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c.1900 Panorama of Hong Kong

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Thanks to Tim Luard and Alison McEwan for sending in this wonderful panorama of Hong Kong:

Panorama of HK

Squinting at this thin gray strip, you're probably wondering what's so wonderful about it! Let's take a closer look at six sections, and all will become clear:

Boxes

From left to right we have:

Houses on the Peak

Where: This first section shows houses on the Peak. The one at the bottom-right corner was bought by the Bishop of Victoria in 1899, and given the name Bishop's Lodge [1]. Today it is accessible from Lugard Road, but of course that road hadn't been built when this photo was taken. Instead you'd walk down to it along the path from the umbrella seat.

The photographer looks to be almost as high up as Bishop's lodge, but over on the opposite slope. Would he be standing near where the Lions Pavilion stands today?

Here's the next section:

Luginsland

What: We've taken the road down from the Peak (today's "Old Peak Road"), and reached the first houses in mid-levels. This one was called Luginsland [2].

Continuing down the road we reach a crossroads. Robinson Road is on our left and right, and Albany Road is dead ahead:

Houses near Albany / Robinson Road junction

The long roof in the bottom left corner belongs to The Albany [3]. That's Robinson Road on its left, and the road above it is Albany Road. Top-centre we can see the Roman Catholic Cathedral [4] in the distance.

(The photo is sharp enough that there are many more buildings we can identify. I'll link to a high-resolution copy of the photo below, annotated so we'll all know which buildings we're talking about.)

When: The next two sections show buildings on the newly reclaimed land. They'll help us pin down the date for when the photo was taken.

Queens Building

At the top is Queen's Building [5]. That was finished in 1899, and gives us the earliest possible date for the photo.

In front of it, Princes Building [6] is under construction. It was built in phases, and the PWD report for 1901 [7] says that the "Princes Buildings (south-western section)" was under construction.

In this photo, construction of the eastern side of the building is still underway and the western half remains unbuilt, so I'll guess the the photo was taken in 1900, mid-way between those two dates.

Cricket pitch

Across Statue Square we see the cricket pitch, and four more new buildings beyond. Those four buildings were all finished in 1897 and 1898, but there's still a space for a fifth building, the Hong Kong Club Annexe [8]. That was also listed as under construction in 1901.

The last section shows a site being prepared for a large building that still stands today. Do you recognise it?

BMH site under preparation

The roads might help - the curving road below the site is Bowen Road, and the road running downhill to the left is Borrett Road. The British Military Hospital [9] will open on this site in 1907.

Who: Here's Tim to tell us more about the panorama and its original owner:

"I've just had it scanned from the original print, which extends over several pages in an album. Because of the shape it's hard to see much unless you enlarge it, of course, but we were surprised at how much detail there is when you zoom in.

The album was left by my late grandfather, Colonel Trant Luard. He was a gunnery officer in the Royal Marines with the China Fleet from 1901-4, so the album also has various postcards of Chinese scenes he bought during a visit to Peking just after the raising of the siege of the legations after the Boxer rebellion.

It seems from his letters he had a good time in HK anyway when his ship, HMS Blenheim, put in there -- dining at the Club, playing golf at Happy Valley and shooting in the NT."


If you can help us identify more of the buildings in the photo, there is an annotated, full-size copy at http://gwulo.com/atom/25321

Thanks again to Tim and Alison for sharing this photo with us. If you have any old photos of Hong Kong you'd like to share on Gwulo, please contact me. (Or even better, upload the photos straight to Gwulo for us to see. Here's how: http://gwulo.com/node/2076)

Regards, David

PS We're off on our summer holidays tomorrow, visiting family & friends, and escaping the summer heat for a few weeks. I'll check in to the site each day, and I've got the next few newsletters written and ready to post, but otherwise I won't be posting much while we're away. Enjoy yourself if you're taking a break over the summer, and safe travels if you're heading overseas.

Also on Gwulo.com this week:

References:

  1. Bishop's Lodge
  2. Luginsland
  3. The Albany
  4. Roman Catholic Cathedral
  5. Queen's Building
  6. Princes Building
  7. Public Works Department Annual Report for 1901
  8. Hong Kong Club Annexe
  9. British Military Hospital on Bowen Road

"Come and get it!" - the Stanley Camp food queues

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Food and hunger are common themes in Hong Kong's wartime diaries. Barbara Anslow wrote this piece in 1944/45, describing the daily food queues in Stanley Camp:


The summons for food is the same as the summons for everything else in the Married Quarters of Stanley Camp  - a raucous clanging on a broken shellcase with a thick stick.  Each set of accommodation blocks has its own particular arrangement for serving;  ours, the Married Quarters, boasts a separate serving table for each of our four blocks; each block has three floors which take turns in being first in the queue; beyond his, the rule of ‘first come, first served’ applies.

In fine weather the food queues are to be found anywhere in the Married Quarters courtyard, the position depending upon the whereabouts of the sun – the object being to place the servers and as many of the queuers as possible in the shade.  In wet weather, the question of site is even more complicated, the only spaces affording shelter being the porchways below the back stairs.   Today, however, it is sunny, and the shadiest area is at the end of the yard nearest the distributing kitchen; this means that to the general hiatus of serving food is added the noisy business of scrubbing out cooking containers and utensils, followed by the sluicing down of the site of these operations.   There are four queues in this particular spot this morning, so close together that to the uninitiated  observer it may seem that there is no queue at all,  but only a disorderly crowd.    Blocks 3 and 4 are serving here, in addition to the ‘specials’ queue, in which workers receive extra rations allotted to them for their labour, and the congee queue, which caters for those persons who are certified by a doctor’s chit as being unable to assimilate rice in its boiled form.   Blocks 2 and 5 have appropriated the only other shady place – between the buildings known as Blocks 4 and 5.

The scene from one of the verandahs overlooking the courtyard is one which brings to mind news films of refugees lining up for their daily bread, one main difference being that our food queue is comparatively cheerful, as rumours and gossip are busily exchanged.

The most important aspect of the food queue, of course, is the food itself.  A rough idea of what this constitutes can sometimes be gained in advance by reading the menu on the noticeboard.  I say only a ‘rough’ idea for two reasons, the first being that quite often the kitchen staff forget to change it from day to day;  the second that the same kitchen staff sometimes let their imagination run away with them, and describe, say, a flat, fried rice cake about 2 and a half inches in diameter as ‘Uncle Charlie’s Birthday Biscuit.’  The menu this morning reads ‘Rice; Veg. Pasty; Melon soup.’   As we had that sumptuous meal last night, today’s meal will have to remain a surprise until it actually comes across from the galley – a converted garage situated opposite the front corner of Block 4.  

A chain of sweating men stagger out from the galley into the courtyard, carrying zinc baths full of boiled rice; then the stew arrives.  Today it looks rather more interesting than usual, having a rich brown appearance, reminiscent of the gravy we used to have with our Sunday dinners in days of old.   On closer examination, however, it proves to be made of minced ‘horse’ beans; these large beans, black outside and brownish-yellow within, are believed to be those described in a Readers Digest we came across as ‘eaten only by mules and pit ponies, and only consumed by humans in case of famine or exceptional necessity,’ but they taste nutty and are a great improvement on the colourless, tasteless melon soup which usually accompanies the morning rice.

There is no possibility, these days, of drawing a double share of food, for the first official you encounter as you approach the serving table is a ‘checker’, who has a list of every one on block rations and how much rice they are due. You receive your share of China’s staff of life first – served by a perspiring individual from a medium-sized zinc bath over which he operates in much the same way as the ice-cream vendor fills wafers and cornets.  On his or her left is a bowl of hot water in which he dips the copper-coloured ladle (camp made) from time to time to loosen the rice grains which are inclined to stick.  The small quantity of rice which collect in this bowl are the recognised perks of the rice server; such rice as is spilt on the ground is swept up and, together with the grains washed out from the larger kitchen containers, goes to the camp chicken farm.

You then present your plate or other container before an oblong tray containing bean stew, of which each person receives one dipper full; the size of dipper used varies from day to day according to the quantity of stew available; today’s ladle was made in camp from a small tin of Chinese tomatoes.   The serving from this end of the table (which incidentally is actually a beige coloured door to which rough legs have been added), is superintended by some trusted member of the Block who can be relied upon to see that the server does not give her friends or relations an extra ladle of stew.   The official Block Representative (there is one for each Block) is also in the vicinity of the serving table, acting as a kind of liaison officer between servers and kitchen workers so that a further supply is available as soon as the first containerful is exhausted.

The queues are constantly breaking up to make way for some dripping member of the kitchen staff to come over to a table with a dish of hot stew, and all those within splashing distance have to stand back while the fresh stew is decanted into the serving container.

It is interesting to observe that some people collect only their own ration, whereas others carry makeshift trays with as many as 6 persons’ food.  You can see every single member of one particular room lining up for their food behind each other – this is usually an indication that relations in that room are strained and perhaps completely broken off.

A wider variety of containers than those in which the food is collected could hardly be imagined;  there is a large proportion of enamel mugs and plates of different colours donated to the camp some 3 years ago, but many of these have worn out and are replaced by odd china plates, saucers, little trays from prewar ‘tiffin’ carriers, and tins of various sizes, the ‘Domo’ and ‘Cowbell’ milk powder variety (from Red Cross parcels 2 years ago) predominating.   There are enamel measuring mugs, oblong medical trays of white enamel rimmed with dark blue, even an inverted lampshade with a makeshift bottom.  The experienced severs know where the rice goes and where the stew goes – some people are very fussy on this point, but most of the men have ‘everything slapped on together’ – to quote their own expression.

A good selection of Stanley fashions are displayed in the food queues;  most people are barefoot; the men, almost without exception, wear only a pair of shorts, although there are one or two who still consider it infra dig to appear without shirt, socks and shoes, no matter how tattered these articles may be.  The majority of the women wear shorts and blouses or suntops, usually revealing a sunburnt strip of midriff.  The garments are growing a little jaded this year.  The Welfare shorts received in camp in 1942 have washed from a bright khaki to a pale fawn, and the shorts made from dresses which droop sadly. Suntops are made from all sorts of odds and ends – from flourbags to small squares of different coloured materials pieced together.  A few ladies exhibit the more superior Stanley feminine fashion – an old dress which has worn badly has been cut off at the waist, forming a skirt and a short blouse, leaving an exposed midriff which makes for coolness.   This is a very popular fashion for growing girls, when the hems of their dresses have been let down to their utmost limit, a new lease of life is added by cutting the dress in the manner described.

Despite the very acute clothes problem, and the exigencies of the camp restricting washing to a minimum for soap and personal calorie economy, there are still a few women to whom the food queue is apparently the outing of the day, for they still arrive dressed in their best; one elderly lady never appears without a black felt hat belonging to a past decade.

Difference in dress and containers there may be – but difference in the ration received according to one’s entitlement – no!  Any one who considers that his rice is slight under weight may take it to a gentleman who presides at some scales in the yard, where any deficit is made up, or overage deducted (the latter possibility limits the number of those querying their share).   Once served, every one troops back to their rooms, threading their way through the day’s washing which usually flutters from practically every space on the clothes lines which run the whole length of the courtyard.

The last queue is served; any leftovers, or ‘seconds’, distributed to the rooms next on turn to receive them; the servers and supervisors disperse; the tables are moved out of the way and washed.    For a time there is comparative quiet in the Married Quarters as 500 odd mouths make short work of – and some remember to thank God for – their meagre meal.

Barbara Redwood
Stanley, 1944 or 1945


Thanks to Barbara for sharing this with us. By a happy coincidence, our paths will cross in just under two weeks' time, as we're both visiting our respective families in South Wales. I'm looking forward to inviting Barbara out for lunch, and guarantee there won't be any 'horse' beans on the menu!

Also on Gwulo.com this week:

1950: Military sites around Hong Kong

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Several of Gwulo's readers first visited Hong Kong on military service, and will remember the sites listed below.

If you can add any photos or memories, they'll be gratefully received.

Regards, David

 

HONG KONG ISLAND.

 

(1) Stanley Fort - Map & Notes, Photos

1997 St. Barbara - Garrison Church of Stanley Fort
1997 St. Barbara - Garrison Church of Stanley Fort, by Moddsey


(2) Cape Collinson Camp - Map & Notes, Photos

 

(3) The War Memorial Hospital - Map & Notes, Photos

1930s War Memorial Hospital
1930s War Memorial Hospital, by Admin

 

(4) The Bowen Road Hospital - Map & Notes, Photos

Military Hospital, Bowen Road
Military Hospital, Bowen Road, by bermuda97

 

(5) Lyemun Fort - Map & Notes, Photos

 

(6) Causeway Bay Camp - Map & Notes, Photos

 

(7) R.A.F. Unit Billets, No. 1 Calder Path - Map & Notes, Photos

 

(8) Victoria Peak Wire­less Station - Map & Notes, Photos

 

(9) Chung Hum Kok - Map & Notes, Photos

 

(10) Mt. Davis Camp - Map & Notes, Photos

RAF Mount Davis
RAF Mount Davis, by Gerard Wallwork

 

KOWLOON

 

(11) Whitfield Barracks - Map & Notes, Photos

Rawson HK 2.jpg
Rawson HK 2.jpg, by Gemma W

 

(12) Gun Club Hill - Map & Notes, Photos

1910s Chatham Road looking towards Gun Club Hill
1910s Chatham Road looking towards Gun Club Hill, by moddsey

 

(13) Railway Hotel - Map & Notes, Photos

1960 Middle Road Car Park (Open Air)
1960 Middle Road Car Park (Open Air), by eternal1966e

 

(14) Military Hospital, La Salle College La Salle Road - Map & Notes, Photos

Rawson HK 4.jpg
Rawson HK 4.jpg, by Gemma W

 

(15) Telephone Company’s Building, Kowloon - Map & Notes, Photos

1950s HK Telephone Building
1950s HK Telephone Building, by eternal1966c1

 

(16) R.A.F. Explosives Area. - Map & Notes, Photos

 

(17) Ordnance Depot and Camp, Kowloon Tsai - Map & Notes, Photos

 

(18) Argyle Street Camp No. 2 - Map & Notes, Photos

 

(19) Argyle Street Camp Nos. 3 & 4 - Map & Notes, Photos

 

(20) Officers' Mess, Kai Tak - Map & Notes, Photos

1950s RAF Kai Tak Officer's Mess
1950s RAF Kai Tak Officer's Mess, by moddsey

 

(21) Chatham Road Camp - Map & Notes, Photos

1960s Chatham Road
1960s Chatham Road, by m20wc51

 

(22) R.A.S.C. Anchorage, Shamshuipo - Map & Notes, Photos

 

NEW TERRITORIES

 

(23) Fanling Camp - Map & Notes, Photos

 

(24a) Fan Hill Camps (a) - Map & Notes, Photos

 

(24b) Fan Hill Camps (b) - Map & Notes, Photos

 

(25) Quarry Camp - Map & Notes, Photos

QUARRY CAMP PING SHAN
QUARRY CAMP PING SHAN, by jon birch

 

(26) Far East Farm Camp - Map & Notes, Photos

Far East Farm Camp
Far East Farm Camp, by jameswjacobs2@btinternet.com

 

(27) Erskine Camp - Map & Notes, Photos

1961 Doug Brentlinger's photos
1961 Doug Brentlinger's photos, by Admin

 

(28) Tai Lam Camp - Map & Notes, Photos

 

(29) Volunteer Slope Camp - Map & Notes, Photos

 

(30) Kwan Ti Camp - Map & Notes, Photos

 

(31) Tam Mi Camp - Map & Notes, Photos

 

(32) Queen’s Hill Camp - Map & Notes, Photos

Queen's Hill Barracks in Lung Yeuk Tau. = 龍躍頭皇后山軍營 1964
Queen's Hill Barracks in Lung Yeuk Tau. = 龍躍頭皇后山軍營 1964, by eatsee7

 

(33) Hill 29 Camp - Map & Notes, Photos

 

(34) Greenville Amuse­ment Park Camp - Map & Notes, Photos

 

(35) Sek Kong Camp Area - Map & Notes, Photos

British Army Camp at Sek Kong 1950
British Army Camp at Sek Kong 1950, by Bill Griffiths

 

(36) Beas River Camp - Map & Notes, Photos

 

(37) San Wai Camp - Map & Notes, Photos

Kwanti Racecourse-San Wai Camp-1936
Kwanti Racecourse-San Wai Camp-1936, by IDJ

 

(38) Pak Yuen Camp - Map & Notes, Photos

 

(39) Lo Wu Camp - Map & Notes, Photos

Sign at Lo Wu Saddle Club
Sign at Lo Wu Saddle Club, by 70s kid

 

(40) Dodwell’s Camp - Map & Notes, Photos

1964 55 Bty, 49 Field Regt. RA stationed at Dodwell's Ridge Camp
1964 55 Bty, 49 Field Regt. RA stationed at Dodwell's Ridge Camp, by Widzy

 

(41) Ho Tung Farm Camp - Map & Notes, Photos

 

(42) Dill’s Corner Camp - Map & Notes, Photos

Army Housing site. Dills Corner Camp 1975
Army Housing site. Dills Corner Camp 1975, by 70s kid

 

(43) Cafeteria Camp - Map & Notes, Photos

 

(44) Arculli’s Camp - Map & Notes, Photos

 

(45) China Light & Power, Taipo - Map & Notes, Photos

 

(46) Tate’s Cairn Camp - Map & Notes, Photos

 

(47) Norwegian Camp - Map & Notes, Photos

Norwegian Farm Camp/Cassino Lines 1952/53
Norwegian Farm Camp/Cassino Lines 1952/53, by Trojan_Llama

 

(48) Tat Tak - Map & Notes, Photos

 

(49) Shing Mun Road - Map & Notes, Photos

 

(50) Clearwater Bay Peninsula - Map & Notes, Photos

 

(51) Crest Hill Observation Post - Map & Notes, Photos

Tai Shek Mo / Crest Hill
Tai Shek Mo / Crest Hill, by mad1941

 

(52) Sandy Ridge Observation Post - Map & Notes, Photos

 

(53) Pak Fu Shan Observation Post - Map & Notes, Photos

 

(54) Naval Station, Chik Chau - Map & Notes, Photos

Military-built footpath at Port Island
Military-built footpath at Port Island, by wvmarle

 

(55) Naval Station, Cheung Chau - Map & Notes, Photos

 

(56) Naval Station, Tai 0 - Map & Notes, Photos

NAVAL SIGNAL STATION TELESCOPE
NAVAL SIGNAL STATION TELESCOPE, by Admin

 


1940 vs. 1950

Here are the same locations plotted on a 1952 map of Hong Kong:

It's interesting to compare them with a map showing the British pillboxes in 1940: http://gwulo.com/taxonomy/term/82/places-map

Then the defensive line was further south, in the hills just north of Kowloon. In 1950 we see that the British forces were placed much further north, close to the border with China.

What's missing?

The locations listed here are taken from the document "Military Installations Closed Areas (Amendment and Consolidation) Order" [1], dated 17th November, 1950. It isn't a complete list though, as it's missing some major military sites, including Victoria Barracks and HMS Tamar.

First I thought it was because the list only shows sites that were taken over for military use after WW2. But it includes old sites like Whitfield Barracks and Stanley Fort, so that isn't true. There must have been other lists of military sites in addition to this one.

Thank you!

Thanks to everyone who has contributed photos and information about these sites. Special thanks to Moddsey for introducing us to the 1950 list of closed areas, and to Tymon Mellor who both provided the 1952 map shown above, and also provided the locations of the sites that weren't already on Gwulo. Tymon has many more maps of Hong Kong available to enjoy at his website, http://www.hkmaps.hk

Again, if you can add any photos or memories of these sites, we'll enjoy seeing them.

Regards, David

References:

  1. Military Installations Closed Areas (Amendment and Consolidation) Order: http://gwulo.com/node/30494

Also on Gwulo.com this week:

71 years ago: August 1945 and the end is in sight

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Seventy-one years ago, our wartime diarists knew the end of the war was in sight. Would they live to see it?

The good news

They had two good reasons to believe the end of the war was coming. First there was the steady advance of the Allies as they fought their way from island to island across the Pacific. The local newspapers emphasised the Allied losses at each stage, but it was clear the Japanese were in retreat. By April they were attacking Okinawa, less than 400 miles away from the Japanese mainland. Barbara Anslow, interned in Stanley Camp, wrote about the attack in her diary entry for 6th April:

"Newspaper is full of landings on Lu Chius made on Sunday morning"

(The modern name for the Lu Chius is the Ryuku Islands, and the largest of the Ryuku Islands is Okinawa.)

But the big news came next month: Germany's surrender, ending the war in Europe. Here's Barbara again, writing on the 10th of May:

"Armistice signed 2.41pm on 7th May; the German people asked by Hitler's successor to keep calm and try to help dispel the feeling of hate.

We all seem to take the peace so much for granted here, because it has never seemed real to us, but I try to imagine how it is - no blackouts, children coming back from overseas, no more the dread of something happening - and the prospect of being able to settle down to proper family life again.

If it were the Japanese who had surrendered we would feel differently; as it is, we are praying that she will surrender and thus save more useless bloodshed (including perhaps our own).

Dr Talbot gave me aspirins - have headache with styes."

Plenty to worry about

Barbara's second diary entry above ends with a mention of "styes", abcesses that form on your eyelids. Most people get a couple of styes during their life, but Barbara was getting them again and again. The years of limited rations in camp left her and the other internees weak and susceptible to illness. Conditions in the city and the prisoner-of-war camps were even worse. If the war dragged on, they wondered if they'd survive another winter.

So it might seem that an early arrival of allied forces to liberate Hong Kong would be a better option but, as Barbara notes, that had its own risks of "useless bloodshed". If the Allies attacked Hong Kong, the Japanese were unlikely to surrender without a fight. On islands like Iwo Jima and Okinawa they'd developed a strategy of defence using caves and tunnels to protect themselves from the Allies' fire-power. In the fierce fighting that followed, attackers, defenders and civilians all suffered very high casualty rates.

The internees at Stanley had seen the Japanese making similar preparations. R E Jones' diary mentions them on several occasions:

"Japs doing lots of blasting locally." 26th Feb

"Blasting going on all night & day." 27th Feb

"Japs still blasting holes all over the hills & around the beaches locally." 17th Mar

"... blasting going on." 31st Mar

That's his last mention of blasting, but the work continued:

"More stuff being transported up the hills by Japs." 15th Jun

So if there was going to be a prolonged defence of the island, the diarists worried they'd get caught up in the fighting. At least there was a chance of surviving that, but there was a worse option in the back of their minds. If the Allies attacked Hong Kong, would the Japanese simply massacre all the prisoners before the fighting began?

The diarists remembered the massacres committed by the Japanese during the fighting in 1941. And though the diarists didn't know it, the Japanese didn't expect any of their citizens would survive an Allied attack. In the war-crime trials after the war, a senior Japanese official described the Japanese war memorial in Hong Kong, saying "it had been planned that the Japanese would retire there to commit mass suicide."

Nobody knew

The diarists started August with these conflicting hopes and worries. What actually happened that month took them all by surprise - indeed it took the world by surprise, as its preparations were known to just a handful of people.

You can follow the events of August 1945 through the diaries of people in Hong Kong at the time. Click here to sign up, and each day you'll receive an email with photos and diary entries from that day, seventy -oneyears ago. It's free, your details stay private, and you can unsubscribe at any time.

Also on Gwulo.com this week:

1960s Hong Kong

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Different views of Hong Kong in the 1960s, starting with:

1960s Hong Kong in words

Andrew Craig-Bennett's excellent series about Hong Kong's history includes:

  • Hong Kong in the late Fifties and early Sixties
    The 1960s were probably the defining decade in the formation of the Hong Kong identity as it is today. Read more...
     
  • A note on "Fragrant grease"
    Hong Kong in the Fifties and Sixties, especially the Sixties, was a nest of corruption, springing from the population explosion. There was unmet demand for just about everything, and allocation of resources was an obvious field for corruption. Low Government salaries certainly contributed so far as local officials were concerned, but the Englishmen in the Government service had no such excuse. In fairness to them, though, they were often very fine people in other respects - senior and junior policemen and firemen were often brave, efficient and corrupt at the same time. Read more ...
     
  • More Sixties Stuff
    Expanding public education, riots, "R&R", the Confrontation Tie, and Mainland China's views of British Hong Kong during this time. Read more ...

 

1960s Hong Kong in photos

I've chosen a few favourites to begin with (you can click on any photo to see a larger copy):

 

BOAC Hong Kong poster
Arrive by air

 

1960s Kai Tak Observation Deck
Kai Tak Observation Deck

 

P&O SS Chusan
Or arrive by sea: P&O's SS Chusan, shown berthed at Kowloon Wharf

 

1960s TST Clock Tower
View over the Railway Terminus & Clock Tower towards Central

 

1961 Central banks decorated for Princess Alexandra's visit
Central banks decorated for Princess Alexandra's visit in 1961

 

1960s HSBC
Inside HSBC

 

1960s Traffic Pagoda
Traffic Police Pagoda

 

1960s Hong Kong
Queueing for water

 

196x pic taken at victoria park
Victoria Park playground

 

Repulse Bay Beach-1969
Repulse Bay Beach

 

Fisher-folk Children Sha Tau Kok -1960's
Fisher-folk children at Sha Tau Kok

 

1967 Staunton's Creek
Jam-packed Staunton's Creek, Aberdeen

 

1960s Hong Kong
Bus on Lantau

 

1960s #72 Des Voeux Road Central, Tak Wing Pawn Shop
Taxi & bus on Des Voeux Road Central

 

1960 Gingles Restaurant
Nathan Road, showing Gingles Restaurant

 

1965 Chantecler ad
"Specialising in European and Russian food"

 

Shirley_Bassey-HK.jpg
Shirley Bassey at City Hall

 

1960s Sun Ya Hotel, Nathan Road, Mong Kok
Mong Kok at night

 

For more photos from the 1960s, see:

Then browse through over 500 photos from the 60s in our galleries.

 

New buildings in the 1960s

Look how the 1960s building boom changed Hong Kong's skyline. This first view is from the 1950s:

1952 View down the Peak Tram line and over Central

At that time the buildings in Central were mostly 3-6 storeys high, built in the late 1800s or early 1900s. The only "skyscrapers" in this photo are the HSBC and Bank of China buildings.

The second was taken in the mid-1960s. Can you spot the two bank buildings? By this time they were dwarfed by all the new construction.

1965 View over Central & Harbour from The Peak

To see the effect at street-level, here's how Queen's Building (in the foreground) and the original Prince's Building looked. Both were built within a few years of each other at the start of the twentieth century:

1910s Queen's Building

Both were knocked down at about the same time too. Queen's Building went first, replaced by the 27-storey Mandarin Hotel. In this photo from 1964, the new Hotel was just a year old:

CityHall & Mandarin Hotel

That dark shape behind the hotel is the new Prince's Building under construction. It was finished the following year.

Here's how the two buildings looked in 1966. 

A very modern Central

(Look to the right of Queen's Building in both photos, and you'll see another old building disappearing. The St. George's Building was about to be re-developed.)

The changing skyline even made the international news in this Pathé film clip (if you can't see the video or the map below, please view the web version of this page):

Here are all those new buildings from the 1960s shown on a map:

The map is live - you can zoom in, change layers, click a marker to see the building's name, etc. Or if you prefer, you can see the new buildings shown as a list. (Both the map and the list are a work in progress, so please add a page for any buildings we've missed.)


Thank you to everyone who has contributed the all facts and photos above.

If you have any favourite photos or memories of 1960s Hong Kong you can add, we'd love to see them. Here's how to upload a photo, and for any memories or stories please leave a comment below. Longer memoirs are also very welcome.

Regards, David

Also on Gwulo.com this week:

1890s View along the Praya

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1890s View along the Praya

When: This photo is taken from a stereoview card, dated 1896:

1896 Stereoview: "Chinese Coolies, Hong Kong, China"

 

Where: The line of masts along the right of the photo shows we're on the seafront, or Praya.

Masts

We know the 1896 seafront ran along Des Voeux Road, but which section are we looking at?

There's a clue in the line of the buildings on the left. See how it ends abruptly? That marks a corner where the road turns out of sight to the left. Maps show two candidate corners, one near Jubilee Street and one at the junction with Rumsey Street.

The corner near Jubilee Street seems more likely, and the arches on the building in the left foreground confirm it.

Arches

They were on the front of the Central Market building [1], the predecessor to the current Central Market. Here's a later view of these buildings:

1900s Central Market

 

Who: This area employed a lot of manual workers to load and unload the boats that moored along the sea wall. In front of the market building was a stone pier with steps that made access to boats that bit easier, so this location was even busier.

The pier was mainly used by boats delivering food to the market, but it was used for other deliveries too. In this photo, the group in the foreground are all working on a delivery of bricks.

Man with bricks

That man has his carriers loaded and ready to go, while others are loading up:

Loading bricks into carriers

And there are plenty of spare carriers available if needed:

Brick carriers

 

What: If you can read the Chinese characters, please can you let us know what type of businesses were running here?

Shop signs

The only English words are this sign on the pillar that is closest to us:

Kops Ale

The shop sells "Kops Ale", a non-alcoholic drink brewed in Fulham, London, and shipped out around the British Empire [2]. It must have been new to Hong Kong in 1896, as it got a mention in the Hong Kong Daily Press in May that year:

Kops Ale

At this time the Temperance Movement [3] was in full swing, so there was a ready market for non-alcoholic drinks like Kops Ale.


Prints of this photo are available to buy in the Shop.


Trivia: The copyright belongs to "Strohmeyer & Wyman", but the card is "Sold only by Underwood & Underwood". At this time the cards were produced by Strohmeyer & Wyman, but Underwood & Underwood were the sole distributors. A few years later, Underwood & Underwood bought Strohmeyer & Wyman's business, merging the two companies' collections of stereoview cards [4].

References:

  1. Central Market, 2nd Generation [1895-1937]
  2. Kops' Brewery, Fulham
  3. Temperance Movement
  4. The relationship between Strohmeyer & Wyman and Underwood & Underwood.

Also on Gwulo.com this week:

Tong Lau / 唐樓, the Hong Kong shophouse

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Hong Kong's streets used to be lined with shophouses, but few remain today. In this guest post, Dr. Lee Ho Yin and Prof. Lynne DiStefano from Hong Kong University walk us through the history of the Hong Kong shophouse, then show us how to identify the different generations.


Tong Lau: A Hong Kong Shophouse Typology

 

Prince Edward Road West
(Image source: Urban Renewal Authority)

by

Lee Ho Yin and Lynne DiStefano
Division of Architectural Conservation Programmes (ACP)
Faculty of Architecture, The University of Hong Kong

 

1.0    Definition of Tong Lau and Tenement House

Tong Lau (functioning as singular and plural; 唐樓, literally, “Chinese building”) belongs to the generic urban shophouse typology found in predominantly Chinese cities in Southern China and Southeast Asia, such as Hong Kong, Guangzhou, Macau, Singapore and Penang.  It is a typology that has infused with material, construction and living traditions of Southern Chinese in 19th-century urban centres, particularly towns and cities in Guangdong and Fujian provinces.  The prototype of this typology is the 19th century urban shophouse of Southern China (Fig. 1).  This paper focuses on Tong Lau of Hong Kong built before the Pacific War (1941-45).

 

19thC shophouses

Fig. 1    A drawing by the 19th-century Shanghai-based illustrator Wu Youru(吴友如), depicting a Southern Chinese urban street scene lined with shophouses.  (Source: 十九世紀中國風情畫二百圖)

 

Tong Lau has become a term that applies to the urban shophouse typology that has acquired special characteristics peculiar to Hong Kong as a result of such local factors as land policy, town planning and building regulations, all of which combined to transform the design from the prototypal architecture in order to adapt it to local conditions and circumstances.

Tong Lau in Hong Kong has been referred to as “tenement house.”  Strictly speaking, this term does not describe the architecture, but the function of such buildings for tenement housing in response to the critical shortage of living quarters to accommodate the rising population.  Such a situation became more severe from the 1930s to the 1960s, when mass influx of refugees escaping from war and political turmoil in Mainland China.  The introduction of a public housing policy and the construction of large-scale public housing estates that began in the 1950s eventually alleviated the tenement housing problem in Tong Lau to a large degree.

According to Hong Kong’s Building Regulations, a building that is used for tenement housing is a “Tenement House,” which is defined in Clause 6, sub-clause 56 of the Public Health and Buildings Ordinance, 1903 as “any domestic building constructed, used, or adopted to be used for human habitation by more than one tenant.”

In summary, the type of Chinese shophouse found in Hong Kong should properly be called Hong Kong Tong Lau (香港唐樓 or 港式唐樓) or simply Tong Lau, as this provides cultural and geographical distinction from its counterparts in other places, such as, Guangzhou Qilou (廣州騎樓), Penang Shophouse (檳城店屋) and Singapore Shophouse (新加坡店屋).

 

2.0    Historical Context of Chinese Settlements in Hong Kong

In the 19th century, as foreign powers aggressively pried open China for trade and other economic gains, they provided an unexpected escape route to thousands of Chinese who were desperately seeking a way out of their socio-economic predicament in China.  The people in the coastal areas of eastern southern Fujian and eastern Guangdong were exposed to opportunities for business and employment overseas through local trading ports that had been opened to foreign trade.  For example, in the province of Fujian, the coastal city of Amoy (now Xiamen) established maritime trading with British Singapore in 1821, while its provincial capital Fuzhou (formerly called Foochow) opened to foreign trade in 1842.  The capital of Guangdong province, Canton (now Guangzhou), became China’s first official foreign trading port in 1759, while Hong Kong became a British possession and entrepôt in 1842 at the end of the First Opium War.  

Consequently, large numbers of coastal Chinese from Guangdong and Fujian began a mass exodus to foreign lands in search of a better livelihood with considerable numbers being drawn particularly to the politically stable and economically vibrant British colonies of Hong Kong and Singapore in the Far East.  The British colonial administrations of Hong Kong and Singapore welcomed the Chinese immigrants because the newly established colonial territories needed the cheap labour and services, cottage industries, and the trade and investment that the Chinese brought with them.

After Hong Kong Island was ceded to the British in 1841, the focus was on developing Hong Kong as a trading port and a foothold to the lucrative China trade. The first city plan for the city of Hong Kong, known as City of Victoria, was Gordon’s Map of 1843 (Figs. 2 and 3), is basically a survey map of the locations of the early batch of land lots sold for residential and commercial uses.

 

HK in 1843

Fig. 2    Gordon’s Map of 1843, showing the early ad-hoc layout of the City of Victoria. The large rectangular compound marked “Magistracy and Jail,” is the site of today’s Central Police Station Compound.  The area outlined in red dotted lines is shown in Fig. 3 below.  (Source: Public Records Office, Hong Kong)

 

HK in 1843 - detail

Fig. 3    Details of Gordon’s Map of 1843, showing the three Chinese quarters, Lower Bazaar (today’s Bonham Strand area), UpperBazaar (today’s Gage Street area) and Tai Ping Shan, which appears in its initial developing form (indicated by the two short parallel blocks in dotted lines on the lower left of Lower Bazaar).  (Source: Public Records Office, Hong Kong)

 

In June 1843, two years and five months after the British hoisted the Union Jack on Possession Street to proclaim the takeover of Hong Kong Island, there were three areas in the newly fledged City of Victoria where emigrant Chinese settled (Evans 1970: 69-71) (Fig. 3).  They were:

  1. the downstream banks that correspond to the area across the road from today’s Central Market, along today’s Cochrane Street, Gutzlaff Street, Graham Street and Peel Street;
  2. the coastal land that corresponds to the area along today’s Jervois Street, Bonham Strand and Bonham Strand West;
  3. the area that would become the Crown Colony of Hong Kong’s first “Chinese Town”: Tai Ping Shan.

The early forms of these three Chinese quarters are shown on Gordon’s Map of 1843 (above), the earliest map depicting the City of Victoria in the new Crown Colony.  During this time, Tai Ping Shan was at the beginning of its development, as evident in the two short rows of yet-to-be-built development, marked in dotted lines.  By 1856, Tai Ping Shan had fully grown to its territorial extent, as shown on an 1856 Map of City of Victoria (Fig. 4).

 

HK in 1856

Fig. 4    Part of the 1856 Map of City of Victoria.  Compared with the Gordon’s Map of 1843 (Fig. 2), the three areas resided predominantly by Chinese were now fully developed and distinguished by a denser urban pattern than its more spacious surrounding lots that were designated for European houses and public buildings.  (Source: Public Records Office, Hong Kong)

 

As shown in the map Scheme for the Improvement of Tai Ping Shan (Fig. 5), dated 15 September 1866 (below), the fully developed Tai Ping Shan was an area roughly 300 m by 250 m and bounded by Caine Road in the south, Queen’s Road (today’s Queen’s Road Central) in the north, Sing Wong Lane (today’s Shing Wong Street) in the east and St. Stephen Street (today’s Po Yan Street) in the west.  By the eve of the bubonic plague outbreak in 1894, Tai Ping Shan was the main urban Chinese settlement in the City of Victoria, supporting a sizable percentage of the estimated 210,000 Chinese in Hong Kong (Pryor 1975: 65).

 

Tai Ping Shan

Fig. 5    The 1866 map (the date is shown under the signature of the Surveyor General) entitled “Scheme for the Improvement of Tai PingShan, showing the extent of district, as indicated by the smaller lots typically developed for Chinese shophouses.  (Source: Public Records Office, Hong Kong.)

 

3.0    Early Tong Lau in Hong Kong (Pre-statutory Control)


The earliest form of Hong Kong Tong Lau was found on the island’s major Chinese settlements, one of which was Tai Ping Shan.  Prior to the bubonic outbreak in 1894, the design of these buildings was broadly similar in appearance and construction with those found in towns and cities of Southern China during this period.  In Mr. Chadwick’s Report on the Sanitation Condition of Hong Kong (in Faure 1997: 33-46),[1] there is a section on “Chinese Houses,” which describes in detail with illustrations the Tong Lau in Tai Ping Shan in the 1880s (the report is dated to 1882).  A summary of the section is as follows:

 

3.1    Differences between Early Tong Lau in Hong Kong and their Counterparts in Southern China

Although the architecture of early Tong Lau in Hong Kong was broadly similar to those in Southern China, Chadwick observed that there were noticeable differences due to “European influence and example, but principally to the necessity for economy of space on account of the high price of land and the great cost of preparing level sites for building” (Chadwick’s Report, in Faure 1997: 34).  This means that the local conditions did have an effect in transforming even the early Tong Lau, which featured decorative elements inspired by Western Classical architecture and, more significantly, were more compact than their Mainland counterparts (Fig. 6).

 

Tai Ping Shan in the 1870s

Fig. 6    Tai Ping Shan in the 1870s, showing the earliest form of Hong Kong Tong Lau, which were broadly similar in appearance and construction with those found in towns and cities of Southern China during this period, but were different in decorative details and size.  (Source: Hong Kong Museum of History)

 

3.2    Materials and Construction of Early Hong Kong Tong Lau [2]

FoundationBecause of the sloping terrain of Tai Ping Shan (and most areas in the City of Victoria), the Tong Lau stood on “artificially prepared sites, part in bank, part in cutting.”  Chadwick observed that “basements or cellars under houses are unknown.”
FloorOn the ground floor, unglazed red tiles (Canton tiles) were used, but the floor was frequently left un-tiled, with exposed rammed earth.  Cookhouses and alleys were paved with granite blocks.  Upper floors consisted of floor planks of Chinese fir supported on round rafters that were flattened above to receive the planks (and below to receive the ceiling, if there was one).
WallsWalls were constructed of blue Canton brick (traditional Chinese grey brick) usually of inferior quality (“soft and very porous”).  Red bricks were more expensive and therefore rarely used.  Granite from local quarries was largely used for door jambs and lintels over shop fronts.  The walls were usually plastered but sometimes left fair-faced, with the brick surface rubbed smooth and neatly pointed in the traditional Chinese manner.
RoofThe roof was tiled with unglazed semicircular clay tiles laid with overlapping ends; the eaves tiles were ornamental and glazed.

 

3.3    Architectural Characters of Early Hong Kong Tong Lau (Figs. 7 and 8)

Building FrontageEach unit, of two to three storey high and between 13 to 16 feet wide (about 4 to 5 m), was separated from adjacent units by brick party walls.  A large unit for the wealthy was formed by uniting several narrow units by doors or archways in the party walls.
Building DepthThe building measured about 30 to 60 feet from front to back (about 9 to 18 m), and two rows of buildings were built back to back with a common back wall and no space between them (this would change with the post-plague Public Health and Buildings Ordinance 1903, which reduced the building depth and introduced a scavenging lane, or service back lane, for waste disposal).
Service AreasA space of about 7 feet deep (about 2 m) at the back of the building was separated by a wall from the rest of the building.  This is the “cookhouse,” which also served as the kitchen, toilet and the backyard.  Venting of cooking fire was by means of a 4 to 5 feet square (1.2 to 1.5 m square) “smoke hole” through the upper floor(s) and the roof, or simply through windows.  Chimneys were the exception.  Compliance to the Ordinance 8 of 1856 that required every house to be “provided with a latrine or privy and ashpit” was rarely observed.  The construction of waste water drainage was unregulated and often inadequate, if available.
Served AreasThe ground floor of a Tong Lau was used as shop space, but a cockloft was often built on the upper space in front of the partition wall of the cookhouse, and used as working or sleeping quarters.  The upper floor was partitioned into cabins of about 10 by 10 feet wide (about 3 m2) above which was a cockloft level that was similarly divided.  Each cabin housed an individual or a family, and Chadwick inspected one tenement unit and found five families of 16 people living on one floor.  Chadwick reported the case of a row of eight small houses that provided tenement lodging for 428 inhabitants, who were common labourers, each of whom had 230 cubic feet of space (about 20 m3) (Faure 1997: 46).  It was reported in 1874 edition of the Hong Kong Annual Report that pigs and poultry were kept inside buildings.

 

1880s shophouse

Fig. 7    Drawings depicting the section and plan of an early Tong Lau found at Tai Ping Shan in the early 1880s.  In the drawings, 1 = cookhouses; 2 = shop; 3 = smoke hole through the roof and floor; 4 = cockloft or platform above tenement cabins; 5 = tenement cabins; 6 = street in front of building.  (Source: Chadwick’s Report (1882) in Faure 1997: 34 and 35)

 

Tai Ping Shan

Fig. 8    Block plan of several rows of early Tong Lau at Tai Ping Shan, early 1880s.  (Source: Chadwick’s Report (1882) in Faure 1997: 44)


4.0    Statutory Control of Tong Lau in Post-plague Hong Kong


4.1    The First Statutory Control of Tong Lau: Public Health and Buildings Ordinance 1903

In conjunction with the first town plan for Singapore, the Jackson Plan, or Plan of the Town of Singapore of 1822, the authorities in Singapore issued a set of building regulations that control the design and construction of Chinese shophouses in Singapore in terms of appearance, public space provision, and construction and materials standards.  In contrast, the authorities of early Hong Kong imposed little statutory control on the architecture of Chinese shophouses other than that under Buildings and Nuisance Ordinance of 1856, which regulated the use of the building by prohibiting trades that would cause nuisance because of smell or noise.  Such trades were cited as “brasier, slaughterman, soap maker, sugar baker, fellmonger, melter of tallow, oilman, butcher, distiller, victualler or tavern-keeper, blacksmith, nightman, scavenger, or any other noisy or offensive trade.”

It was not until the beginning of the 20th century when Hong Kong had its first comprehensive set of enforceable building regulations under the Public Health and Buildings Ordinance 1903, which regulated living space standards and construction quality of Chinese shophouses.  These regulations were remedial measures after the outbreak of bubonic plague in the over-crowded Chinese quarters of Tai Ping Shan in 1894. 

The recommendations made in Mr. Chadwick’s Report on the Sanitation Condition of Hong Kong (1882) were resisted by both the European and the Chinese communities.  In essence, the argument against it was out of financial considerations, as it was felt that the higher standards for living spaces and better provision of latrine would cost more and thereby reduce available accommodation.  However, mindset changed with the epidemic outbreak of bubonic plague at Tai Ping Shan in 1894, which took a heavy toll in fatalities.  As Chadwick summarized the situation in his Preliminary Report on the Sanitary Condition of Hong Kong (dated 10 April 1902) presented to the Legislative Council (second paragraph of section 98, page 34):

. . . Now land is costly in Hongkong, either it has to be excavated in the hill-side, or reclaimed from the sea.  Naturally, the land-owner desires to get the best rental during the past twenty years, numerous Building Ordinances, drawn up by the Professional Advisors of the Government, have been brought before the Legislative Council, but in each case, many salutary provisions have been withdrawn or emasculated at the request of the Unofficial Members of Council, representing the landed interest.  The Government has hesitated to use its official majority.  Since the outbreak of the plague, the mercantile section of the community have [sic] realized that their interests are not quite independent of the health of the Chinese population. . . .

To urgently remedy the situation in the aftermath of the plague outbreak, public Ordinance was proposed in 1887 which stated that open space had to be provided at the rear of building, latrines must be included and there had to be a minimum of 8.5 m2 internal living space.  In 1888, a legal notice was drawn up and more notices were drawn up from 1887 to 1903.

An important recommendation that contributed to the Public Health and Buildings Ordinance of 1903 was made by Dr. W. J. Simpson, professor of hygiene at King's College, London, and lecturer in tropical hygiene at the London School of Tropical Medicine, for general improvement of sanitary conditions and stricter control over the design of Chinese tenement blocks which he described as follows:

The rooms, as a rule, are far too deep, the object of this depth being to subdivide each room into a number of cubicles for the accommodation of families or lodgers. Though there may be windows at each end of the room, the great depth materially obstructs the light to take an example from the better class of buildings, many of the houses that are being erected are eighty feet deep without lateral windows and contain long, narrow rooms of fifty-five feet in depth, by twelve or thirteen feet in width, lighted in front by a window and also in the rear by another window which looks into a backyard of twelve feet.[3]

From the recommendations made by Chadwick and Simpson arose the Public Health and Buildings Ordinance of 1903 which set new standards for the design and occupancy of Tong Lau and remained in force until 1935.  Some of the regulations derived from the ordinance that emphasized on maintaining natural lighting and ventilation for the building and the surrounding environment were:

  1. Provision of open space and a scavenging lane of at least 6 feet wide (about 1.8 m) behind buildings (Clause 179).  This means that rows of Tong Lau facing parallel streets could no longer be built back to back, and the back lane helped improve sanitary conditions by having the space to allow in lighting and ventilation, as well as for waste disposal.
     
  2. Building height limited to the width of the fronting street, and not more than four storeys, or higher than 76 ft (about 23 m) (Clause 188 (4) and (5)).  This controlled the building volume to ensure that public areas, in particular the surrounding streets, would receive adequate natural lighting and ventilation. 
     
  3. Building depth limited to 40ft (about 12 m) (Clause 151 (1)).  This was an attempt to curb the number of under lit and badly ventilated tenement cabins (or cubicles, in the words of Dr. W. J. Simpson in his quote above) in a long narrow building.


4.2    Statutory Control of Tong Lau prior to World War II: Buildings Ordinance 1935

The Buildings Ordinance 1935 and its accompanying regulations represent the final set of statutory control imposed upon the architecture of Tong Lau prior to the outbreak of the Pacific War (1941-45).  The next update of the building regulations would be in 1955, and this is outside the scope of this study, which focuses on the development of Tong Lau up to World War II.

The building regulations under Building Ordinance 1935 are essentially a continuation of those introduced in 1903, but with more stringent control:

  1. Building height limited to 3 storeys, unless constructed of fire-resistant materials, and limited to 5 storeys for domestic (Clause 87 (7)).
     
  2. Building depth limited to 35ft (about 11 m) (Clasue 74 (1)).  The shorter building depth than that allowed in the 1903 regulations would further limit the partitioning of dark and badly ventilated tenement cabins or cubicles.
     
  3. Adequate light and ventilation to be provided at every storey on every staircase (Clause 43 (3)).  This regulation would give the late pre-war Tong Lau its character-defining feature—a naturally lit and ventilated common staircase.

 


5.0    Different Generations of Tong Lau


5.1    Methodology

There has not been an attempt to categorize Hong Kong’s shophouses; the difficulty lies in determining a suitable basis for distinguishing the different variations.  The traditional means of differentiating by aesthetics alone is problematic for Hong Kong’s shophouses.  This is because many shophouses are of undeterminable or ambiguous architectural style, and shophouses of discernable but different architectural styles may be constructed during the same period.  In this report, the authors shall attempt a different approach in chronologically organizing the varieties of shophouses and differentiating them by means of the materials and construction techniques.

The development lifespan of Hong Kong’s shophouses lasted a relatively short time, about 120 years from the 1840s to the 1950s, before it was completely superseded by taller, bigger and more modern buildings.  As there is no in-depth baseline study, the categorization of Hong Kong’s shophouses explained in this section is based on the authors’ on-going comparative analysis of individual shophouses.  It is in the authors’ opinion that Hong Kong’s shophouse typology can be categorized into four generations, the details of which are elaborated below.

 

5.2    First Generation: the 19th-century Brick-and-timber Shophouse

Hong Kong’s first generation shophouses were typically built in the 19th century, starting in the 1840s, when builders from southern China were drawn by economic opportunities to the newly founded British colony of Hong Kong.  As there was no building control imposed on the design of shophouse, the builders replicated the southern-Chinese shophouse form they were familiar with.  These shophouses were constructed of walls of Chinese grey brick, floors of timber beams and boards, and a roof of timber beams and clay tiles.  

Shophouses of this period reflect the economy of construction and display the minimum amount of decorative details.  This is probably a direct reflection of the general state of the economy of the Chinese settlements in Hong Kong at the time.  Few extant examples exist in Hong Kong’s urban areas, and the only known example to date is the shophouse at No. 120 Wellington Street, completed in 1884, which once housed the famous Wing Woo Grocery.[4]  (Fig. 9)

 

Tai Ping Shan in the 1870s

Fig. 9a Southern Chinese shophouses at Taipingshan District in the 1870s.  (Source: Hong Kong Museum of History)

 

120 Wellington street

Fig. 9b The 1884 shophouse at No. 120 Wellington Street.  (Source: Lee Ho Yin)

 

5.3    Second Generation: the early 20th-century Transitional Shophouse

Hong Kong’s shophouses entered into the second generation with the southern Chinese shophouse design being modified by the newly introduced statutory regulations as well as new building materials and construction techniques.  In terms of regulations, the outbreak of the bubonic plague at Taipingshan District in 1894 brought about Hong Kong’s first regulatory control of building design under the Public Health and Buildings Ordinance of 1903, which reshaped the original shophouse into a form with local characteristics (see: Lee and DiStefano 2010, 10-11, for the regulation-generated characteristics).  

In terms of materials and techniques, reinforced concrete construction started to appear on shophouses from the 1900s to the 1920s. [5]  Early application of reinforce concrete was limited to the construction of cantilevered balconies on the building façade.  A good example is the Blue House at No, 72-74A Stone Nullah Lane, completed in 1922.  (Fig. 10).  The 1920s saw the increasing use of reinforced concrete in shophouse construction, resulting in the use of the technique for floor slabs towards the end of the 1920s.  The Shanghai Street Shophouses Nos. 600-606 and 612-614 probably belong to this category, given the reinforced concrete floor slabs and the lack of distinctively Art Deco decorative details, which did not begin to appear on shophouses until the very late 1920s. 

 

Stone nullah lane

Fig. 10a A colourized photograph of 1910 vintage showing a block of second-generation shophouses of a similar design to the Blue House, located at No, 64-70A Stone Nullah Lane (adjacent to the site of the Blue House, which had not been constructed at the time the picture was taken  This particular block of shophouses appears in a vintage postcard that dates back to 1907. (Source: Cheng Po-hung)

 

Stone nullah lane

Fig. 10b A picture of the Blue House at No, 72-74A Stone Nullah Lane, taken at about the same angle as the 1910 photo, featuring an early form of reinforced concrete construction in the cantilevered balconies.  (Source: Lee Ho Yin)

 

5.4    Third Generation: the Pre-war Reinforced Concrete Shophouse

Hong Kong’s shophouse typology entered into the third generation in the 1930s, when reinforced concrete became a mature technology that saw widespread application in building construction.  Shophouses belonging to this generation were fully constructed of reinforced concrete, including the floor slabs and the flat roof deck.  By this time, Art Deco had become a dominant architectural style worldwide, and shophouses that belong to this period feature varying degrees of Art Deco decorative treatment.  

Aesthetically, shophouses built in the earlier part of the 1930s tend to be of an eclectic mix of Classicism (or Stripped Classicism, which became popular worldwide starting in the late 1920s) and Art Deco, a reflection of the state of transition from a classical to a modern vocabulary.  An extant example is Lui Seng Chun at No. 119 Lai Chi Kok Road, completed in 1931, which is Classical in its general appearance, but incorporates Art Deco-inspired decorative details.  Shophouses built in the later part of the 1930s tend to be more homogenously Art Deco in their design.  An extant example is the row of Art Deco shophouses at Nos. 190-204 and 210-212 Prince Edward Road West, completed in 1930.  (Fig. 11)

Shanghai Street Shophouses Nos. 620, 622, 624 and 626 are an interesting case, as the mixed-style aesthetics seems to suggest that it is a third-generation shophouse design.  However, its combination of brick wall construction and reinforced concrete floor slabs suggests that they may be a product of the transitional generation, possibly in the late 1920s.

 

Lui Seng Chun

Fig. 11a Lui Seng Chun, a 1931 shophouse at No. 119 Lai Chi Kok Road, designed in a mixed Classical and Art Deco style. (Source: Lee Ho Yin)

 

Prince Edward Road West

Fig. 11b The 1930 shophouses at No. 190-204 and 210-212 Prince Edward Road West, which are clearly of the Art Deco style.  (Source: Urban Renewal Authority)


5.5    Fourth Generation: the Post-war Reinforced Concrete Shophouse

Property development in Hong Kong came to a standstill with the outbreak of the Pacific War in 1941, and the recovery of the property market from the end of the war in 1945 kept pace with Hong Kong’s general post-war economic resurgence.[6]  As the economy recovered in a steady pace through the 1950s, the Hong Kong shophouse typology entered into the fourth and final generation of development until it was replaced by bigger and taller developments in the 1960s.

The widespread application of reinforce concrete in the construction of shophoues during this period reflected the maturity and affordability of the technology.  Shophouses of this generation are typically six-storey high and of austere appearance.  Extant examples are many, such as the two units of inconspicuous shophouses at Nos. 29 and 31 Bridges Street, completed in 1952, and the standalone shophouse at No. 31 Wing Fung Street, completed in 1957.  (Fig. 12)

 

Bridges Street

Fig. 12a The 1952 shophouses at Nos. 29 and 31 Bridges Street. (Source: Lee Ho Yin)

 

Wing Fung Street

Fig. 12b The 1957 shophouse at No. 31 Wing Fung Street.  (Source: Lee Ho Yin)

 

6.0    References

Most of the following references are available either on-line or at the University of Hong Kong Libraries (under the Hong Kong Collection).

AGC Design Ltd. (Tony Lam, Lynne Distefano and Lee Ho Yin).  “Heritage Assessment Report for Conservation Approach to a Shophouse Cluster.”  A consultancy report for the Urban Renewal Authority, May 2008.

Bristow, Rogers.  Land-use Planning in Hong Kong: History, Policies and Procedures.  London: Oxford University Press, 1984.

Chadwick, Osbert.  Mr. Chadwick’s Report on the Sanitary Condition of Hong Kong.  London: Colonial Office, Nov. 1882.

________.  Preliminary Report on the Sanitary Condition of Hong Kong.  Hong Kong: Public Works Office, 10 April 1902.

Cheung, Ferdinand K. H..  “Tenement Buildings: In Light of their Origin.”  HKIA Journal, Issue No. 24 (2nd Quarter 2000), 78-87.

Evans, Dafydd Emrys.  “Chinatown in Hong Kong: The Beginnings of Taipingshan.”  Journal of the Hong Kong Branch Royal Asiatic Society, Vol. 10 (1970), 69-78.

Faure, David, ed.  Society: A Documentary History of Hong Kong.  Hong Kong: Hong Kong University Press, 1997.

Leeming, Frank.  Street Studies in Hong Kong: Localities in a Chinese City.  Hong Kong: Oxford University Press, 1977.

Lee, Ho Yin.  “The Singapore Shophouse: An Anglo-Chinese Urban Vernacular.”  Chap. in Asia’s Old Dwellings: Tradition, Resilience, and Change, edited by Ronald G. Knapp, 115-134.  New York: Oxford University Press, 2003.

Lee, Ho Yin and Lynne DiStefano.  “Statement of Significance (Heritage Assessment) of Shanghai Street Shophouses, No. 600-625 Shanghai Street, Mong Kok.”  A consultancy report for the Urban Renewal Authority, 6 May 2014.

Lung, P. Y. David, Ivan C. C. Ho and Lee Ho Yin.  Tong Lau: A Compilation of Measured Drawings of Tenement Buildings in Urban Areas of Hong Kong.  Hong Kong: Department of Architecture, The University of Hong Kong, 2003.

Pryor, Edward George.  “The Great Plague of Hong Kong.”  Journal of the Hong Kong Branch Royal Asiatic Society, Vol. 15 (1975), 61-70.

Tong, Wai-yan Christine.  “Documenting the historical and spatial significance of Wing Woo grocery and provisional shop.”  MSc(Conservation) diss., The University of Hong Kong, 2008.

吳友如著,庄子灣編 [Wu, Youru (author), Zhuang Ziwan (editor)]。  《十九世紀中國風情畫二百圖》。  長沙:湖南美術出版社,1998


Additional notes to text:

  1. Osbert Chadwick (1844-1913) was a former Royal Engineer commissioned by the Colonial Office in 1881 to investigate the sanitary condition of Hong Kong.  This investigation was in response to complaints from the commander of the local military garrisons that poor public sanitation was the main cause of illness and death among his soldiers.  The result of the investigation was published in 1882 as Mr. Chadwick’s Report on the Sanitation Condition of Hong Kong (more commonly known as Chadwick’s Report), and the section “Chinese Houses” became the basis for Hong Kong’s first comprehensive set of building regulations, Public Health and Buildings Ordinance 1903.
  2. All citations in this section are from Chadwick’s Report (1882), in Faure 1997.
  3. Second Memorandum from W. J. Simpson to James Stewart Lockhart, Sanitary Board Office, 20 Mar. 1902, p. 15, in Blue Book Reports on Bubonic Plague 1894-1907 (also quoted in Pryor 1975: 68).
  4. See: Tong 2008, 8 (accessible from the HKU Scholars Hub at: http://hub.hku.hk/handle/10722/56091
  5. This coincided with the availability of locally produced cement in 1890; see: the Hong Kong Memory website at
    http://www.hkmemory.hk/collections/prewar_industry/topics/topic10/index.....
  6. An indication of Hong Kong’s economic situation during and after W.W.II is the significant decline in population from a pre-war peak of 1.6 million to a post-war low of 0.65 million, which had economic implications in terms of the labour force and GDP.  Source: http://www.city-data.com/world-cities/Hong-Kong-History.html

Background to this document:

A Resource Paper for the 
Antiquities and Monuments Office, Architectural Services Department, Buildings Department, Commissioner for Heritage’s Office, Urban Renewal Authority

Further revised and updated version, 4 May 2015
Revised and updated version, 19 April 2010
Original version, 10 December 2009

This resource paper was originally part of the “Heritage Assessment Report for Conservation Approach to a Shophouse Cluster” (2008) commissioned by the Urban Renewal Authority (URA) and prepared by AGC Design Ltd., and advised by Dr. Lee Ho Yin and Prof. Lynne DiStefano.  A revised and updated version, dated 10 December 2009, became a resource paper for distribution to the Antiquities and Monuments Office (AMO) and the Commissioner for Heritage’s Office (CHO).  This version, dated 4 May 2015, further revised and updated, has been distributed to AMO, CHO, URA as well as the Architectural Services Department and Buildings Department.  


Further reading:

Elsewhere on Gwulo you can see photos of shophouses, then if you'd like to go visit some please check our map of shophouses.


Thanks to Ho Yin and Lynne for allowing us to post their research here on Gwulo, and to Jennifer Lang for making it possible.

Guest posts are very welcome, so if you've written about old Hong Kong and you'd like to share it with Gwulo's readers, please let me know.

Regards, David

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c.1928 View from the Peak over Central and the harbour

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c.1928 View from the Peak over Central and the harbour

Where: No prizes for identifying the location of this one - we're up on the Peak looking out over Central and across the harbour to TST. It's been a popular subject for photos over the years, so I like to compare photos from different years to see how the view changes.

When: Look at the junction of Pedder Street and Des Voeux Road, and you'll see an empty spot where a building has been demolished. Here's a closer look at that section of the photo, with the site of the missing building marked in red.

Pedder St / DVRC / Ice House St / QRC

It was the north wing of the Hong Kong Hotel [1], destroyed by fire in 1926. Here's how it used to look:

c.1922 The best hotel in Hong Kong

Next look to the right where I've marked a building in green. That was another hotel, the King Edward Hotel [2], at the junction with Ice House Street:

1920s Ice House Street

In 1929, that was also damaged by a serious fire. Here's that zoomed in section again, followed by a similar view from c.1930:

Pedder St / DVRC / Ice House St / QRC

 

c.1930 Pedder St / DVRC / Ice House St / QRC

Look at the King Edward Hotel in the later photo and note that the roof is gone and the walls are held up by scaffolding while the interior is re-built. The building was re-opened in 1931, but as a bank and offices instead of a hotel.

Other changes between the two photos are a couple of new buildings that have appeared on Queen's Road. I've marked them in yellow and blue.

The blue, triangular-shaped building in the 1930 photo is at the corner with Zetland Street. It opened that year as the Industrial & Commercial Bank Building [3], then soon after was renamed to the Asia Life Building. I haven't identified the yellow building yet - suggestions welcome!

Returning to the date of the main photo, we know it was taken between the fires in 1926 and 1929, so I'll guess 1928. Please let me know if you spot anything that pins it down more accurately.

Who: I wonder who made this? Turning it over, we can see it was printed on photographic paper from "K Ltd", for sale as a postcard.

Back of postcard

But the quality of the printing wasn't good. Before I cleaned it up, it had light-coloured patches and dark spots.

Light patches

 

 

Dark spots

These aren't recent damage, they were in the original print. 

I thought it could be one of the postcards sold shortly after the end of the second world war. Pre-war negatives were pressed in to service and printed for sale to the visiting military forces. The negatives may well have suffered damage from mould and dust during the war years. Unfortunately the Playle's website [4] suggests the "K Ltd" paper wasn't sold after 1936, which puts an end to that line of thought!

Then if it was sold in the 1930s, who would sell (or buy!) such a poor quality postcard?

Gwulo photo ID: A079

Prints of this photo are available to buy in the shop.

References:

  1. The north wing of the Hong Kong Hotel
  2. The King Edward Hotel
  3. Industrial & Commercial Bank Building / Asia Life Building
  4. Real Photo Postcard Stamp Boxes at Playle.com

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"I got married in King George VI's bedroom"

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If you're looking for a memorable wedding day, Mabel Large's story is hard to beat!

Here's Mabel a few weeks before the wedding, when she was still Mabel Redwood:

Mabel Redwood & Mr A Raven in Stanley Camp

The photo was taken Stanley Civilian Internment Camp, not long after liberation in August 1945.

Mabel and over three thousand others had been interned there by the Japanese since 1942. During those lean years, very few photos had been taken. So when the British fleet arrived to liberate Hong Kong, the Navy's photographers made up for lost time. The press were hungry for news and photos of the former captives, and not just in Britain - this photo went to America, see the note on the back marked "New York Bureau":

Back of photo

The note reads:

OB 773163. . . . NEW YORK BUREAU

SUBSTITUTE RING FOR HONG KONG INTERNEE
HONG KONG - MR A. RAVEN, 70-YEAR-OLD YORKSHIRE
ARCHITECT, FITS 23-YEAR-OLD MABEL REDWOOD, OF
GILLINGHAM, KENT, WITH A WEDDING RING MADE
FROM A 10-CENT HONG KONG PIECE. BOTH WERE
HELD PRISONER BY JAPS IN HONG KONG. DURING
YEARS OF JAP OCCUPATION OF THE CROWN COLONY,
WOMEN SOLD THEIR GOLD RINGS FOR FOOD. THE LATHE
ON WHICH MR. RAVEN MADE SUBSTITUTES AND ESSEN-
TIAL ARTICLES WAS BUILT FROM SALVAGED SCRAP.
#1A CAN BING 9-28-45
CREDIT (BRITISH OFFICIAL PHOTO FROM ACME)(RM)

The note is a bit misleading, as the ring in the photo wasn't Mabel's, and she wasn't married yet. She was engaged though, to fellow internee Clifton Large. They'd met in Stanley Camp, and when they got engaged in 1944 a special celebration was called for:

"Clifton sold a broken watch to a Japanese Guard. the gold case being worth a few Yen. With this he bought a piece of fatty bacon, 2 eggs and 6 spring onions. I cooked these in an IXL jam tin over a fire ... using a few pieces of parquet flooring from the floor in the room I shared with my Mother, two sisters and two other women."

The end of the war in 1945 had put away worries about food and survival, but brought new uncertainties for Mabel and Clifton. POWs and internees from Hong Kong were to be sent 'home' to recuperate, threatening a long separation for the couple. Mabel explains:

"Several hundred of us – including my Mother and me – boarded the Canadian Pacific liner, the Empress of Australia, on September 10th. We were bound for England.

My two sisters expected to follow on another ship while Clifton, being Canadian, was expecting to be repatriated to Canada with his parents.

The Empress sailed the next morning, arriving in Singapore a few days later. We sat in the harbour for 10 days while those in charge decided where we would go. Eventually off we went to the Phillipines – and there we sat for several days. All around us in Manila Bay were the wrecks of sunken ships, and The Empress was tied up to the mast of one of these.

Finally we set off for Colombo, Ceylon. We arrived there on October 2nd."

Mabel's sister Barbara had to wait almost two weeks before her turn came, leaving Hong Kong on HMS Smiter. Barbara's diary shows that Clifton had ended up on the same ship, not heading straight to Canada as expected:

"22 Sep: As we sailed about 7pm I really thought 'This is the last of Hong Kong.' As we passed the 'Duke of York' she bugle-called us, the men on board stood to attention, and then everybody cheered everybody else.

23 Sep: To picture show last evening, on hangar deck. It was 'In Old Oklahama' with John Wayne and Martha Scott. Clifton and I sat on a ladder at the side and told each other how ludicrous it was to be sitting on an aircraft carrier, watching a film.

27 Sep: Clifton anxious that Mabel 'won't wait for him'. We prayed that she would.

1 Oct: Out on deck early to see hazy coastline of Ceylon. Clifton got one of officers to signal Block House re 'Empress of Australia', to find it is due here tonight or tomorrow - but whether or not the original passengers from HK (including Mum and Mabel) have been dumped elsewhere we don't know.

Back to Mabel:

"When I awoke on my Wedding Day in 1945, I was on board the Empress of Australia, in Colombo Harbour, and thought my fiance was miles away, in Hong Kong.

I was sitting on the deck when someone tapped my shoulder...and there was Clifton.

He had arrived in Colombo on an Aircraft Carrier the previous day and was billeted nearby to await a ship going to Canada. Clifton’s Mother and Father, and my two sisters also came on the Aircraft Carrier.

Having been separated once we decided to see if we could get married on the ship, and Clifton went off to see what he could do.

I found my Mother and told her what we planned to do. She was in the cabin we shared with 8 other women. The Steward in charge had told us that we were in King George VI's cabin, used by him when he and Queen Elizabeth travelled to Canada shortly before the war started. It was quite a nice cabin, but I’m sure it didn’t have 10 bunks in it when the King used it. When I wallowed in the bathtub I used to think of the King doing the same thing.

I should describe my Wedding Clothes here: I wore a blouse made from my Mother’s petticoat....a pair of blue shorts made from a piece of curtain given to me by a friend on my 21st birthday...a bra I made from Clifton’s Scout Scarf, one half blue and one half yellow, and a pair of underpants made from a mosquito net...and no shoes.

Bra
Mabel's Scout Scarf Bra

 

Clifton wore shorts and shirt, and a pair of sandals I made him, using rubber from an old car tyre for the soles.

A woman in the cabin fetched her husband and they were witnesses. The ring we used was made by Clifton...a Hong Kong 10 cent piece with the centre drilled out and filed.

Ring and badge
Wedding ring made from a 10-cent coin

 

After the short ceremony the Priest wrote out a Certificate on a scrap of paper. We said goodbye to my Mother and left the Ship.

And that is how we came to be married in King George VI’s bedroom on board the Empress of Australia in 1945, with a 10c Wedding Ring!"

Mabel & Clifton's Wedding
Clifton & Mabel on their Wedding Day

That evening, Barbara wrote in her diary "Mabel and Clifton are married! I'm terribly happy for them, I'm sure they were made for each other ", and today, almost 71 years later, she adds "They had over 60 years together. Clifton died in 2006, Mabel is now 93."

Mabel Large in 2016
Mabel in 2016

 


Thanks to Mabel for sharing her memorable day with us, and to Barbara for her all help preparing this. Thanks also to regular contributor "Moddsey" for alerting me when he saw the Stanley Camp photo of Mabel appear for sale on eBay.

Further reading:

Finally, if you lived in Hong Kong in the 1960s, you might remember Mabel's husband, Clifton Large. He was a fluent Cantonese speaker, and presented the "Rediffusion Television Jigsaw" program on TV.

 

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Hong Kong in colour

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This newsletter usually features a black & white photo, so let's see some colour for a change.

"1960'S SLIDES...SCENES & VIEWS IN HONG KONG"

That's how they were described on eBAY when I bought them.

A good thing about slides is they often have a date printed on the cardboard frame. These show "AUG 69", when the Peak still towered over Central's buildings ...

 

1969. Hong Kong island from across the harbour

 

... and today's Admiralty district was still very low-rise.

 

c.1968 view of Central & Admiralty

 

We'll see plenty more views from the harbour, as there is at least one in every tourist's album! Other popular scenes come from the standard tour around Hong Kong island, or a day trip to the New Territories:

 

Old ladies in walled village

 

Looking at the walls, I guess these ladies were photographed in Kam Tin walled village.

If we're lucky, we also get a couple of shots like these that are different from the usual tourist scenes. Any thoughts on where they were taken?

 

Street scene

 

Densely packed buildings in Kowloon

 

"HONG KONG : SKYSCRAPERS IN CLOSE-UP 1980s"

Our next photographer likes construction. We still get the classic tourist views:

 

Nighttime view of island from TST

 

Gloucester Road traffic jam

 

But buildings are his preference (Admiralty doesn't look low-rise any more!):

 

Buildings in Admiralty

 

Buildings in Admiralty

 

If the photo can include a digger, so much the better...

 

Buildings in Admiralty

 

In the next view he's looking at some larger construction project underway. Does anyone recognise what was being built?

 

Building site

 

"Are the 1980s too recent to count as history?"

Sometimes I'm asked if modern photos are suitable for posting here on Gwulo. I answer that if a photo captures a change, it's good to see. So this is my favourite slide in the set. It catches the old tidal basin at HMS Tamar being filled in:

 

Filling in the tidal basin at HMS Tamar

 

There aren't any dates printed on these slides, but they weren't taken in the 1980s - the tidal basin wasn't filled in until the 1990s. The descriptions on eBAY aren't always accurate!

 

"VINTAGE CONNAUGHT ROAD JAL AD HK COLOUR SLIDE"

Aahh, "Vintage"... must be worth a high price!

 

Connaught Road seafront

 

The first set two sets we saw were taken by visiting amateur photographers. This one is from a set that was taken professionally, then duplicated and sold to tourists. These commercial slides often fade badly - we'll see some examples in later newsletters. This one has held its colour pretty well though.

The slide has "CONNAUGHT ROAD C" stamped on the cardboard frame. We're looking at the section of Connaught Road between Gilman Street (just out of sight on the left) and Rumsey Street (just past the white Marine Department building at the right). We can see the same section of seafront in the 1969 photo at the top of the page. By 1969 several of the old shophouses shown here had been demolished and replaced by office buildings, so this is an earlier photo from the late 50s or early 60s.

 

"SLIDE CASTLE PEAK HOTEL KOWLOON HONG KONG 1950's VINTAGE AERIAL VIEW "

Vintage again!

 

Castle Peak Hotel

 

Another commercial slide, this time showing the peaceful view across Castle Peak Road to Lantau. If anyone remembers visiting this hotel, what was it like? I guess it is the brown-roofed building behind the trees, but can you confirm?

 


If you have any slides or photos of old Hong Kong that need a good home, please contact me!


 

If you've enjoyed seeing these, let me know and I'll take a look at some more slides in a future newsletter.

Regards, David

PS you can click / tap on any of the photos above to see a larger version and any extra information we have about it.

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A wander through Happy Valley's history

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On Monday morning I met Phil at Times Square, then off we set to see what we could find. We were heading for Fung Fai Terraces as an appetiser, to look at the old buildings there.

We followed Wong Nai Chung Road along the west side of the racecourse - the side where all the cemeteries are. The road was widened when the Aberdeen Tunnel flyover was built in the 1970s, pushing back the cemeteries' walls. This gateway at St. Michael's cemetery looks as though it pre-dated the move, and was successfully dismantled then rebuilt afterwards:

 

St. Michael's Cemetery

 

Here's a sleepy view of this area from the 1920s:

 

c.1925 Happy Valley

 

When we reached the Sanatorium, we followed the road round to the right, till we came to Village Road. On the right-hand side of the road is a big old retaining wall, with a gap in the middle and stairs leading up either side. Here's a view from the mid-1920s, showing the wall and stairs (the photo shows it from the opposite direction, so here the walls and stairs are on the left of the road):

 

Fung Fai Terrace

 

Above the wall are the Fung Fai Terraces, built on two levels. The buildings on the lower level are all complete in this photo. Behind them you can see another retaining wall and stairs, with the upper terrace formed, but nothing built yet. 

The buildings on the lower terrace were completed first, but also re-developed first. Today only #2 remains from the original lower terrace buildings, just one half of one building. Several old buildings are still standing on the upper terrace though, so that's where we went.

From Village Road we climbed the first staircase, then cut between the buildings (a small shelter for the security guard marks the passageway) to reach the upper staircase.

 

Fung Fai Terraces

 

Look down at the steps, and we can see the land is made up from two lots, with the dividing line running right down the middle of the staircase:

 

Fung Fai Terraces

 

Then look up. There's a small ledge built into the wall. Did it used to support one of those stone signs that showed the name of the terrace?

 

Fung Fai Terraces

 

Up the stairs, and then a pause to admire the two pairs of original buildings that still stand here. The pair on the right are numbers 23 & 24.

 

Fung Fai Terraces

 

Hmm, looking at the photo now, it doesn't look as attractive as I remember, with all those air-cons, peeling paint, and aluminium window frames! But look a little closer and there are all sorts of pretty details:

 

Fung Fai Terraces

 

Fung Fai Terraces

 

The other pair of original buildings are numbers 16 & 17, along to the left. See how high the ceilings are?

 

Fung Fai Terraces

 

They've left the upper windows open to let the hot air out: 

 

Fung Fai Terraces

 

Fung Fai Terraces

 

The floors still in good shape too:

 

Fung Fai Terraces

 

Here's the wall that runs along in front of 16 & 17. Would any wall experts reading like to estimate a date from the style?

 

Fung Fai Terraces

 

Walking down the slope from the upper terraces, Phil spotted a small concrete balcony that juts out. We didn't have any good ideas for when and why that was built.

 

Fung Fai Terraces

 

At the bottom of the slope, this entrance still has its stone sign in place:

 

Fung Fai Terraces

 

Back out onto Village Road, we followed the road up to the junction with Shan Kwong Road. On the corner is this building that reminds me of the building at the bottom of Old Bailey Street. :

 

Junction of Shan Kwong & Village Roads

 

Here's the front view. Was there was another half to it originally?

 

Junction of Shan Kwong & Village Roads

 

And over across the street, one of the old T-shaped iron street signs:

 

Shan Kwong Road

 

We turned right, to walk up Shan Kwong Road. If you live near here you probably don't think these old-style signs are an endangered species. Shan Kwong Road has two!

 

Shan Kwong Road

 

The sign is on the wall of Hong Kong's most colourful school building:

 

Po Kok school

 

It is a Buddhist primary school, standing next to and downhill from the the Tung Lin Kok Yuen, a Buddhist educational institution for women. Both were founded by Lady Clara Hotung, Sir Robert Hotung's second wife.

Between the two sites is a narrow lane, with a much more subdued appearance.

 

Entrance to Jewish Cemetery

 

The Star of David on the gateposts is the clue to what's inside. The gateposts mark the entrance to the Jewish Cemetery.

At first glance the gates look as though they are locked with a heavy chain, but in fact they just need a good push to open - the cemetery is open to the public. It's much smaller than the cemeteries down the hill, so it doesn't take long to walk around.

Here are the names that caught my eye:

 

Alexander Laihovetsky

 

Alexander is the grandfather of Gwulo contributor Geoff Wellstead. He has written about his grandfather, and also posted many interesting photos of Hong Kong from the 1920s - 60s from his family collection.

The grandest graves in the cemetery both belong to the family of Emanuel Belilios. The older grave is for his son, David:

 

David Belilios

 

And the newer is for his widow, Sema.

 

Sema Belilios

 

(The inscription describes her as the ".. dearly beloved relict of ...". "Relict" is an old-fashioned word for "widow".)

Here's the oldest stone in the cemetery, built into the back wall. It isn't a gravestone, instead it commemorates the opening of the cemetery in 1855:

 

Plaque commemorating the opening of the Jewish Cemetery

 

Pearl Steinberg's grave caught my eye as an early Russian grave. Hong Kong's Russian community grew in numbers after the 1917 revolution sent White Russians fleeing from their country. But here was an elderly Russian lady who lived in Hong Kong many years before that. I wonder what brought her to Hong Kong?
 
Pearl Steinberg

 

Just one letter difference in the family name, this is the grave of Jacob Sternberg, who died aged 15 months old. We've seen the name Sternberg before, as his father Moritz published many of the old postcards of Hong Kong that we've seen here on Gwulo.

 

Jacob Sternberg

 

Next are several members of the Weill family, starting with Maurice. He died young, aged 34.

 

Maurice Weill

 

Nearby is the grave of his younger brother Albert:

 

Albert Weill

 

But it's Albert's wife Rosie we've heard most about, as she is mentioned in several of the accounts of wartime life in Hong Kong.

 

Rosie Weill

 

Rosie survived the war, but two of her sons did not. Maurice died in Shanghai, while Leon died as a POW in Shamshupo:

 

Leon Weill

 

Another grave nearby records two brothers from the Goldenberg family who both died in late 1941. 

 

Charles & Isaac Goldenberg

 

Isaac was killed in action during the fighting on the 23rd of December. But his younger brother Charles had died the previous month, probably from illness as Hong Kong was still at peace then.

The last name I recognise is Siegfried Komor:

 

Siegfried Komor

 

Probably one half of Komor & Komor , the "Art & Curio Experts":

 

1920s Komor and Komor

 

Leaving the cemetery, we walked a short way uphill to admire the Tung Lin Kok Yuen.

 

Tung Lin Kok Yuen

 

The roof is covered up for maintenance at the moment, but you can see its colours are much plainer than the school next door.

 

Tung Lin Kok Yuen

 

Back down hill, and walking along Tsui Man Street there's a view of the back of 54, Village Road.

 

Rear view of 54, Village Road

 

The front looks even better, but we were men on a mission so the front view will have to wait for another day. We were heading uphill to that grid of streets with the botanical theme: Briar Ave., Broom Rd., Green Ln., etc, to admire some of the buildings up there.

We made a minor detour into Hip Wo Lane, to take a peep into its Air Raid Tunnel entrance:

 

Looking in to the Blue Pool Road ARP tunnel

 

And spot another old street sign as a bonus.

 

Hip Wo Lane

 

Then we carried on up to the corner of Holly Road and Blue Pool Road, to see the first of those low-rise buildings.

 

92 Blue Pool Road

 

A house with a garden! Don't see many of those in Hong Kong.

Walk on up to the junction of Broom Road and:

 

Blue Pool Road

 

Where you'll see this three-storey building with round windows and lots of curves:

 

Blue Pool Road

 

Something unusual in these roads is that although many of the buildings here have been re-developed, they've kept to the height of the old building. That's even more unusual than a house with a garden - any ideas why this has happened?

There's a mirror-image of this building further along the street, just next to the Green Lane staircase.

 

House on Broom Road

 

If you compare the old and the new buildings, you can see why there is the temptation to re-develop. By cutting away the platform and lowering the ceilings, they've managed to squeeze five storeys into the space of three!

Before we leave the area, let's just check my favourite bollards in Hong Kong are still there at the top of the Green Lane staircase.

 

Old-style bollards at Green Lane

 

All present and correct, we may proceed.

Walking down Blue Pool Road, Phil spotted this odd ruin.

 

Ruin on Blue Pool Road

 

There's quite a drop inside, and you can see the curve of the original retaining wall in the background.

 

Ruin on Blue Pool Road

 

These days it is used as a rubbish tip, but if you look at the girders that hang down from the ceiling, and especially at the rollers on the girder, it looks as though it was once used as a workshop.

 

Ruin on Blue Pool Road

 

Does anyone know it's history?

At the junction with Ventris Road, steps lead up to a small temple. I've never been in to take a look, so we put that right. The main temple is dedicated to Tam Kung:

 

Tam Kung temple

 

Tam Kung temple

 

And a few steps further up the hill there is a small Tin Hau temple:

 

Tin Hau temple

 

They were built in 1901, when the original village was still standing. Remember that 1920s photo of Fung Fai Terraces we saw earlier? It was cropped from this larger view:

 

1924 Happy Valley

 

The terrace is on the left of the photo, while the jumble of low roofs on the right was the old Wongneichong Village.

We walked back down from the temple, and set off for Caroline Hill via Ventris and Link Roads. A foundation stone at St. Paul's school caught my eye. We've been talking about Douglas Crozier recently, and he laid this stone in 1960.

 

Foundation stone at St. Paul's

 

Coming down the other side of Link Road, Phil stopped to take a photo of a school with the catchy name:

The Po Leung Kuk Gold & Silver Society Pershing Tsang School.

Phil is working his way through the movies that have been filmed in Hong Kong, identifying the locations they used for filming, then writing about them on his website. He spotted this school building in Double Impact - Jean Claude Van Damme (1991). At the bottom of the hill he pointed out the old CAS HQ and EMSD buildings next to the South China Athletic Association. They were used in Cracker: White Ghost - Robbie Coltrane (1996).

Turns out neither of us had ever been to the Race Course Fire Memorial. We knew it was nearby, so out came the online map, which showed the path to it started by the Hong Kong Stadium. When we got there we found a helpful sign:

 

Sign to racecourse fire memorial

 

Except the sign says it shuts at midday, and my phone showed it was 11:56! Surely they'll let us in if we can get there before 12? Off we set, huffing and puffing up the steps. Would we make it in time?

Turns out we needn't have worried because:

  1. Nobody came to lock the gate at 12, and
  2. Even if they had, you can just step over the low wall next to the gate!

 

Entrance to racecourse fire memorial

 

It's an impressive structure:

 

Racecourse fire memorial

 

It commemorates the 600+ people who were killed in the 1918 tragedy when fire broke out in the temporary stands at the racecourse.

By then we were ready for lunch, so walked over to Tai Hang. Both the places I had in mind were closed, but walking back and for meant we got to see a few more old buildings:

 

Tai Hang building

 

Tai Hang building

 

Tai Hang

 

I hope you've enjoyed the walk. If you spot anything interesting when you're out and about in Hong Kong, please take a picture and let us know.

Regards, David

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Old HK in Taipei

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I spent last weekend in Taipei, and before I went I asked in the Forum for any recommendations of Gwulo-y places to visit. Thomas replied suggesting Fort San Domingo in Tamsui. It's easy to get to from Taipei, so that's where we went.

We picked up this map from the information office near Tamsui station. A Hong Kong name caught my eye - can you spot it?

Tamsui map #1

Douglas Lapraik was an important businessman in 19th-century Hong Kong. I was curious to find out about his connection with Tamsui, and as the building is on the way to the fort we called in there first.

 

Douglas Lapraik & Co.

"First Examination Site", Douglas Lapraik & Co.

The site is described as:

Douglas Lapraik & Co. Warehouses

Originally founded by the namesake Scottish trader in Hong Kong, Douglas Lapraik & Co. established regulalrly scheduled shipping services between Taiwan and China in the late 19th century. The business was prosperous and the company soon dominated the routes. Its facilities in Tamsui once included warehouses, living quarters, and docks by the river. As the only two buildings that still gracefully stand, Douglas Lapraik & Co. Warehouses now provide spaces for special events and exhibitions.

The two remaining buildings are the smaller "First Examination Site" shown above, and a larger "Import Warehouse" behind:

"Import Warehouse", Douglas Lapraik & Co.

Only the smaller building was open when we visited. The ceiling shows it has been carefully renovated:

Ceiling in the "First Examination Site" building

Though most of the information on the wall is in Chinese, they also have a tri-lingual (Chinese / English / Japanese) book about the buildings and their history. The helpful lady at the information desk will lend you her copy to take a look.

 

Treaties

Two treaties framed the golden years of Douglas Lapraik & Co.'s operations in Tamsui. First came the Tientsin (Tianjin) Treaty of 1858, which opened up several Chinese ports to foreign trade. The list included Tamsui, though the foreigners would have to wait until 1862 til they could actually start trading there.

I don't know how quickly Douglas Lapraik & Co. started sailing to Tamsui, but they were definitely sailing there by 1875, as this advert shows (Amoy and Takao are today's Xiamen and Kaohsiung):

1875 Douglas Lapraik & Co. advert

They must have done well, as in 1898 a message to the Japanese consul in Xiamen noted: "The six steam ships of the Douglas Shipping Company have a monopoly of the Hong Kong, Shantou, Xiamen, Fuzhou and Taiwan shipping routes."

The Japanese were very interested in the monopoly because of the second treaty, the Treaty of Shimonoseki in 1895. It ended the First Sino-Japanese War, and one of its terms was to cede Taiwan to Japan. Now that Tamsui was under Japanese rule, they weren't impressed that a foreign line controlled shipping to and from the port. Descriptions of what happened next vary...

A blog about Tamsui's history says the Japanese forced Douglas out very directly:

After Japan took over Taiwan in 1895, the Douglas shipping rights were gradually stripped, often by decree, and eventually given to Japanese shipping companies instead.

The Ships List website describes it as purely economic competition, which eventually led to Douglas cutting its losses and leaving:

The cession of Taiwan to Japan under the Treaty of Shimonoseki in 1895 which ended the Sino-Japanese War, struck the company a heavy blow. Osaka Shosen Kaisha (OSK) placed several steamers on the Amoy Tansui Line and the Douglas Steamship Company was forced to cut down freight rates. Also, OSK opened several other lines and began to compete on the China coast with Douglas Steamship Company and the company incurred severe losses.

The book at the information desk describes a combination of those two stories that sounds most likely: The Japanese government ordered the Osaka Merchant Shipping Company ((we know them as OSK)) to start running services in competition with Douglas, and at the same time subsidised OSK so they could undercut Douglas's rates. So the Japanese government didn't directly prohibit the Douglas ships from sailing into Tamsui, but made it clear they'd lose money if they did.

That same book writes:

After the Japanese came to power in Taiwan, Douglas Lapraik & Co. (the Douglas Steamship Company) abandoned all of its Taiwan routes by 1902, ending more than 30 years of business in Taiwan. However, the company continued to operate its South China routes.

However it looks as though they struggled on for at least another year or two, as in 1903 the competition was still underway:

ACCORDING to a Japan exchange the O.S.K. and the Douglas Steamship Co. are flghting tooth and nail for the Hongkong Tamsui trade.
Page 6 of the Hong Kong Telegraph, 21st July 1903.

In any case, Douglas Lapraik & Co.'s days at Tamsui were numbered.

That's enough about Douglas for now - time to head on to the Fort. (But if you're visiting make sure you pick up a free "Map + Heritage Guide" from the information desk first. It has more information about the history of the area than the map they give out at the station.)

Tamsui map #2

 

Fort San Domingo (really Fort Antonio!)

Fort Antonio

Odd choice of name - all the maps show the site as Fort San Domingo. Yes, the Spanish built a fort here in 1628 and named it Fort San Domingo. But, no trace of it remains today! Instead the red building seen above is Fort Antonio, built by the Dutch in 1646.

I was happy to see such an old building with a European connection, and as a bonus it has a direct connection to the UK, as it housed the British Consulate for over a century. The British first rented it for their consulate in 1863, the year after Tamsui was opened to foreign trade.

Inside the fort you'll still find traces of consulate use, including the safe where the consul's marmite, digestives, and other valuables were kept:

Safe

And an incinerator for burning top secret documents.

Incinerator

Unlike Douglas Lapraik & Co., the consulate wasn't immediately affected when the Japanese took control of Taiwan. December 1941 changed all that, when Japan declared war on Britain and the consulate was closed. I imagine the incinerator saw some hurried use on that day.

The consulate re-opened in 1947, and continued in use until Britain upgraded its consul & consulate in Beijing to an ambassador & embassy. One of the conditions of the deal was that Britain would close its consulates in Taiwan, so in 1972 the consulate finally closed for good.

You can read all this and more as you walk around the fort, as there are lots of good information boards, and here they are all tri-lingual.

The fort is a sturdy building, but not very comfortable to live in. So in 1891 they built the consul's red-brick residence next door:

Fort Antonio & Consul's residence
Consul's residence, Tamsui

The design includes plenty of roses and thistles as a reminder of home:

British consul's residence at Tamsui
British consul's residence at Tamsui
British consul's residence at Tamsui
British consul's residence at Tamsui

The brickwork also includes a "VR" (Victoria Regina) from when the residence was built in 1891. (Hong Kong Post Office please take note!)

British consul's residence at Tamsui

 

Mr Mackay's legacy

As you step out from the consulate grounds, you'll see several more old buildings nearby. They trace their roots to George Leslie Mackay, a Presbyterian missionary who came to Taiwan in 1871 and founded churches, schools, and a hospital. The first of those schools you'll see is Oxford College:

Oxford College at Tamsui

And the Tamsui Girls School is just a short distance away:

Tamsui Girl's School

Today the Oxford College name would seem like a bit of clever marketing, but the origin of the name was much more straightforward. Mackay was born in Oxford County, Canada, and he raised funds to build the college on a visit home in the early 1880s. Oxford County's contributions were commemorated in the college name.

We walked back downhill to the seafront, then on til we reached Fisherman's Wharf. We'd had enough walking by then, so we caught a ferry back to Tamsui and the MRT station. Our last photo from Tamsui shows the fort and consul's residence, seen from the ferry:

Fort Antonio & British consul's residence at Tamsui

Getting here is easy, just catch the red MRT line north and Tamsui is the end of the line. The area near the station is a popular tourist spot, and the crowded streets are full of shops selling food and souvenirs. But persevere and at about the distance from the station where you can't squeeze in another fried snack or giant ice-cream cone, the crowds thin. The walk from Douglas Lapraik & Co. onwards wasn't busy at all.

More things to see in Taipei? Thomas notes there are still parts of the old Taipei walled city to be seen. And if you have time, Moddsey recommends a day trip to Kinmen (Quemoy) to view the military history of the place (see photos of Kinmen). I also spotted this pillbox at South Village 44, a short walk away from Taipei 101:

Pillbox in Taipei
Pillbox in Taipei

If you spot any interesting historical sites on side trips from Hong Kong, please let us know!

Regards,

David

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c.1908 Pedder Street

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c.1908 Pedder Street

 

Where: The lamps on the building show the word "Hotel".

Hotel lamp

They light up the Hong Kong Hotel [1], so we're looking north along Pedder Street from near the junction with Queen's Road. The curved building in the distance was the Hotel Mansions building, later called the Union Building [2]. At this time it housed an extension of the Hong Kong Hotel.

 

Who: It's a fascinating scene, with so many people coming and going. A few caught my eye...

Shiny hair

Long before supermarkets were filled with shelves of shampoos and conditioners, these ladies have the secret of shiny hair all worked out!

To the right, a rickshaw puller is heading towards us. With the street as busy as this, I wonder how he cleared a path. Would he have a bell to ring, or just shout out a warning?

Rickshaw puller

Next a selection of hats, a couple of broad-rim workmen's hats on the men walking away, and a bowler-hatted businessman heading our way.

Hats

Along the kerb are several rickshaws and sedan chairs, waiting for customers from the hotel. Over on the right these two are comparing notes about the day's business:

Rickshaw & sedan chair

The other "who" in any photo is the person who first owned the photo. This one has an interesting story, which we'll piece together as we see other photos they bought. The first clue comes from the back of the photo, where they wrote:

Back of photo

They've got their street names muddled up, showing they're very recent arrivals.

The Water Supplies Department are about to damage the historic Pillbox #2 at Jardines Lookout. Please sign the petition to stop this.

 

When: The Chinese men in the photo are still wearing their hair in a queue, dating the photo to 1911 or earlier.

Queue

Not much earlier though, as the Hotel Mansions building was only finished a few years before in 1905.

If you squint through the trees you can make out the name of one of the shops in Hotel Mansions:

Kruse

This was Kruse & Co., the tobacconists [3]. I'd hoped they would help us narrow down the dates, but they moved in when the building opened, so no luck there.

The last clue I can spot is the hoarding and scaffolding on the left side of Pedder Street, surrounding a building site that belonged to Jardine, Matheson & Co. That does help, as we know they pulled down their old offices in 1907 [4], and the new building was completed in 1909 [5]. I'll split the difference and date this photo to 1908.

Prints of this and many other old Hong Kong photos are available to order.

Photo ID: A436

References:

  1. The Hong Kong Hotel
  2. Mansions Building / Union Building
  3. Kruse & Co.
  4. Duddell's / Hunt & Co. / Jardine, Matheson & Co.- ML 100 [1855-1907]
  5. Jardine House (2nd generation) [1909-c.1955]

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1919-20: Photos from Warren Swire's third visit to Hong Kong

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Warren Swire’s third visit was delayed by the First World War. He had joined a territorial army unit in 1907 (the Royal Buckinghamshire Hussars), and so was mobilized with them in 1914. He served in Egypt until 1916, then returned to the UK to work in control of shipping, a fitting use for his skills [1]. By 1919 he’d returned to the commercial world, and was back in Hong Kong to check on the company’s operations.

Before we look at his photos, what was the company’s place in Hong Kong at that time? The 1920 Juror’s list gives us an idea of its significance: of the 1,546 jurors listed, 132 or roughly 1 in 12 worked for either Taikoo Dockyard & Engineering (TD&E) or the Taikoo Sugar Refinery (TSR).

 

Taikoo Sugar Refinery

We’ve seen the Dockyard in photos from his earlier visits, but this time he also took photos of the Sugar Refinery. The first photo is titled “H.K. TSR Village”, and shows some of the workers’ housing. 

 

Taikoo Sugar Refinery Village

 

You can see the tram tracks running along King’s Road at the left. If you look closely, you’ll see that Quarry Bay only had a single track service at this time. Just where the tram lines disappear from view there’s a junction and road running off to the left. That is Mount Parker Road.

He also took photos of the Sugar Refinery’s recreation club, and the houses for its European staff:

 

Taikoo Sugar Refinery Recreation Club

 

Taikoo Sugar Refinery Foreign Houses

 

A look down the list of Taikoo Sugar Refinery men on the jurors’ list gives an idea of who lived there. It includes 10 assistants, 3 chemists, a chief engineer, 2 clerks, a draughtsman, 5 engineers, 4 foremen, a manager, 3 pansmen, a storekeeper, 7 sugar boilers, 3 timekeepers and a wharfinger.

Most of the titles are self-explanatory, but the “pansman” was a new one to me. It’s a skilled job, specific to the sugar refining industry. The pansman operates the vacuum pans that form the sugar crystals from the sugar liquor.

The list also shows three timekeepers from the Sugar Refinery. The Dockyard had seven! In this photo, titled “TD& E. Co Watchmen & Gatehouse”, I think we get a glimpse of the timekeeper’s domain. The row of gates on the right look like the passages where the workers entered and exited the dockyard, clocking in and out each time.

 

Taikoo Dockyard and Engineering Company Gatehouse

 

North Point Store

Another building we see for the first time is their North Point Store:

 

North Point Store

 

Inside everything looks very clean and tidy:

 

Inside the North Point Store

 

Not so clean and tidy outside though, as it was where they kept the company’s coal:

 

North Point Store

 

At least some of that coal would have ended up here at the “TD& E. Co Gas Plant & Power House”:

 

Taikoo Dockyard and Engineering Company Gas Plant and Power House

 

We take the supply of electricity for granted now, but in 1920 you’d find major operations like Taikoo, the Tramways, or the Naval Dockyard each ran their own power station.

The Taikoo companies also had to maintain their own water supplies, and built several dams around the area. Most were in the valley behind Quarry Bay but there was also Braemar Reservoir, further west on the hillside above North Point. Here Warren is looking out across Braemar Reservoir towards Kowloon.

 

View over Braemar Reservoir

 

Holts Wharf

The southern tip of Kowloon, just out of sight on the left of the previous photo, was a regular destination for Warren. He was heading to Holt’s Wharf

 

Holts Wharf back

 

In this view he’s looking south towards the Holt’s Wharf buildings. The steep hill on the right is still there today, with Chatham Road running round its base. On the left, behind the fence, is the Kowloon-Canton Railway, heading towards its terminus at Tsim Sha Tsui.

The railway is clearer to see in this view facing the opposite direction, taken from a rooftop at the Wharf.

 

Holts Wharf No. 6

 


He also took a photo that he titled “Holts Wharf Foreign Quarters”:

Foreigners' houses and rickshaws, Holts Wharf, Hong Kong

I don’t recognize this building, but the 1920 Juror’s List gives one possibility. It notes the Wharf Manager was a Mr Charles Butler Riggs, living at Glenthoral on Kimberley Road in Tsim Sha Tsui.

 

Hong Kong University

Returning to the island, Warren checked how the finished Hong Kong University looked. Swires were one of the donors that helped fund its construction, but when he’d taken photos on his previous visit the Main Building was still being built. On this visit it was all finished. Well, almost - it would be another ten years before a clock was finally installed in that clocktower! 
 

Hong Kong University

 

All those students need somewhere to live. This photo shows the three halls of residence, Lugard, Eliot, and May Halls, on the eastern slopes of the campus. Only May and Eliot are still standing today.

 

University Halls

 

Leisure

Finally, it wasn’t all work. His last photo shows a visit to the racecourse in Happy Valley. His visits were timed to catch the winter months, and from the way they’re wrapped up this must have been the coldest day of the year!

Happy Valley Racecourse

 

(This post first appeared on the Visualising China Blog.)


Further reading

See photos from Warren Swire's other visits to Hong Kong:

The full Warren Swire Collection covers the first four decades of the twentieth century, and can be viewed online at the Historical Photos of China website.

 

References

  1. Warren Swire's activities in the First World War were kindly provided by Matthew Edmondson at the Swire Archives. He quotes the original source as Warren Swire’s entry in the Oxford Dictionary of National Biography. 

 

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Going Home: The Baglin – Shelley photographs

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Mother & Daughter (2)

Back in 2014 I posted the photo shown above, and wrote:

“I bought a collection of photos recently, hoping they'd have lots of views of Hong Kong. Instead they're almost all photos of people, that really belong in a family album. I'd rather see them back with the family, so I'm hoping one of Gwulo's readers can help put them in touch.”

The post generated a lot of interest on Gwulo and Facebook, and we identified the mother and daughter as Ms Baglin and her daughter Marie. Readers remembered Marie was also known as Vickie and that she married Tony Shelley, a Hong Kong policeman.

Several people said they knew the family and would get in touch, but I never heard back. I guessed that, for their own reasons, Marie’s children didn’t want to make contact. Still, I hoped another relative would be searching the internet for family information, find the page and get in touch.

That’s where we left the story, til a few weeks ago when an email arrived from Jean Louis Lecoeur in France. He included this photo:

Senora Baglin and her daughters

It was an exact match for one I’d posted in the original article!

Baglin-Dubois family

Over to Jean Louis:

Bonjour,

I am writing from France. I just discovered your site about Old Hong Kong and especially the part regarding the Baglin family pictures.

The "top right young lady" is Genevieve Baglin. She was my aunt, born in 1904 in Colombes (near Paris, France). She died on August 12th 1982 in Newcastle upon Tyne (GB) where she lived.

Formerly she lived in Hong Kong from 1935 to 1950, she had a daughter with her partner Yoc Ma, a Chinese man she met in Paris.

This daughter was Marie Anne Victoria Baglin who lived in USA Arizona, she died in 2013. She had two children with Anthony Shelley, but they are not much interested by their family story.

Attached are some documents (in French, of course) illustrating the above remarks and much more. They are from a huge CD-Rom I made in year 2000, where I gathered all the documents about my genealogy.

On a picture you can see Ivana, my mother. So, you can understand my extreme interest in the family album you discovered.

As the latest posts on your site are dated 2014, I don’t know where you are with your request. Please tell me.

Very happy and surprised to have found your site.

Best regards.
Jean Louis LECOEUR

I've been exchanging emails with Jean Louis since, and he has sent more information about these two ladies’ lives. I’ve included extracts below, adding my comments in italics along with the photos I’d posted previously.


Genevieve Pauline Baglin

Genevieve Pauline Baglin was born on July 18, 1904 in Colombes, a suburb of Paris in France.

Her first two years were spent in France, before the family moved to Durham in England in 1906. They moved several times, ending up in Sheffield. While in England she and her sister Helen attended a school run by nuns.

That explains the note on the back of this photo, “Taken one Summer’s day in Sheffield”:

Baglin-Dubois family

In 1920, her mother Senora left her husband: she could not stand his bad temper or his stinginess any more. Mother, sons and daughters returned to Paris, with Genevieve aged 16 years old and speaking French with a charming accent. They lived in their house La Garenne Colombes. 

Senora strived to continue to offer his daughters the quality education they received in England, and enrolled them in Sainte Genevieve Institution in Asnieres. However their father cut funding. 

Genevieve, like her sisters, had only learned watercolor and piano, But she found work in Haute Couture, training in sewing on the job. She mastered all aspects, including drawing, for which she had a natural gift like all the family. She found work in various fashion houses of Paris as a saleswoman speaking English.

Then came the 1929 crash, and for some time she was a saleswoman in one of the first "Prisunic" (cheap chain stores) which opened in Paris.

In the 1920s, she was a young girl very lively, very happy, very warm. Brunette with dark brown eyes, she was soon surrounded by boys, especially students, particularly Asians coming to France to complete their education in the Parisian faculties, Montparnasse Boulevard and University City. At that time, after the carnage of the Great War, there was a shortage of young men in France. However it was a time when foreigners moved to Paris, attracted by the atmosphere of the Roaring Twenties.

Genevieve in Paris in the 1920s:

Ms. Baglin in Europe

Genevieve met one of these foreigners, Yoc Ma. He was a salesman, selling delicate embroideries made in China by orphans gathered by nuns.

In this photo, Yoc Ma (centre) is shown standing at the gateway to the Po Leung Kuk orphanage in Hong Kong. Perhaps they were one of his suppliers?

Men on steps

Genevieve was tired of sewing wedding dresses for her friends and was persuaded by Yoc Ma to follow him in Hong Kong. In 1936 she embarked on the ship "Champollion" for the five week voyage to Hong Kong. There she earned her living as a seamstress and opened a French fashion house. Her letters to her French nephews arrived bearing exotic stamps with images of British sovereigns.

Genevieve in Hong Kong in 1936, with the South China Athletic Association in the background:

House opposite HK Sports Ground

In 1937, she gave Yoc Ma a pretty little daughter: Marie Anne Victoria.

Photos of Marie Anne Victoria with her father, and her mother:

Father & daughter ??

 

Mother & daughter

War came to Hong Kong, and it was invaded by Japanese troops. As a French citizen, she was not considered an enemy of Japan, and so was not interned. However, she was asked to record propaganda messages for the Japanese radio to broadcast to French Indochina. (We think she could not say "no" to the Japanese…, but we don't have any evidence.)

Several photos show Marie on the balcony of a house on Leighton Road. Looking at her age, this is where the family lived during the war years:

 

Balcony 2

 

Balcony

 

Balcony 3

Read more of Jean Louis's account of Genevieve's life.

If you can spare 30 minutes, help us record Hong Kong's history by typing up a page of the 1921 Juror's List.

Marie Anne Victoria Baglin

As a young girl she was called Marie-Anne or “Fifi”, but in later years she was known as Vickie.
She married Anthony Shelley, in 1954, when she was aged 17. They had two children together.

Tony and Vickie:

Marie and Tony Shelley

In Hong Kong she worked in cinema. Fluent in Chinese, English and French, she used her language skills to provide translation and administrative services to French film crews who worked in Hong Kong.

Anthony and Vickie moved to Phoenix, Arizona. There they bought apartments, renovated and then re-sold. Later Vickie worked as a realtor in a large real estate agency.

She died in June 2013, at home in Scottsdale (Az), USA.

Read more of Jean Louis's account of Vickie's life.


Many thanks to Jean Louis for getting in touch and sharing his research with us. I posted the photographs to him on Thursday, so they'll be back with home with family in the next few days.

If you can add any memories of Genevieve or Marie-Anne / Vickie, we’d love to hear from you.

Best regards, David

Gwulo meetup: join us for lunch on Monday, 14th November.

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City Hall, Coolies, and the Peak Tram

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City Hall

A few weeks back we saw a view of Pedder Street, one of a set of four photos. Today we'll look at the other three, starting with this view of the old City Hall [1] and Dent's fountain [2].

City Hall straddled the sites of today's Old Bank of China and HSBC buildings. The HSBC end of the building housed a theatre, the Theatre Royal [3]. You can see a couple of "TONIGHT' signs for the theatre's shows on the columns at the left:

TONIGHT

There's an interesting note on the back of the photo:

Back

So whoever bought it was performing there. Who could it have been?

19081205 HKT pg 1 A Country Girl show-CROP.jpg

One possibility is The Hongkong Amateur Dramatic Club (ADC) [4], as they put on shows there each year. The advert above was for a show in 1908, and here's a photo of them performing at the Theatre Royal in 1918:

1918 Theatre Royal, City Hall

 

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But the ADC was made up of Hong Kong residents, which rules out whoever bought these photos. Their note on the Pedder Street photo showed they were just visiting.

Here's the Pedder Street photo again:

c.1908 Pedder Street

The building site on the left gave us c.1908 as the date the photo was taken, so were there any overseas performers visiting Hong Kong at that time?

I found a mention in The China Mail for January that year [5]. They reported the opening of the "Mother Goose" pantomime at the Theatre Royal, performed by the Pollard Lilliputian Company from Australia. As the name suggests, they were a troup of child actors. I doubt any of the children would have bought these photos, but there's a chance one of the adult members of the troup would have.

Only a very slim chance though, as the other two photos in the set show we can't rely on the 1908 date. The third photo they bought is this view looking up the Peak Tram tracks.

View up the Peak Tram tracks

A couple of bridges mark the location of this photograph. First is the bridge in the foreground that carries the tram lines across Kennedy Road. It is shown by a gap in the embankment:

Kennedy Road bridge

The other is the Macdonnell Road bridge, crossing the tracks just above the tram.

If this photo was taken in 1908, I think we'd see Kingsclere [6] on the right of the photo. It was a large building on the hill between Kennedy and Macdonnell Roads, built around 1900. It is clear to see in this 1911 postcard:

Lower Peak Tram station circa 1911 from Smithsonian.jpg

Kingsclere is the large, light-coloured building above the tram, and the pink building behind it is the building to the right of the tram in the black & white photo.

One more clue that the black & white photo was an old one is the line running down the photo, starting about two thirds of the way across the top. Whoever printed the photo was using an old glass negative that had a crack in it, and it's the crack that makes that line. I guess the photo is from the 1890s.

The last photo shows two cheerful men carrying water:

"Coolies"

The handwritten note on this one just says "Coolies", so not much to go on. But remember in the 1908 photo, one of the clues to its date was this man's hairstyle:

Queue

He still had the queue and shaved forehead that identifies the photo as one taken before the 1911 revolution. At first glance, the two men in the "Coolies" photo have a full head of post-revolution hair. But looking closely at the man on the left, his hair is very short at the front and he's got a few strands of much longer hair visible at the back:

Hair

Could it be that this photo was also taken before 1911? Maybe the men in the countryside took a more relaxed "once a month whether it needs it or not" approach to shaving their foreheads?


To wrap up, these four photos came from a small set bought by a performer visiting Hong Kong. It's not clear exactly when they were bought, but certainly no earlier than 1908.

If you can spot any thing else of interest in the photos, please let us know in the comments below.

Regards, David.

References:

  1. City Hall (first generation) [1869-1936]
  2. Dent's Fountain [1864-1933]
  3. Theatre Royal
  4. The Hong Kong Amateur Dramatic Club [1860-c.1941]
  5. "MOTHER GOOSE" AT THE THEATRE ROYAL, reported on page 4 of The China Mail, 1908-01-03.
  6. Kingsclere / Kingsclere Hotel [c.1901-1923]

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Western photographers in 19th century Hong Kong

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Terry Bennett has written a three-volume history of photography in China in the nineteenth century. He has previously shared a chapter about early Chinese photographers in Hong Kong, and today he is back with two chapters about the Western photographers.

The first chapter documents the very first commercial photographers in Hong Kong, starting with Mr George West. Sadly, none of his photos are known to have survived, but his watercolours remain as evidence of his abilities:

 

HOPIC 1 Fig 7.jpg

Fig. 7. George R. West. ‘Chinese Blacksmiths. Macao,’ 1840s.
Watercolour. Caleb Cushing Papers, Manuscript Division,
Library of Congress.

 

West sailed to China in 1843 as part of Caleb Cushing’s diplomatic mission from America. He was given the title "Artist to the Expedition".

After China and America signed the Treaty of Wanghia, the diplomat's work was done. West could have sailed home with him, but instead stayed on. That decision led to him becoming the first commercial photographer in China, starting out in Canton in 1844, but moving to Hong Kong soon after:

Mr West begs leave to inform the inhabitants of Victoria that he has opened a Photographic or Daguerreotype Room in Peel Street, near Queen’s Road. His room will be open from 10 a.m. until 4 p.m. Single miniatures $3. $2 charged for each additional head in a group.
China Mail, 6th March 1845.

Sketching was his first love, so he went back in to China to continue his work. He tried his best to travel unnoticed:

... he was obliged to disguise himself and adopt the Chinese costume and habits. Having a clear olive complexion, dark eyes and hair, his transformation was complete. Securing the services of a faithful native servant, and generally affecting to be deaf and dumb, Mr West wandered for seven long years through various parts of the Chinese Empire, visiting places never before seen or known to Europeans.

But sometimes even his best precautions weren't enough:

... at one time he was sailing in the China Sea, when his vessel was attacked by pirates, and his Portuguese companions murdered. Mr West made a bold defence, and the freebooters agreed to save his life if he would yield without further resistance. The pirates then seized and stripped him of his clothing, lashed him to a sofa in the cabin of the junk, robbed him of all the money he had, cut down the boat’s sails, and threw them, with the anchors and chains, overboard, leaving the vessel to the mercy of the elements. By extraordinary exertions, with the men forming his crew, whose lives had been spared, [they] reached a place of safety. He then found himself entirely destitute of clothing, money, or any apparent means of extricating himself from his difficulties, yet he was not discouraged, nor, for one moment, turned aside from his determination to carry out his projects of illustrating Chinese life with his pencil ....

You can read more about George West's adventures and the other early Hong Kong photographers in Terry's chapter "The First Studios".

 

If you're looking for a speaker for your club or business dinner, one of Gwulo's talks about old Hong Kong could be just what you need. Click for details.

 

We re-join the story in the 1860s, with a much broader cast of photographers. They weren't as interesting as Mr West, but this time we get to see their photographs. Here are some from William P. Floyd, the most prolific of the group:

 

HOPIC 2 Fig 7.jpg

Fig. 1.7. William P. Floyd. ‘Victoria Photographic Gallery,’ c.1867.
Floyd’s studio at 62 Queen’s Road Central, Hong Kong.
Royal Asiatic Society, London. 

 

 

HOPIC 2 Fig 8.jpg

Fig. 1.8. William P. Floyd. ‘Tai Ping Shan, Hong Kong –
Chinese quarter,’ c.1868. Author’s Collection.

 

 

HOPIC 2 Fig 9.jpg

Fig. 1.9. William P. Floyd. ‘Water Fall & The Bridge, East Point,’
c.1868. Numbered ‘71’ in the caption. Author’s Collection.

 

HOPIC 2 Fig 10.jpg

Fig. 1.10. William P. Floyd. ‘Waterfall Bay, Hong Kong,’ c.1868.
Author’s Collection.

 

HOPIC 2 Fig 11.jpg

Fig. 1.11. William P. Floyd. ‘Melchers & Co’s House,’ Hong Kong,
c.1868. Signed in the negative and numbered ‘11’ on the
photographer’s printed label. Author’s Collection.

 

To see more photos from Floyd and his contemporaries, continue reading Terry's chapter "Hong Kong Studios".

Many thanks to Terry and his publisher, Bernard Quaritch, for allowing us to see his work here on Gwulo.

Readers ask for information (photos, facts, memories, etc.) about:

New on Gwulo.com this week:

1951 View from the Peak over Central to Kowloon

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1951 View from the Peak over Central to Kowloon

 

When: The date for this photo comes from the Bank of China building [1] :

gwulo A430 Bank of China.jpg

The Bank building was finished in November 1951, and here it's nearly done, so this photo was taken sometime in 1951.

 

Who: The light-coloured patches in the foreground are the tennis courts at the Ladies Recreation Club (LRC) [2]. Their swimming pool looks full, and the umbrellas are out around the pool, so I'll narrow the photo's date down to summer 1951:

gwulo-A430 LRC+pool.jpg

Though we can't make out any individuals, many children who grew up in Hong Kong learned to swim in that pool, taught by Billy Tingle [3].

 

Looking for a Christmas gift? Prints of this photo, and of many other photos of old Hong Kong are available to buy from Gwulo's catalogue.

 

Where: The LRC is next to Old Peak Road, seen climbing up the hill from the top of this cropped section:

gwulo-A430 Bellevue.jpg

The flat area on the left housed a couple of generations of buildings with very similar names. This photo shows Queen's Garden [4], finished just a couple of years before this photo was taken.

A couple of earlier views shows how the area has changed over the years. 

gwulo-BA059A Bellevue.jpg

This was taken around 1906. The buildings on the left of this photo were the original Queen's Gardens [5], ten semi-detached houses, or five buildings in all.

Finally, a view of the same area from c.1886, when the slopes were still covered in trees:

Gwulo-A002-Bellevue.jpg

Before we leave this view, look at the top-right corner of all three crops and you'll see the same three-chimneyed building appears in each. I believe that long-lived building was Bellevue [6], but hopefully one of our mid-levels experts will let me know if I'm wrong.

Looking up from Queen's Garden we can see the Roman Catholic cathedral [7] :

gwulo-A430 RC Cathedral.jpg

We wouldn't see it in a modern photo - it's still there but hidden from sight by the surrounding high-rises!

Many of the buildings in that area were connected to the Roman Catholic church. eg the tall building on the left, overlooking the cathedral, housed an expansion of the growing Wah Yan school, which was run by the Jesuits. The building started out as St. Joseph's Mansion [8], built as residential accommodation and popular with the Portuguese community. Later it housed Wah Yan School, and later still it was renamed to become the Caritas Valtorta House, named after one of Hong Kong's Roman Catholic bishops [9].

The buildings with the dark roofs at the top of this crop had a much more secular use. They were part of the Central Police Station [10].

 

What: The photographer chose a day with beautifully clear skies, so we also get to see the changes underway over in Kowloon.

Up until then, the built-up areas followed the old coastline, and in particular the land between Nathan Road and the western shore. That's the area shown here:

gwulo-A430 West Kowloon.jpg

Tsim Sha Tsui was already built up, and there had also been a significant amount of development at Hung Hom, connected with the dockyard and the other industries in that area:

gwulo-A430 TST - Hung Hom.jpg

But the photo shows the centre of Kowlooon was still quite empty, just barren, rocky hillsides. (To see just how empty it was, compare a 1952 map of the area with a modern satellite view: 1952 map / 50-50 / modern satellite view.)

By 1951 when this photo was taken, the need for land meant buildings were already starting to appear on the hills:

gwulo-A430 Kowloon tower blocks.jpg

The towers in the foreground were the King's Park Government Quarters [11], while those in the background were quarters for HSBC's employees [12].

However the HSBC quarters wouldn't survive the decade. When Kai Tak's new runway was built out into the harbour, the buildings were in the way of the new flight path and had to be demolished.


If you can share any memories of the places mentioned, or you spot anything else of interest, please let us know in the comments below.

Regards, David

Gwulo photo ID: A430

References:

  1. Old Bank of China Building [1951- ]
  2. Ladies Recreation Club (LRC) [1883- ]
  3. William Ewart TINGLE (aka Billy) [1900-1977]
  4. Queen's Garden [1949-????]
  5. Queen's Gardens [1889-1937]
  6. Belle Vue (or Bellevue) [????-????]
  7. Roman Catholic Cathedral (2nd & current location) [1888- ]
  8. St. Joseph's Mansion / Caritas Valtorta House [????-????]
  9. Enrico Pascal VALTORTA [1883-1951]
  10. Central Police Station [????- ]
  11. King's Park Government Quarters [????-????]
  12. HSBC tower blocks at Nga Tsin Wai Rd [????-c.1957]

Readers ask for information (photos, facts, memories, etc.) about:

 

New on Gwulo.com this week:

7, 10, or 13 years old? A brief history of Gwulo

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10

I had it in my head that this year is the tenth anniversary of Gwulo, but it turns out to be both older and younger than that.

 

2002 - The beginning: do you remember Gwulo's ancestor, Batgung.com ?

Way back in 2002, two years before Facebook appeared, blogs were the hot topic on the internet.

I was talking with a friend about blogs, and we thought it would be fun to start one about expat life in Hong Kong, so Batgung was born. Here's how it looked on 11th September, 2002. You'll see that fancy visual design wasn't (and still isn't!) a strongpoint:

Batgung.com sceen capture 11 Sep 2002.jpg

(This screenshot comes from the Wayback Machine, a great way to see how websites have changed over the years.)

We posted occasional short articles to the site, and there was also a discussion board where visitors could post messages.

 

2004 - There's an interest in Hong Kong's history

Some of the early messages on that discussion board were the first signs of what Gwulo would become. Here are the oldest four with a history theme, from thirteen years ago:

They also show the leisurely pace of posting at that time. Only 26 messages were posted to the site in those four months - less than two per week!

 

2005 - Can you say "Content Management System" ?

By 2005 the layout had changed to include photos:

Batgung.com sceen capture 24 Mar 2005.jpg

But all the text and photos still had to be added to the site manually. That was my job so, being lazy, I started looking for an easier way. A content management system (CMS) promised to allow us both to add new articles, etc, and without having to understand HTML / FTP / and all the other jargon. I chose the open-source Drupal CMS, and we're still using Drupal today.

Here's how the site looked at the end of the year, after switching to Drupal. Love those orange links!

Batgung.com sceen capture 28 Jan 2006.jpg

 

2006 - Photos!

The switch to Drupal made it much easier to add photos to the site. This is the first of the new photos, a view into an Air Raid Precautions tunnel:

Looking in to Portal 11

I used it on the page "Air-raid shelters under Kowloon Park", written in February 2006. It's the page I had in mind when I was thinking of Gwulo being ten years old.

It wasn't the first post with photos, or the first post about historic sites - we already had write-ups of the visits to Shing Mun redoubt from 2003, and Jubilee Battery from 2004. But those had been visits to places we'd read about in books. The air raid tunnel post was the start of finding out more for ourselves.

Another important change happened in 2006. It started when Greg Fripp sent in this photo:

Aberdeen

In the comments I wrote:

Photo courtesy of Greg Fripp. Thanks to reader moddsey for writing in and identifying this photo: "[This photo was] taken from the Aberdeen Praya Road with the floating restaurant in the background. I attach a similar photo for comparison."

This was the beginning of readers submitting photos to the website. In particular, moddsey has been a prolific contributor to the site, and I'm very pleased to say he continues to be just as active today.

As I talk about how the site has changed over the years, it is easiest to point to new features and changes in its appearance. But the most satisfying changes have been to see how the community of regular Gwuloers has grown, and how much help and knowledge has been shared over the years.

 

2008 - A Place for everything, and everything in its Place

Up til then, every page on the site was either an Article, a Photo, or a message in the Forum (Drupal's version of a discussion board).

Enter the "Place", a special type of page to describe a building or other location in Hong Kong. By linking Photos and Places, it became easier to see a photo you liked, then find other, related photos. eg let's say you see this 1950s photo of the racecourse at Happy Valley:

Happy Valley

If you want more you can click the link to see the Place page for the Happy Valley Racecourse, and then click the "Photos" tab to see all the photos we have that show that Place. (If you click that last link you'll see Happy Valley has been a popular subject for photos over the years!)

 

2009 - The "Gwulo" name, and a site of its own

In March 2009 I asked Batgung's readers, "Shall we build a catalogue of Hong Kong's history?"

The ideas I jotted down then are still the guidelines I'm following today:

  • Build a framework that different contributors can plug their information into.
  • Encourage connections between pages so visitors are led to related information.

In the comments on that page, contributor gweipo raised one of the problems we faced:

To be honest i think that your site has become 2 things, one is the present HK with tips for newcomers and oldies on living here, surviving and thriving here.  And then delving into the past.

The content and audience for the present HK & past HK were quite different, and it became clear that they'd do better on separate websites.

Seven years ago in June 2009 I bought the domain name Gwulo.com, and soon after that the new site was launched. I don't remember the exact day the Gwulo website went live, but the Wayback Machine's earliest copy is from July 6, 2009: 

Gwulo.com sceen capture 6 Jul 2009.jpg

Later that year we added the "Person" type of page. The first person to have their own page was Mr Billy Tingle. That page has since been viewed over 12,000 times, and the most recent comment was added just last week.

People, Places, Pictures and Stories continue to be the core of the site.

 

2010 - Jurors Lists

Transcription - typing up the contents of old scanned documents - is not glamorous work. But the results make great resources for people researching Hong Kong's history.

In 2010 we began the long-term project to transcribe all lucky 88 years of Hong Kong's Jurors Lists, covering years 1854-1941. They show the obvious information of where a man worked and lived, but they also show changing patterns of nationalities and occupations, when roads and districts were developed, etc.

We've completed 34 years already, so we're closing in on the half way point.

If you can spare half an hour to type up a page, we're currently working on the list for 1922. There are thirty pages in a list, and well over a thousand subscribers to Gwulo's newsletters. If we each type up one page we'd finish all 88 years in no time!

 

2012 - Wartime Diaries

December 2011 was the 70th anniversary of the Japanese invasion of Hong Kong. I was thinking about how to present memories of that time in a different way, and that's when the Wartime Diaries project began. We'd take several diaries from 1941-1945, and slice them all up into their daily entries. Then readers could sign up to receive a daily email that shows them all that day's diary entries from seventy years ago. They'd follow the diarists from the declaration of war, through the fighting and the long occupation, to eventual liberation.

The first group signed up in January 2012, and most continued on until the last messages in late 2015. Each December since then, we've started again from December 1941. In a few days' time the sixth cycle will begin, with the new group of subscribers following events from 75 years ago.

Although this project is not as widely used as other parts of the site, it is the part of Gwulo I am proudest of:

  • Many of the subscribers have a family connection to wartime Hong Kong, and find it helps them understand what their relatives experienced. The best example of that is the story of how R E Jones's diary was reunited with his family.
  • The project has been a great example of many people contributing work and material to make it a success. Thanks to everyone who has helped, with special thanks to Barbara Anslow for contributing her diaries and sharing her memories of Stanley Camp, and Brian Edgar for adding his research to give readers a broader picture of the events described in the diaries.
  • It's an example of using technology to present history in a way that's different from a traditional printed book. Getting a small daily dose of information over the three years and eight months is a different experience than sitting down to read a book over a weekend. And a typical day's entries have several links to additional information, encouraging readers to learn more about the people and events who are mentioned.

 

2013 - Gwulo's most popular page, drum roll please...

At the start of 2013, Mike Cussans uploaded over one hundred family photos of Hong Kong in the 1960s and 70s. Though we didn't realise it at the time, he had created Gwulo's most popular page. So far it has been viewed over 45,000 times!

Here are a few samples:

Central-HSBC
Central-HSBC, by mike

 

HoManTin-Before
HoManTin-Before, by mike

 

HoManTin-After
HoManTin-After, by mike

 

DBS School
DBS School, by mike

 

Kowloon City&KaiTak
Kowloon City & Kai Tak, by mike

 

You can see the full collection of Mike's photos here.

 

Have you got any photos of old Hong Kong you can share with us? Here's how to upload a photo to Gwulo. I can't promise they'll be seen 45,000 times, but I can promise we'll enjoy seeing them.

 

2014 - The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly

As the title suggests, 2014 was a mixed year.

The "Ugly", was definitely the upgrade, moving the website onto the latest version of Drupal. I'd tried and failed the previous year, but after several months work, 2014 was the year we finally moved to Drupal version 7, and the website you're looking at now.

The "Bad" was an example of a little knowledge being a dangerous thing. As part of my ongoing battle against spammers, I thought I'd found a clever trick to keep them at bay. Except I noticed that we were getting less and less people visiting the site, and in particular visitors from Google search were drying up. I finally worked out my "keep spammers away" had also kept all of Google's spiders away, making the site invisible to Google search. Ouch! It took well over a year for our visitor figures to recover from that.

It wasn't all bad though, as 2014 was also the year we won the SCMP's "Spirit of Hong Kong Award", for Heritage Preservation:

Spirit of Hong Kong Awards

 

2015 - 20,000 pages and still growing

Some time in 2015 the site passed 20,000 pages. Now a page can be just a single question or photo, but it can also be a long article with many comments. However you look at it, we've built a significant resource for people interested in Hong Kong's history, and it continues to grow.

That's good to remember if I'm having one of those occasional down days about running Gwulo.

I also think of Carl Smith and his collection of index cards. Can you imagine the day he started? I guess he'd have finished up with a handful of cards. Even after the first year there would have just been a few hundred cards, and the cards would have been more blank space than information. It must have been tempting to stop, and I'm sure people told him he was wasting his time. But he kept at it, until his collection ended up with almost 140,000 double-sided cards. His work will help researchers far in to the future.

 

2016 - Maps and more

I'll do a round-up of the year at the end of the month, but one of the big enhancements this year has been to improve the support for maps on the site. I do like maps! You can see how the maps work in this short video.


 

Thank you to everyone who has been part of the first ten (or seven or thirteen!) years of Gwulo, I hope you'll stay around for the next instalment.

If you've got any questions about Gwulo, please leave a comment below and I'll be happy to answer. And if you'd like to indulge in a bit of navel-gazing, please let me know your ideas for what you'd like to see from Gwulo in the next ten years.

Regards, David

Readers ask for information (photos, facts, memories, etc.) about:

 

New on Gwulo.com this week:

75 years ago: Hong Kong's wartime diaries

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December, 1941.

75 years ago tensions were high as war with Japan seemed inevitable. On December 8th, those fears were confirmed when Japanese planes attacked Kai Tak, and Japanese soldiers crossed the border into the New Territories. The fighting continued until the British surrendered on Christmas Day.

The end of the fighting marked the beginning of the Japanese occupation, a time of great hardship for Hong Kong's residents. They would have to endure for three years and eight months, until the Japanese surrendered in August 1945, and Hong Kong was liberated shortly afterwards.

What was it like?

Let the people who lived through these times tell you themselves.

We've collected several wartime diaries, and split them into their day-by-day accounts. Each day we send out an email message containing all the diary entries written on that day, 75 years ago.

How to sign up to receive the daily messages?

Please click here to subscribe.

You'll see another screen that asks for your email address. Once you've completed that screen, you'll be sent an email message, asking you to confirm your subscription. Click the link in that message and your subscription is activated. Then each day you'll receive an email message with today's diary entries.

It's free of charge, your details stay private, and you can unsubscribe at any time.

What do the daily messages look like?

Here are sample extracts from the messages you'll receive:

  • 30 Nov 1941: "Topper says we are as near war now as we have ever been, that Japan with her militarist Govt. can't very well back down now."
     
  • 1 Dec 1941: "Government advising further evacuation.  Only hope seems to be that Japs now say they will keep on talks with USA in hope that USA will change viewpoint - that isn't thought likely."
     
  • 7 Dec 1941: "There must be something in the wind, G.H.Q. staff are preparing to move into Battle HQ, a huge underground structure just behind the Garrison Sgts. Mess."
Extract from Barbara Anslow's Diary
Extract from Barbara Anslow's Diary: "war had been declared"
  • 8 Dec 1941: "I started my birthday with a war. Kowloon bombed about 8AM."
     
  • 10 Dec 1941: "Sid has been wounded.  Bullet through shoulder.  He told Hospital to phone Mum at the Jockey Club and she went to see him."
     
  • 13 Dec 1941: "We hear rumours that the Mainland is being evacuated and that the Royal Scots, Middlesex Regt. and the Indian Regts. are fighting a rearguard action back to Kowloon."
     
  • 14 - 15 Dec 1941: "Raids most of daylight hours, and shelling day and night.
    Central Police Station bombed badly in afternoon, several killed.  Felt the concussion even in the tunnel."
     
  • 16 Dec 1941: "The 9.2 guns at Stanley and Mount Davis have been firing salvoes all day and all through the night, the noise is deafening. It keeps me awake most of the night so I was up at 4.30a.m. and got quite a bit of paperwork completed working behind a blacked out screen."
     
  • 17 Dec 1941: "What a contrast from a week ago. Plenty of signs of bombing and shelling. Damaged buildings, wrecked cars and lorries everywhere. The tramline wires are strewn across the road. Some dead bodies lie about on the roadways and not a living soul in sight."
     
  • 19 Dec 1941: "Hammond and Tuck stand guard outside while Kingsford and I and the Naval man enter the house. We find about 15 people wounded, mostly Naval men, some civilians, and two women, one a Chinese shot through the chest, the other a European was dead."
     
  • 21 Dec 1941: "The Canadians are fighting a losing battle against the Japs on Stanley Mound, and the neighbouring peaks. The Japs have superiority in numbers."
     
  • 23 Dec 1941: "We returned to the Exchange Building where Hammond, Edgar and I were joined by a Russian musician. He decided to take over the driving of the big Bedford van. We set off and ran into a series of shell explosions on the way. It was now obvious that the musician could not drive a wheelbarrow not to mind the Bedford, besides he was also shivering with fright. I tried to take over the wheel but he would not move over, and it was too dangerous to stop. However, we reached the Bakery which was up a very narrow passageway. He jammed the van in it so in the end I had to use the butt of my rifle to make him let go."
     
  • 24 Dec 1941: "8.50PM heard the rattle of tanks on Island Rd as they approached the village (Jap). 2 knocked out by anti-tank gun & hell broke loose. Everything opened up on them & the Jap troops with them who were urged on by peculiar cries from their Commander."
     
  • 25 Dec 1941: "While I was sitting on floor beside Sid, Mrs Johnson a friend who was helping the wounded, came over to us and said 'I have bad news for you - we've surrendered.' She was half-crying, and wouldn't look at us."
     
Notice from SCMP, 26 December 1941
Notice from SCMP, 26 December 1941
  • 26 Dec 1941: "Although capitulation is not so good it feels nice to know that the likelihood of being shot or blown apart is gone."
     
  • 8 Jan 1942: "Brushwood on hillsides [south] of Prison set alight today. Heard ammunition exploding."
     
  • 9 Jan 1942: Captain Tanaka, at the time Japanese head of communications, gives permission to Thomas Edgar and other bakers to start making bread for the hospitals. They open the Chinese-owned Green Dragon (Ching Loong) Bakery in Wanchai. They are also allowed to bake for the Allied civilians in the hotels and later at Stanley. Barbara Anslow's diary establishes that the bread - one slice for each internee - began to arrive on January 12.
     
  • 19 Jan 1942: "Fire opposite us in the night - very near thing.  There were just sooty sparks at first, but later the fire really got going.  All the gongs in the neighbourhood were beating as alarms, several huge tongues of fire blew over in our direction."
     
  • 21 Jan 1942: "In morning, we were given a quarter of an hour to pack and get out of the hotel, then marched down Des Voeux Road. Then boarded top-heavy Macau steamer and set out for Stanley.  It could have been lovely - such a beautiful day. Our boat too big to go right up to the jetty at Stanley, so we had to clamber over the side of the ferry on to the side of the junk - then jump into the body of the junk.  Poor Mrs Grant who weighed over 15 stone, cried from the side of the ferry that she just couldn't make the transfer, but somehow she did."

Please click here to subscribe, and start receiving daily diary entries by email.

What do current subscribers to the Wartime Diaries say?

This is the sixth year we'll run this project. Here are comments from some of the readers who subscribed last year. They are located all around the world, and have many different reasons for subscribing:

  • My father and uncle were interned in Sham Shui Po and Argyle Street camps. My grandfather, aunt and cousin were interned in Stanley camp. I have a keen interest in the history of that time.
    Once you know HK it’s fascinating to understand the flow of the battle for Hong Kong and the aftermath that extended into 3 years and 8 months of incarceration for foreign nationals of the allied cause and a very tough life for others that had to exist in perilous times with dwindling food and an oppressive occupying force.
    Glenn Smith

  • I read the emails practically daily. The suspense of what would happen and what would be shown tomorrow keeps my interest in reading the "once a day reports" everyday.
    Tai Hang Wong, Mississauga, Canada.

  • I rarely miss a day and the reason is I think is partly the scale of the information and partly the serial format. Because the description are, by definition, excerpts, they are quick to read. By reading them regularly, I have become invested in the characters.
    What has fascinated me most I think is the information that the internees are getting in camp. Some seems speculative, but they seem to be getting some reasonably accurate information on the Solomon and Libyan Campaigns. Their Eastern Front info seems a little more vague.  I like the varying sources and perspectives in the short format.
    Neil Williams

  • What keeps me interested in reading the daily diary entries is that they give me what feels like an authentic connection with the everyday lives of the people even though it feels like reading a series of telegrams. Both of my parents grew up in Hong Kong and Macau in the 20s and 30s and had already arrived in Australia while many of their school friends (Zimmern, Broadbridge, Hunt) remained in Hong Kong. These entries give me some insight into their lives during the occupation.
    The entries have acted as prompts to research diverse aspects of the history of the occupation. For example mention of hidden wireless receivers had me researching stories and more background about the people, the radios, the programs and the punishments if discovered. I am fascinated by how much information managed to flow into and around the community, especially about the progress of the war.
    Stephen Rapley, Sydney

  • My father was in Hong Kong with the RN in 1945. Myself and my dad walked around Hong Kong swapping tales for years before he died, so your reports (especially of after liberation) are of significant importance and interest to me. I relate to them in many ways. It helps me retain the link to that era. One that is personally important to me.
    Les Bird

  • I read most days, mainly from an interest in the life of Barbara and her family and the background extracts from other sources. It is different from reading a book on the subject - the emails are interesting personal experiences which may be unique to the authors.
    Jeff
  • I read the daily messages because I was born during the war in Macau where my British parents had taken refuge.  The rest of the relatives were interned in Stanley.
    Antoinette Gordon, Los Angeles

  • I read the emails every day & daily if I am at home or as soon as possible. I love military history, especially WW2, & even more so about Hong Kong having lived there twice & my father, my wife & I having all served there in the Army.
    The once a day format is clever because it takes the pace & rhythm of what it was like for those who went through it. It makes it easier to imagine what it must have been like for the captives living with the day to day of not knowing what will happen. You also can’t cheat & find out what happened out of sequence.
    It is a wonderful confirmation of the endurance & determination of people to never give up. 
    GHW

  • I read every single one. I’m interested because I was stationed in Hong Kong in 1958/60 during Regular Army Service. The best experience of my life, bar none. What a place !
    I enjoy the “once a day” format, and the messages open your eyes to things that were happening on the other side of the world during Japanese occupation and how human behaviour can “seesaw”.
    Colin Cobb.

  • I read them most days, and I look out for any mentions of Hong Kong Police. Reading these emails helps the reader to obtain a greater sense of vicarious experience.
    Andrew Hill

  • I think the daily email format is a great idea, at least I could keep reading. This part of history is something we shouldnt forget.
    Jason Ng from Hong Kong, now at Birmingham 

  • I’m reading them almost daily because I find it interesting to read diary entries from times long ago. Sometime when I’m short in time I spare them for the weekend and read all of them in a row. I personally like more to spend a minute a day in the past than to read a book that would take hours.
    Klaus Liphard

  • I read them most days, as I like to be reminded of what my family went through there. The daily email is not as daunting or time consuming as reading a book - it is so interesting and well worth the few moments to read it daily.
    Marjorie Elston, Canada

Thank you!

Thank you to the subscribers for letting me post their feedback. Also thanks to everyone who has contributed diary material to this project and helped with typing and posting the material. Finally, special thanks to Alison, Barbara, Brian and Tony, who got us started:

Are there more diaries out there?

I hope we can add more diaries, to get a broader range of viewpoints. If you know anyone who has family diaries covering Hong Kong between 1941-1945, please could you ask if they are willing to share them with us?

Thanks & regards,

David

PS That subscription link one last time - please click here to subscribe.

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