captured on film. He doesn't want to sell you vegetables to take home, he's hoping you're hungry right now, and will buy the snack he's selling from that wooden bucket on the left.

Hawker

 

His bowls have a colourful rooster as their design (seen upside-down here). You'll still see bowls with this design in stores today.

Bowl with rooster pattern

 

Finally, just above his head is something I'm always on the lookout for. Fastened to the lamppost is a rat bin!

Rat bin

 

Gwulo photo ID: BF001

Further reading: I explore lots more scenes like this in my series of books, Old Hong Kong Photos and the Tales They Tell. If you've already got the books, photo #1 in Volume 1 introduces rat bins, photo #7 in Volume 2 shows Sai Ying Pun in the early 1900s, and Volume 4 has a sequence of photos, #5 - #12, showing various shoulder poles in use.

Behind the scenes: One of the choices when buying old photos like this one is whether to buy online, or at a live auction. I mostly buy from online sites such as eBay as their prices tend to be lower, but the downside is that I'll only find out the real quality of the photo after I've paid for it and received it.

In the case of this photo, I bought it at an auction here in Hong Kong. I'd been along to the viewing day before the auction, taking my magnifying glass with me. So although the price was higher I knew the photo was a sharp one, and that there was lots of detail to explore.

New on Gwulo: 2021, week 4

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A look at what's new on the Gwulo website...

 

General

 


 

Places

 


 

Book news

For readers in the US, new stock of Gwulo's books has finally reached Amazon.com and all four volumes are now available to order. (As an example of how Covid is delaying deliveries, one of the boxes I sent took two months to arrive, instead of the usual two weeks!)

 


 

People

 


 

Photos

This is one of a series of photos taken in the 1950s by John Taylor:

Terminus Fire Station
Terminus Fire Station, by Bails

Click to view the full series.


 

1950s Lady & the classic car
1950s Lady & the classic car, by eternal1966e

 

Aqueduct 5.JPG
Aqueduct 5.JPG, by Paul Zimmerman

 

Joss House Bay, Hong Kong. 1998.
Joss House Bay, Hong Kong. 1998., by Victoria Law

 

JAT INCLINE ORDINANCE STONE
JAT INCLINE ORDINANCE STONE , by Herman

 

Boat People-Medical centre
Boat People-Medical centre, by mike

 

Kwan Tai Lo
Kwan Tai Lo, by amberone

 

1950s Queen's Road East
1950s Queen's Road East, by Moddsey

 

Bowen Aqueduct towards Stubbs Road
Bowen Aqueduct towards Stubbs Road, by amberone

 

Photo631467139510.1_inner_0-0-1000-0-0-655-1000-655.JPG
Unknown location, by Bails

 

1927 Sheung Wan Waterfront
1927 Sheung Wan Waterfront, by Moddsey

 

Ferry to Macau ca.1965
Ferry to Macau ca.1965 , by Eternal1966

 

1965 Sheung Wan waterfront
1965 Sheung Wan waterfront, by Eternal1966

 

Far East Motors site Middle Road-later site of Ambassador Hotel etc
Far East Motors site Middle Road-later site of Ambassador Hotel etc, by IDJ

 


Click tosee all recently added photos.


1919 88th Coy R.G.A. Junior N.C.O.'s

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1919 88th Coy R.G.A. Junior N.C.O.'s

 

Who: These formal photos of groups of soldiers usually help us out by having a sign explaining who they are.

88th Coy sign

 

So we're looking at the Junior Non-Commissioned Officers from the 88th Company of the Royal Garrison Artillery.

The Royal Garrison Artillery (RGA) was the part of the British Army responsible for manning the coastal defence batteries around the British Empire. These gun batteries defended harbours from attack by enemy ships.

There were three RGA Companies here in Hong Kong, the 83rd and 87th, and the 88th who are shown here. Hong Kong was also the headquarters for the Hong Kong-Singapore Battalion RGA, which was made up of Indian soldiers. I think these two gentlemen in the 88th Company photo are Indian, suggesting there was some exchange of men between the two groups.

RGA soldiers H, Q

 

The main photo doesn't show the whole company, just its Junior Non-Commissioned Officers. In most of the army they'd be the lance corporals and corporals, but in the Royal Artillery they're known as lance bombardiers and bombardiers. They wear chevron-shaped stripes on their upper arms to show their ranks, so we'll expect to see all the men with either one stripe (see B below, a lance bombardier) or two (see A below, a bombardier).

Stripes

 

There are a couple of exceptions. The senior man in the group usually gets to sit front & centre. In this photo it's the man marked D, who doesn't have any stripes on his upper sleeves.

RGA soldier D

 

Instead I've highlighted the crown badges on his forearms, which I think mean he was the Company Sergeant Major.

The other exception is the company's pet dog at top right! He was unable to keep still for the camera and so is looking a bit blurred

RGA soldier W

 

When:The sign already gives us an idea of when the photo was taken, but a note on the back pins down the exact date to 8 January 1919.

Back of postcard A555

 

That means the photo was taken less than two months after 11 November 1918, the day the fighting in World War One had stopped. During the war, the artillery's large guns and howitzers were kept behind the infantry's lines for relative safety, which meant they had to fire over longer distances towards targets that were out of sight. The technical skills of the RGA were in great demand to cope with this.

I wonder how many of these men had spent time along the Western Front, and whether a posting to Hong Kong was used to give men a chance to rest and recover?

 

Where: We can make out the arches of the building in the background, but that was a common feature of the barracks around Hong Kong. Does anyone spot any features that identify the building, or know where the 88th were based?

 

What: Enough badges to keep a cub scout happy! 

We've already noted the downward-pointing chevrons on the upper arms denoting rank. Some of the men also have a chevron on their lower left arm that points up.

RGA soldier T

 

These were 'good conduct stripes', where the first stripe was awarded to privates and lance corporals / lance bombardiers after 2 years service without being formally disciplined. You could keep adding stripes - the next was after 6 years - but no-one here has more than one. Either they were still relatively new to the RGA, or they were a mischievous bunch!

Over on their lower right arms, many men have a set of smaller chevrons, also pointing upwards.

RGA soldiers A, B, C

 

These recorded the number of years the soldier had served overseas (ie outside the UK). Not that overseas postings were guaranteed, as the RGA also manned gun batteries around Britain's coast. So if I'd joined up with dreams of seeing the world, I could still have ended up with the 44th or 57th Companies defending the Milford Haven waterway, and within walking distance of home!

The overseas service chevrons were in two different colours, with a single red chevron if you were overseas before the end of 1914, then from 1915 onwards you added one blue chevron for every year you were outside the UK. Looking at the men above, I think A has one red + three blue, B has three blue, and C has one red + four blue.

You'll notice that B also has a circular badge on his upper right arm, above his lance bombardier's stripe. It's a capital letter 'R' above a wreath, and signifies this man was a qualified rangefinder. The badge that F is wearing is clearer to see.

RGA soldier F

 

The badge on R's right arm is a similar design, but with a capital 'L' this time. That shows his proficiency is gun laying.

RGA soldier R
RGA soldier R, by Admin

 

Here's one on the upper left arm, a cross that I believe means he has some medical skills - can anyone confirm?

RGA soldier U

 

This man wears a badge showing crossed flags on his lower left arm, showing he's a signaller. Although morse and telephones were already in use, he still had to learn to how use flags to send messages by semaphore.

RGA soldier E

 

Finally, looking back to A and C again, they're wearing medal ribbons above their left breast pockets. Is it possible to identify the medals without knowing what colour the ribbons are?

RGA soldiers A, B, C

 

I'm no expert on military history, so please leave a comment below if you spot any mistakes or can tell us more about this scene.

 

Gwulo photo ID: A555

Further reading / exploring: If you've got Volume 3 of my books, pages 74-79 have more photos and stories about Hong Kong's coastal defence batteries and the soldiers that manned them. (And if you haven't got the book, here's how to order a copy!)

Ruins of many of Hong Kong's old coastal defence batteries still exist, and make for an interesting outing to explore. At the time of writing, Hong Kong's Museum of Coastal Defence is closed for a revamp, but there are other batteries whose ruins are publicly accessible - check out Rob's maps to see what's out there.

More resources:

  1. List of RGA Companies
  2. Royal Garrison Artillery
  3. Good Conduct stripe
  4. Overseas service chevrons
  5. Trade, Proficiency & Skill at Arms Badges,1900 to approx 1960: page 1, page 2, page 3
  6. Gun Laying
  7. Crossed flag signaller's badge

Kung Hei Fat Choy!

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Cow and people on street

 

A curious scene

This is the only photo I have in my collection with a 'Year Of The Ox' theme. I'm still trying to work out what was happening when the photographer took it.

Obviously there's a cow walking across the scene, but how do the two men with the shoulder pole and basket fit into the story?

Are they part of the cow's entourage, with a basket filled with something tasty to keep the cow moving in the right direction?

Or are we looking at a slow motion collision, as the cow-herder and the men with the basket all refuse to give way? If only we could see what happened next!

 

Year Of The Cow, or Year Of The Ox ?

The current year in the Chinese calendar, 牛年 in Chinese, is sometimes translated as the Year Of The Cow, and other times as the Year Of The Ox. I turned to the trusty Cantodict for help to see if there was a right way to translate it. Their translation of the second character gives several meanings, but only the first one, 'year' applies here:

年: [1] [n] year [2] [n] person's age [3] a Chinese family name

Their translation of the other character also gives several meanings:

牛: [1] [n] cow; ox; bull; cattle [2] a Chinese family name [3] stubborn; headstrong (person) [4] Kangxi radical 93

Again it's the first meaning we're interested in, though the single Chinese character equates to several different English words: cow, ox, bull, or cattle.

So no clear winner, Cow or Ox are equally valid.

 

Then what is an ox, exactly?

I know the differences between cows, bulls, and cattle, but realised I couldn't give a clear explanation of how an ox was different. I looked it up in the Cambridge Dictionary, which defines it as:

a bull (= male cow) that has had its reproductive organs removed, used in the past for pulling heavy things on farms, or, more generally, any adult of the cattle family

I'll go with the first part, defining an ox as a castrated bull that was used for pulling heavy things.

The animal in the photo looks a bit dainty to be pulling heavy things, so I think it was more likely to be a cow than an ox. I also notice it has the black and white pattern we're used to seeing in Europe, not the yellowy-brown colour of native Chinese cows, so this cow is a visitor from overseas.

 

Water cows, fire cows

I found another photo in my collection that shows a much sturdier animal.

Young girl leading water buffalo on street

 

Still not an ox though. This is a 水牛, or 'water cow', more commonly known as a water buffalo. Unlike the cow in the first photo, the water buffalo is native to Hong Kong.

To round off my stories of cows and oxen, I give you two Chinese characters that I spotted during a walk on Lamma: 火牛.

As is often the case when I see simpler characters like these, I went through three emotions in quick succession:

  1. excitement to spot characters I recognise,
  2. happiness that I could translate them: 'fire cow',
  3. disappointment when I realised I had no idea what that meant!

They were printed on the side of a large stainless-steel cabinet, and my wife told me they mean 'transformer', but couldn't explain why. If any readers know the connection between fiery cows and transformers, please let us know in the comments below.

Let me finish this first newsletter in the Year Of The Ox by wishing you health and happiness in the year ahead.

Best wishes, David

New on Gwulo: 2021, week 6

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A look at what's new on the Gwulo website...

 

General

 


 

Places

 


 

Book news

I've started receiving book stores' reports for their sales of Gwulo's books over Christmas, and I'm pleased to see they've sold over twice as many as last year. They say that all books have sold well this Christmas, probably because travel restrictions kept people in Hong Kong over the holidays.

I'm also happy to see that mail to the UK is working well again. Orders from the UK in January and February have arrived within one week - a big improvement over the 8+ weeks that deliveries were taking in December.

 


 

People

 


 

Photos

Causeway Bay with East Point early  1870's..jpg
Causeway Bay with East Point early 1870's..jpg, by danielwettling

 

Aqueduct 6.JPG
Aqueduct 6.JPG, by Paul Zimmerman

 

1950 Nathan Road
1950 Nathan Road, by eternal1966e

 

Wing_Lok_Street_Wharf_1925
Wing_Lok_Street_Wharf_1925, by keroseneian2003

 

1962 Junction of Nathan and Jordan Roads
1962 Junction of Nathan and Jordan Roads, by Eternal1966

 

1950s Ho Man Tin Hill
1950s Ho Man Tin Hill, by eternal1966e

 

Tung Shan Hotel
Tung Shan Hotel, by Raymond Lo

 

1982 RHKAAF Scottish Aviation Bulldog 128
1982 RHKAAF Scottish Aviation Bulldog 128, by Moddsey

 

1982 Kai Tak Runway 13
1982 Kai Tak Runway 13, by Moddsey

 

1981 Macao Hydrofoil "Flying Goldfinch"
1981 Macao Hydrofoil "Flying Goldfinch", by Moddsey

 

1982 Aerial View of Central
1982 Aerial View of Central , by Moddsey

 

Admiralty  1968.jpg
Admiralty 1968.jpg, by danielwettling

 

1996 Sek Kong Runway
1996 Sek Kong Runway, by Moddsey

 

1998 Kai Tak Airport Arrival Hall
1998 Kai Tak Airport Arrival Hall, by Moddsey

 

1982 Kai Tak Airport Apron
1982 Kai Tak Airport Apron, by Moddsey

 

1986 Cathay Pacific Airways DC3 - VR-HDB aka "Betsy"
1986 Cathay Pacific Airways DC3 - VR-HDB aka "Betsy", by Moddsey

 

1993 Accident to China Airlines Flight 605
1993 Accident to China Airlines Flight 605, by Moddsey

 

MS 3, Tin Kok Road
MS 3, Tin Kok Road, by Gerry Hibbert

 

Bill 69.jpg
Bill Lake in 1969, by HK Bill

 

Lei Yue Mun Barracks
Lei Yue Mun Barracks, by fivestar

 

1968 Pacific house
1968 Pacific house, by Eternal1966

 

1949 Hennessy Road
1949 Hennessy Road, by eternal1966d

 

Proclamation day: King Edward VII
Proclamation day: King Edward VII, by Klaus

 

Hong Kong Tramways 1 of 7.jpeg
Hong Kong Tramways 1 of 7.jpeg, by Adennis200

 


Click tosee all recently added photos.

Gwulo in 2021

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It's time for the annual round up of what happened on the Gwulo website in 2020, and a look ahead to some big changes planned for 2021.

 


 

2020 Review

1. How did the website grow in 2020?

I'm happy to see there was steady growth throughout the year, plus occasional bursts of new visitors from events like the Apple Daily interview.

In more detail...

 

1.1 Contributors

A strong community of contributors is essental for a site like to Gwulo to thrive.

Looking at the number of people posting comments to Gwulo, it increased from 413 people in 2019 to 549 in 2020. That's a good sign, showing new contributors joining us to record Hong Kong's history.

Here are the most active commenters in 2020:

 UsernameYear
joined
Comments
in 2020
1moddsey2009526
2annpake2018465
3David2003430
4Klaus2015368
5eurasian_david2017221
6philk2008216
7H Lo2017216
8tngan2008165
9ck892020123
10Admin 115

The "Year joined" column shows we have a healthy mix of new and long-term contributors, and that same pattern continues on the full list of commenters. It's very valuable that contributors stay with us over many years. There's the obvious benefit that the longer someone contributes to the site, the more we learn from them. Then there's also the fact that every site has a learning curve, and the people who stick around learn how to use it in the most effective way.

Thank you to all of Gwulo's contributors. The simple numbers shown above don't show the many hours spent researching the information that you generously share with Gwulo's readers.

 

1.2 Content

Contributors add new content - text and photos - to the Gwulo website. Sometimes they create a new page, eg uploading a photo or adding a page about a person or a place, and other times they're adding a comment to an existing page.

Gwulo's contributors had a busy year, adding over 5,300 new pages and over 5,800 new comments. (If you'd like a closer look at any of the numbers I mention, you can see the full figures at the bottom of the page.)

 

1.3 Readers

We write to be read, and happily the number of readers also increased over the year.

I use Google's analytics to record the number of visitors to the site each year, and it shows a huge jump from 267,000 to 732,000 unique visitors. That is too good to be true - I think Google changed the way they record the number of visitors, as I see a jump to a new level around the start of September 2020. I'll ignore that number for now.

Instead the number of page views looks more reliable. It increased from 2 million in 2020 to 2.6 million in 2021 - still a good increase to see. That's 216 thousand pages viewed each month, or over 7,000 views of Gwulo's pages in every day of 2020.

Just as I hope to see long-term contributors, I also hope visitors subscribe to become long-term readers. The numbers of subscribers have also increased, e.g. we added around 700 new email subscribers over the year.

 

1.4 Patrons

Gwulo's patrons make a monthly contribution towards the costs of running Gwulo. Thank you all for your generous support.

 20202019201820172016
Number of patrons6151535554
Total HK$ monthly contribution3,5573,0472,5452,4252,440

 

2. How did last year's plans turn out?

2.1 Gwulo.com

I made a few minor tweaks to the site, but there weren't any significant changes to Gwulo's features during the year.

There was a hiccup when the hosting company's server crashed last March, losing about one day's new content from the site. Other than that the site has behaved itself, and its performance remains good.

Last year I wrote I'd look into upgrading the Drupal software that powers the Gwulo website, as the current version was planned to reach its end-of-life (EOL) in November this year. We've had a reprieve, as the EOL has been pushed back to November 2022, but the work still needs to be done. More on that below.

 

2.2 Talks and a book

2020 was not a good year for public speaking!

I enjoyed giving a (non-Gwulo) talk at Tai Kwun with May Holdsworth and Christopher Munn in October, as luckily the date coincided with a temporary relaxation of Covid restrictions. But other in-person talks were cancelled, so instead I switched to Zoom to give a couple of online talks, presenting the standard Gwulo fare. One was to the Friends of the RAS HK Branch, and one to the Hong Kong Society, both based in the UK. I was grateful to have the chance to talk to their members, but I hope the next time will be in person, as I find it easier to present with the feedback of an audience I can see and hear.

The only good news about speaking events being cancelled is that as people are stuck at home, it appears to have boosted book sales. Volume 4 of my books was published at the end of the year, and so far it is selling well, often as part of an order for the full set of four books.

I looked into translating Gwulo's books into Chinese and decided it is something I'd like to try, but not in the near future. First I'll concentrate on finishing the English-language series books, as I already have an outline for Volume 5.

 


 

Plans for 2021

1. My plans

1.1 Gwulo.com - upgrade

The Gwulo website runs on Drupal, an open-source Content Management System. The version of Drupal we use will become unsupported in November 2022, so we need to upgrade it to the next version before then.

My goal for the upgrade is to preserve as much of the functionality of the current site as possible, so anything we can do now we can continue to do in future. It won't be exactly the same though, as some of the additional features we currently use have not been upgraded to work with the new version of Drupal.

As an example, we link people and places to photos. The upgraded site should also allow that linking as it is an important part of the site, though the way we do it will probably look different.

 

1.2 Gwulo.com - new features

By the time I've finished the upgrade, my rusty programming skills should be working again, so the next step will be to look at what new features could make the site better.

I'm cautious about adding new features, as they make the site harder to maintain, and can also make it more complicated to use, but i think there are some additions that will be worthwhile. I've made a separate page with my initial thoughts on this. Please click through to 1.2 Gwulo.com - new features for more details, and I hope you'll add comments to that page with your ideas for how to make Gwulo better.

 

1.3 No talks, book, etc.

While I'm working on the upgrade and the new features, I'll have to give up other activities. So until that work is done I won't be giving any talks, or working on a new book. I still plan to publish a Volume 5, but I don't expect that will happen until 2022.

 

1.4 Free books for teachers

There is one book project I'd still like to try this year though. I check books before I mail them out, as there always some copies with a mark on a page, a crease, etc. I put them aside as not-for-sale, and now have several boxes of them.

My ideas is to offer them as free copies to teachers who teach Hong Kong history, so they can have the books in their classroom for students to browse through. In return I'll ask the teachers to share a few tips about teaching Hong Kong history.

I'm not sure if it will gather any interest, or be a complete flop, but I'd like to give it a try.

 

​2. Your plans

If I could ask readers for one thing this year, it would be to ask for your help to type up a page of a Juror's List. We've only got five more lists to type up, for the years 1936-40, so I'd love to see that finished this year. We typed up the lists from 1932-35 last year, so it is definitely within reach.

 


 

This is heavier going than the usual newsletters, so if you've read this far, thank you!

I look forward to reading everyone's contributions to the site over the year ahead, and to seeing the upgraded site go into action.

Best regards,

David

 


 

2020 in numbers

Visitors to the website:

Website traffic (thousands)20202019201820172016201520142013201220112010
Visitors890420400317253230226263 250200157
Unique visitors732267245191148138131155 15011388
Pageviews2,6402,0771,9961,6471,2921,1841,1861,351 1,149919872

(I think Google changed their way of recording the number of visitors in 2020, explaining the dramatic jump in the number of visitors from 2019 to 2020.)

 

Subscribers:

Newsletter Subscribers202020192018

2017

2016201520142013201220112010
Email subscriptions3,9393,2402,7372,0671,4661,2111,030833 603353180
Facebook 'like / follow'5,0433,4873,0602,3441,8491,629965705 463273 
Twitter followers6062822291531141008258 4333 
RSS subscriptions [1]     488131 8253 
Total9,5887,0096,0264,5643,4202,9882,1581,627 1,191712180
            
Wartime Diaries subscribers           
79 years ago110          
78 years ago11774         
77 years ago12511256        
76 years ago219165167108       
75 years ago20918314814186      
74 years ago [2] 19915614410979     
73 years ago [2]  13813110891100    
72 years ago [2]   1431158997109   
71 years ago [2]    13985888881  
70 years ago [2]     94424437  
Total [3]780733665667557438327241118  

Notes:
[1]. Since switching from Feedburner to MailChimp, we have no way to monitor the number of RSS subscriptions.
[2]. These diary cycles had already finished, so I don't count their subscribers this year.
[3].Some people subscribe to more than one year's Wartime Diaries, so the total number of individuals subscribing wll be lower..

 

Website content:

 20202019201820172016201520142013201220112010
Photos27,47723,30519,87017,74015,50811,6709,4017,8176,3595,7254,330
Places5,6285,0294,5704,2903,7703,1402,8672,4402,0351,6231,310
Diary pages5,0514,9734,6904,6304,3733,8363,2432,3261,589  
People3,4583,2813,1202,9002,6962,4251,9071,5221,00028 
Forum topics1,8531,6211,4601,3101,1591,019923761639525350
Stories548505480430405341312265243213170
Streets3720         
Total pages44,05238,73434,19031,30027,91122,43118,65315,13111,8658,1146,160
Total comments49,58043,69038,84035,32031,86127,62024,09720,88317,47714,91011,370
Jurors Lists (years)5548433835333129271911

 

Number of people adding pages & comments to the website during the year: 

 20202019
People adding pages272215
People adding comments549413

New on Gwulo: 2021, week 8

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A look at what's new on the Gwulo website...

 

General

 


 

Places

 


 

Book news

  • 15% off
    The local My Book One online bookstore is having a sale. Until 7 March they're offering all four of Gwulo's books at 15% off: Volume 1, Volume 2, Volume 3, and Volume 4.
     
  • Thanks to sifree for the first Amazon review of Volume 4:
    "As a former Hong Kong resident I have thoroughly enjoyed all of David's previous books and this one is equally as fascinating. As well as providing an interesting insight into life in old Hong Kong, it has made me look at old photos and films in a whole new way - looking closer to find out what clues I can gain from them.
    What I particularly enjoyed about this volume was that there are more photos of Kowloon (my old stomping ground). It's always interesting to see what your former neighbourhood used to look like and how much it has changed over the years. Highly recommended for anyone with links to Hong Kong who has an active interest in its history."
     
  • I'm also pleased to see that Poirot, Hong Kong's only feline book reviewer, continues to give Gwulo's books a purr of approval with their review of Volume 3.
     
  • If you've read my latest book and would like to dig deeper, I've posted a list of the photos in Volume 4. You can click on any photo to see more information about the scene, and add comments to the photo to ask questions or add more detail.

 


 

People

 


 

Photos

1920s Spring Garden Lane
1920s Spring Garden Lane, by eternal1966e

 

1950s Victoria Park Swimming Pool
1950s Victoria Park Swimming Pool, by eternal1966e

 

1965 Victoria Park Swimming Pool
1965 Victoria Park Swimming Pool, by eternal1966e

 

1918 Mount Austin (Peak)  Road
1918 Mount Austin (Peak) Road, by eternal1966e

 

1927 Aerial View of Kai Tak Airfield
1927 Aerial View of Kai Tak Airfield, by eternal1966e

 

1930s Sai Ying Pun Waterfront
1930s Sai Ying Pun Waterfront, by eternal1966e

 

The reclamation project in Central 1963
The reclamation project in Central 1963, by longhaircheungmo

 

1963 Aerial view of Kowloon - Yau Ma Tei = 九龍航空景觀 - 油麻地
1963 Aerial view of Kowloon - Yau Ma Tei = 九龍航空景觀 - 油麻地, by ngkungyee

 

Pier to Shamshuipo ca. 1955
Pier to Shamshuipo ca. 1955, by eternal1966e

 

Doulton London drainage cover
Doulton London drainage cover in the
HK Zoological & Botanical Garden , by scottp

 

Ham Baker & Co. Westminster SW manhole cover
Ham Baker & Co. Westminster SW manhole cover, at the
Lei Yue Mun Barracks, by Freddie

 

Pui Shan, Hong Kong, 1945
Pui Shan, Hong Kong, 1945, by Arthur Fiddament

 

george gordon 1935.jpg
G G Stopani-Thomson in 1935, by Ginag

 

JamiaMosque001.jpg
JamiaMosque001.jpg, by Paul Atroshenko

 


Click tosee all recently added photos.

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